Maybe im oversimplifying this, but it doesnt seem that hard, and all the wires to change it back will still be right there where they were, im just redirecting them just before the switch, it seems like all that is really needed would be a basic wiring diagram, and maybe a multimeter or testlight. He would just have to tap into the parking lights to refeed the original switch, Seems like everything would work like factory but with a different switch, because thats all ur doing, but reusing the original for another purpose. Maybe im wrong though, i do hate electrickery, but thats how i would do it. If i blow i fuse i know something is wrong

 

electrickery you say.... I like it I'm gonna use that

that's how I'm thinkin ramsport, kinda just like swapping switches.... I'm not gonna do anything til I get ahold of a diagram to look over though, I have a lot of faith in cmckenna he usually knows what he's talkin about...


On another note, I found out today that the intermittent portion of the wipers is tied into the chime module.... I unhooked it yesterday because I hate how it dings with the door open when the keys in ACC.... makes workin on the truck with tunes on real annoying. I don't mind it for anything else, so I'm gonna look intothe wiring for that too (hint hint CPTA ) The low and high positions still worked though... So it's hooked back up atm...

 

You also know you can get rid of the horrible noise by going to your door jam switch and pulling on the trim of it with some pliers and unhooking it, after a few times you get it down.

 

but I'd still like to keep my dome light functionality :/


I'm greedy aren't I?

 

In your case, with you wanting all those options, if money permits, a programmable switching matrix would be perfect in this application. This would allow you to wire any combo that you wanted but, it's expensive and, it's very involved. It would allow any combination to be programmed.

But, for now, let's just start with the schematic and see what we are dealing with.

List out what you want in a list to start. Bullet point list is what I need in terms of options. Then, I'll check some schematics in the AM and see if I've got that part of the CKT in my library.

Let's just get the facts here vs going around in circles. We need a baseline so, let's find out what the CKT is doing for one and, what else may be sharing it as well. Then from that AND your requests, let's take a look at how to approach this.

The only thing I need is to simply pull up the drawings and note if there's any constraints or not in this case. It's always a case by case basis and, let's just get the facts and go from there and see what we've got to work with.

Your running a 98 correct?

CM

 

I found the following:

- Hot wire feeding the Fog Lamp Switch starts at FUSE No 13 5A at FUSE BLOCK

- Color: OR

-AWG: 22

- terminates: FOG LAMP SW (main feed) AND feeds the OD Illumination Lamp as well. So, if you were to unwire this, you'd immediately lose your lamp at the OD switch- I'm just getting started here. Let's see what else we've got to contend with here.

Next: Shared CKTs:

- FOG RELAY No 1:

-High Beam Indicator Driver CKT

-Right Headlamp (S121)

-High Beam (S121)

-Left Headlamp (S121)

-High Beam Indicator Lamp Driver (S121)

-Dimmer Switch High Beam Output (S153)

-Daytime Running Lamp Module

-Headlamp Switch (feeds Dimmer)

-Left Turn Signal (S106)

-Right Turn Signal (S106)

Now, without going further into this, you get the point, everything is tied into that one relay so, the reality here is there's lots of CKTs involved for just FOG RELAY No 1. This does not include all the CKTs off of FOG RELAY No 2 relay which by the way, is fed from FRNo1.

NEXT: FOG RELAY No 2 CKT

- Fog Lamp Switch AWG 22, BR/WT

- PDC, Fuse 1 50 A

- Fuse A 15 A (Source, switched at RLY No 2)

- Right Fog Lamp (S104) AWG 20, LB

- Left Fog Lamp (S104) AWG 20, LB

NEXT: FOG LAMP SWITCH

-PIN 1: 22AWG, BR/WT (from FOG RELAY No 2) to Chassis GND

-PIN 2: 20AWG, BK/OR (completes CKT from FOG RELAY No 1) Chassis GND

-PIN 3: 20AWG, BK/OR (completes CKT 226 indicator lamps) Chassis GND

-PIN 4: NU

-PIN 5: 22AWG, OR (completes CKT from OD Illumination Lamp) Chassis GND

-PIN 6: From FOG RLY No 2 (source that completes CKT 226 / indicator lamp) Chassis GND.

As you can see, these are all grounds that are switched to complete the CKTs. Keep in mind this switch is tied to those two relays which have a ton of other things tied into it which, will be affected by what is done at the switch level thus causing other systems / CKTs to not work or possibly short something out.

That's about all the time I have for now, but, I'll check back with you later.
CM

 

OPTION 1: Wire the lights under the dash while keeping the OEM FOG SWITCH in tact. This method is the easiest to get power from thus why I presented it as your first option to try.

You'll need a SPST with illumination.

Wiring:

PIN 5: (illumination feed) Jumps to new switch / illumination lamp. Check pinout of switch that you buy and note config for lamp CKT. The other side of lamp goes to Chassis GND to complete the CKT.

PIN 5: Feeds your under dash light to one side of each bulb / filament in parallel. Take the other side of each filament and route this to the SPST switch contact point. Take the other side of the switch and tie it to Chassis GND. This completes the CKT for the under dash lamps.

NOTE:If your looking to have the under dash lamps on while the vehicle is off, the power source needs to be derived from elsewhere as, power is not supplied to this CKT during KEY OFF or KEY ACC.

OPTION 1- use a power source such as the radio power and, set the key to ACC. Little more work but, not too hard but, still, it's not live 100%.

OPTION 2- tap into S121 (main power source / feed) Connector C More work, but, live connection thus allowing the lamps to run in the vehicle when KEY OFF condition is present.

Additional Info: To bypass the dome lamp, switch the dome lamp CKT using a SPST SW. This way, you'll have the option to interrupt the CKT path to Chassis GND.

CM