I just got back from paying my registration and my truck felt rough. It would stutter a lot. Then it wold have pockets were it'd be fine. I did the key dance and I got Code 43 "Peak primary circuit not achieved with the maximum dwell time" What the hell does that mean??? Would someone mind inturpreting that sentence and telling me as if I were a 2nd grader?

 

i tryed googling it

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t359253.html

Ignition Coil #1 Primary Circuit

also found stuff about the cps



i would go to autozone and have them scan it, to see if you can get more info

good luck

 

The Dodge code 43 is an older 2-digit code. Since all 1996-newer vehicles support OBD-II, you'd be better off getting those codes read (the 2 digit codes don't always translate into a single OBD-II code). Chilton's manual for 1996 says a code 43 is Ignition Coil Circuit Failure, however another source says it could be a P0306 (misfire on cylinder #6). It's hard to tell without the actual P0XXX generic OBD-II trouble code. Anyway, since I haven't dealt with this code before I searched the 'net for answers. It seems a likely repair is to replace the ingnition coil & spark plug wires. It could potentially be an intake manifold leak as well. Based on what you've said I'd say start by changing all the spark plugs and wires (i.e. tune-up), and the ignition coil as well. Also read the TSB here. Go from there

 

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl654h.htm

 

Geez, why not recommend he replace the entire distributor while he's at it in addition to every other part you mentioned Parts swapping is no substitution for diagnosing a problem.

 

i copy and pasted , i typed in code 43 for dodge ram into google and gotta alot of info so check it out

 

There's three modes of failure associated with that code and they are:

1. Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time (problem at the coil / component level)
2. Cylinder misfire (bad plugs and / or wires, A/F issue, valvetrain issue, vacuum leak)
3. Problem in power module to logic module interface (power / supply problem that supplies power to the PCM)


What does this mean?

MODE 1: COIL

In lamens terms, the voltage is too low and, the amount of time is not being met. That's what that means. Usually, it's a failing coil but, NOT ALWAYS as bad wires will also throw that out as well. I've had that happen with a new coil. Now, as to what else is causing this to occur:

- bad ignition wires

- bad plug

- bad coil / faulty coil / intermittent coil

- bad coil WIRE, faulty (leaky or open)

- low voltage to the coil on the PRIMARY side. Now, what's primary? The coil is a transformer (xfmr) and, at the input side, (the primary) is where the voltage comes in at one voltage (in this case, it's 12V) and is stepped up inside to 30-40 kV at the secondary respectively.

In addition to that, if the voltage at the PRIMARY side is low, the output will drop or, if there's a short in the windings on the primary side, same result, voltage drop at the secondary will result in low output. This affects the amount of voltage feeding into the spark plugs thus inducing a poor running vehicle due to the spark voltage being too low to FIRE across the gap at the plug thus not burning the fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber. This usually is followed by a misfire code as well.

Now, it could be something as simple as induction crossfire at the boot of the ignition wire. I've thrown that code many times and found it was simply a problem with El Cheapo (MSD) wires where, if the wires are poorly made, voltage leakage will make it's way into a neighboring wire thus firing off another cylinder prematurely. This is called INDUCTION CROSS-FIRE thus causing a rough running condition. It also can jump across or ARCs over to engine ground at the heads thus causing a short to chassis.

How to fix this: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm

How to check / TEST your coil:

Refer to the Haynes manual. You'll need a DMM / DVM to do this however. Simply measure across the primary side (connector side) and note whether or not the OHMs meet OEM spec.

Do the same on the secondary by measuring from the primary side (I use the HOT PIN) but, any can be used to the output terminal (secondary) and note the OHM reading. Again, should be to OEM spec.

It any of those fall out of OEM specs- R&R (remove and replace)

Next: you may have another issue. The coil may be fine. The wires may be fine, the cap and rotor may be fine but, you're still seeing that 43 code. In that case, it could be the ASD relay BUT, it also could be the FEED supply that powers it.

The thing is, with this system, or any electrical system for that matter, you've got to have a fundamental understanding of what does what on a system level.

IN this case, the battery supplies power to the PCM. The PCM energizes the ASD relay (found in the PDC box on the driver side fender) which in turn makes the connection that supplies the 12 V to the EFI system which, the COIL makes up a small part of that system as does the ignition wires, the plugs, the cap, the rotor, and, the dizzy.

On the coil INPUT / PRIMARY, there's a OR/GN wire that runs FROM the ASD relay pin TO the COIL. This supplies the 12V feed to the coil. <IF> the relay is showing HIGH resistance on the contacts, or, internally, a VOLTAGE DROP will occur. The COIL will NOT see the correct input voltage of 12V but a reduced voltage thus tripping the PCM / OBD fault code.

There's also a black wire (GROUND) that runs to the PCM connector and, once in a blue moon, people have intermittent or high resistance at the connector at the PCM connector. Remedy is to clean the connection and run an OHM test to verify it's near 1 OHM. Rare but, it has been reported.

That's only one mode! LOL. I know this sytem inside and out, forward and backward after working on it. It's very simply once you've learned it and how it functions.

Now, in the other modes, that 43 OBD code could also mean that you've simply got a misfire to which, could also be:

- wires

- plugs

- A/F ratio

- Plenum leak

I'll stop here as, you can see how this is mushroom clouding into something bigger. Really, you've got a simple issue to address. It's just a matter of troubleshooting it to find the root cause/s.

CM

 

Thanks again fellas for the replies! I check the coil with a DMM and it fell within specs. Then I pulled all the plugs out and they all looked good. I then looked at the routing of the wires and I noticed that the coil wire was wrapped once around the #8 wire. So I corrected that and reset the CEL by disconnecting the battery (I let my bro-in-law borrow my scanning tool) and...so far so good. I'm gonna do a tune up tomorrow anyway though. I'm over due for one anyway.

 

I thought it was over but I guess not. So I noticed something else as I was going to pick up the cap and rotor. When it's cold it's a little rough but when it warms up (15-20 minutes), it feels okay. I went ahead and changed the cap and rotor (I was over due for one) and I'm waiting for the truck to cool down to recreate the situation.

I was thinking of getting these wires (mine are about 4 years/40K miles old) What do you think? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40256...ductId=1064786

 

I know this is going to come off as outspoken but, those are complete rubbish. The problem with all wires of that type is that they are not even designed for EFI vehicles in the first place but, they'll sell them to whomever just to make a quick buck.



Go with these: www.magnecor.com. Call them, tell them your make and model and they will custom make you a set. I've personally tested and used MSD Super Conductors, Taylors, Moroso, Mopar Performance, and Magnecor. Out of ALL of those, the Magnecors are the best ignition wires you can buy that are reasonably priced for that level quality of wire. The best part is: no more wiring to the TSB! You can run them side by side, coil over wire in the wire loom without fear of leakage- imagine that, ignition wires that do what they are supposed to do! Gee, what a concept. After all, this is what wires are SUPPOSED to do.


The problem with modern wires is that they are not even compatible nor designed to be used with EFI systems but, since they are DIRT CHEAP to manufacture, gazillions of them are shipped out to every auto warehouse distributor known to man. A few companies actually make them and, other folks put their name on them along with changing the boot type / color to make them stand out on the shelf. It's all S&M at it's best. Either they leak due to using the wrong / cheap materials for the dielectric shield to, the conductor breaks down faster than it should, or, mechanically, the design of the ends to the boot just downright suck.


I had induction cross fire with every wire run EXCEPT, Magnecors. If your into your truck, and, you want to avoid buying new wires every year, go with Magnecors.


Sincerely,


CM