While working on my steering issues (swapped steering gear), my battery ran down on thursday. I went to start the truck to follow the steering fluid fill procedure and it would not start. I jumped it and it started right up. After following the procedure in the FSM, I turned the truck off and called it a day. On saturday morning, I went out, checked the fluid and it was full at cold and I went to crank the truck to check the steering and It would not start. I pulled the battery and took it to advance auto parts, they tested it and said it was good, just needed charged. They did a quick charge which took about 45 minutes (battery is from early 08). I took the battery home and connected it back to the truck.

Now the truck won't start. I checked fuses and swapped relays, still no start. I pulled out my in-line spark tester and connected it to the coil and it lights up when the truck cranks.

I pulled a spark plug on the passenger side and plugged it inline and no light. I checked a plug on the driver side, again, no light.

I swapped the cap (white carbon build on on inside contacts) and rotor (was warn) , still no start and no light on spark plugs.

I pulled a spark plug on the driver side and it was a tanish color but was wet and smelled like fuel (autolight plug). I tried to pull another plug on the drivers side (one closes to radiator) and it was very tight to turn, I didn't want to risk breaking it off so I stopped messing with it.


What could cause the truck to not start (no spark to plugs) but still send fuel and foul the plugs?

I might wind up just towing it to a shop and having them do a tune up as I dont want to risk breaking a plug off.


- Dan M

 

Dan,

It sounds like there's either a failsafe mechanism that's been tripped via PCM or, the PCM is in Automatic Shutdown Mode.

You may have a short in the system someplace thus, the reason for the battery draining down like it did. You can test for that by the following process:

-REMOVE NEG (-) BAT lead

-PUT DMM into AMP mode. (Digital Multi-meter) Set it to highest A rating e.g. 10, 20A

-CONNECT ONE PROBE TO BAT FIRST - at the NEG TERMINAL. WARNING: DO NOT TOUCH POS (+) terminal at any time during this process for a DEAD SHORT WILL OCCUR.

-MOVE THE NEGATIVE BAT cable away from the battery as far as it will go. WHY? It may spark and, if there's any escaping gas from the battery, you surely do not want to create an ignition source near the battery. This is also the reason why to connect the probe to the battery terminal first. This is a safety protocol to avoid potential for explosion / accidental death.

-CONNECT the remaining PROBE to the negative battery cable.

-NOTE AMP reading on DMM

OEM Spec PLUS radio, PLUS Alarm System, PlUS Power amp/s or any other after-market stereo items will result in about .5-.7A current total including OEM items that always draw current at all times.

<IF> the measurement falls within that range, there is no short.

<IF> greater than 1A is seen, there's reason for concern and potential for short condition is most likely the reason for excessive current draw.

When going through the procedure of replacing the steering gear, retrace all steps to all wiring / electrical work that may have been disconnected during the time of service. All it takes is one wire that was not installed or, connected incorrectly.

Start there and see what you find.

CM

 

turned out to be coil was intermittently failing and coil wire was bad too (shop said resistance was not right)

Shop was able to get the plugs out without breaking any off but mentioned a couple of them were very hard to remove (were in the vehicle when I purchased it used).


- Dan M