Cracked Dash Replacement (Busted more than Cracked)
#1
Cracked Dash Replacement (Busted more than Cracked)
I have the all too common "cracked dash" or as I like to refer to it. "busted all to hell" dash.
From the inside with the busted bezel removed as well:
I decided to go with the replacement instead of the dash cap or skin. I bought it from E&K Bumper Fillers at http://sandkindustries.com/DASH.html. The downside, it only comes in black.
But this can be resolved with the correct paint and a few specialty items, like compressed air with drier (and any extras:
After paint:
Don't forget to install A pillar seals:
And I also installed the VIN plate to keep from having difficulty with a trooper somewhere:
From the inside with the busted bezel removed as well:
I decided to go with the replacement instead of the dash cap or skin. I bought it from E&K Bumper Fillers at http://sandkindustries.com/DASH.html. The downside, it only comes in black.
But this can be resolved with the correct paint and a few specialty items, like compressed air with drier (and any extras:
After paint:
Don't forget to install A pillar seals:
And I also installed the VIN plate to keep from having difficulty with a trooper somewhere:
Last edited by gdstock; 03-18-2012 at 12:49 AM.
#2
#3
Glove box was also damaged. Moulded hinges were broken off. Dealer wanted over $400 for a new one. Picked one up from JY but all I could find was a dark gray. Since I had to paint dash anyway, this was not goning to be a problem. With primer:
Repainted:
To drop dash down, the Airbag Module has to be disconnected (after disconnecting battery) and the mounting frame separated from dash.
Passenger Airbag needs to be removed from dash. There are 5 screws.:
Knee blocker needs to come out:
These kick panels on each side just pop out:
With knee blocker out, PRND21 indicator is disconnected and two bolts to removed to allow steering column to drop down:
Two screws to remove parking hood lever:
Radio removed:
Repainted:
To drop dash down, the Airbag Module has to be disconnected (after disconnecting battery) and the mounting frame separated from dash.
Passenger Airbag needs to be removed from dash. There are 5 screws.:
Knee blocker needs to come out:
These kick panels on each side just pop out:
With knee blocker out, PRND21 indicator is disconnected and two bolts to removed to allow steering column to drop down:
Two screws to remove parking hood lever:
Radio removed:
#4
What is meaning of word "extra" and who can count how muuuch??? It took a couple juet to get the courage to tackle this!
I bought a used bezel on e_bay for $45.00 about a month ago. One little scratch in it and I think I can glaze and paint.
There have been a number of threads about the covers and replacement dash panels but I never saw one with photos to show me which way may be best. As you can tell, my original dash was so busted up there wasn't much left to attach a skin on top of, so I decided a full replacement. Instructions in manual and a three year old post discuss removing the entire unti, but I did not even loosen the lower bolts that would require holding dash up somehow. With bolts tight, I was still able to pull the top back enough to get old dash out.
Last edited by gdstock; 11-20-2011 at 09:08 PM.
#5
You've got more courage then I do , I'm thinking bout going super lazy and just getting a dash cap and replacement bezel, but your old dash was pretty much non-existent!
But for real, looks good.
#6
#7
I missed this photo. The two nuts at the top need to come off:
Dash removed:
Remove these pieces:
And don't forget to take these out of old dash to install in new dash:
Stopping point for today. Getting dark and a little chilly. Gotta blow all the garbage out tomorrow and clean out air contitioning ducts. Lots of dust and trash inside.
Dash removed:
Remove these pieces:
And don't forget to take these out of old dash to install in new dash:
Stopping point for today. Getting dark and a little chilly. Gotta blow all the garbage out tomorrow and clean out air contitioning ducts. Lots of dust and trash inside.
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#10
VIN plate just has two rivets. I just broke old plastic away and drilled two hols slighly smaller than flared end of rivet in new dash. I place a 1/4" box end wrenc below rivet, and used long nosed pliers to compress and force rivet into holes. Small dab of clear rtv in center to make sure it would stay in the event rivet process went south. New plastic is thick and not near as brittle as old dash, so it popped in rather easily.