1500 Owners That Have Done The Wheel Cylinder Swap?
I know there are a few of you that have PM'd me and posted about doing the wheel cylinder swap on your 1/2 ton trucks.
So...how did it turn out?
Did the swap go without issue? Did you notice improved braking? Let me know, and I'll edit my original post ( https://dodgeforum.com/m_498851/tm.htm ) with the updated info that it will work on 1/2 tons
So...how did it turn out?
Did the swap go without issue? Did you notice improved braking? Let me know, and I'll edit my original post ( https://dodgeforum.com/m_498851/tm.htm ) with the updated info that it will work on 1/2 tons
i had to replace one of mine cuz all the brake fluid was coming out.just take the tire off pop open the drum and pop it out hokk the new one up and reverse the steps , pretty easy.
ORIGINAL: 2big2dodge
i had to replace one of mine cuz all the brake fluid was coming out.just take the tire off pop open the drum and pop it out hokk the new one up and reverse the steps , pretty easy.
i had to replace one of mine cuz all the brake fluid was coming out.just take the tire off pop open the drum and pop it out hokk the new one up and reverse the steps , pretty easy.
[8D]I'm asking if any 1500 owners HAVE installed the GM cylinders. I want to edit my write-up and then submit it to the how-to section.
I just want to make sure I have all the facts before I do.
It's on the main forum page. Scroll down towards the bottom. It's the first one in Technical Help & Information. The title of the forum is DIY - Do It Yourself...which is basically a how to section
ORIGINAL: shott8283
you think tehre should be any reason why your application wont fit our commong 1500's rom?
you think tehre should be any reason why your application wont fit our commong 1500's rom?
The 8800# GVWR models (like my V10) use the same MC as all the 1-tons do.
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One tip I would add is that when you are finishing up the rear brake job
and bleeding the brake system to get rid of air
don't press the brake pedal down all the way....
just do multiple 2-3 inch presses of the pedal.
This keeps the master cylinder piston from going too far forward
and out of the range of "normal" braking travel and
keeps the old piston seals from getting damaged by the rough lip that is usually
worn onto the bore walls where 'normal' piston movement stops.
and bleeding the brake system to get rid of air
don't press the brake pedal down all the way....
just do multiple 2-3 inch presses of the pedal.
This keeps the master cylinder piston from going too far forward
and out of the range of "normal" braking travel and
keeps the old piston seals from getting damaged by the rough lip that is usually
worn onto the bore walls where 'normal' piston movement stops.
When I did one of my cars in the past, I put a block of wood on the floor behind the brake pedal to prevent it from traveling to far and damaging the seal.



