If you've got a second gen 4.7 with 16 plugs, I've got a few tips for doing the tune up/spark plug change.

1. Get a set of wires/boots just in case, use them if yours are cracked, if not you can return them to the dealer without a hassle. Better safe than sorry (and having to waste another hour taking everything apart again).

2. Proper tools. Upper plugs on 08+ manifolds use a thin wall 5/8 socket, I used a Mastercraft socket put it on the lathe and shaved it down to .830 outside diameter and it slipped in perfectly. Snap-on sockets are a perfect fit just the way they are. For the lower bank to make life easy, you're best with a swivel head spark plug socket and a 3" standard extension. It makes getting to the back plugs easy as hell. If you use a swivel spark plug socket you can even do the back 3 passenger side plugs without having to remove the fender liner. It looks like it's a rough job, but with that socket your life will be a lot better.

3. Use the proper plugs!
Upper bank calls for Bosch FR8TE2 (Nickel Yttrium) Gap .040
Lower bank calls for Bosch FR8T1332 (Iridium) Gap .050

4. Anti seize on plug threads, anti-seize on the top of the coil boots, and dielectric grease inside both ends of the wires and inside of the boots.

Tools you will need in total for doing the job:
10mm socket, 11mm socket, 5/16 shallow socket, 6" extension, 3" extension, 5/8 thin wall spark plug socket, 5/8 swivel head spark plug socket, plug wire pullers, anti-seize, dielectric grease.

 

I used Champion Iridium spark plugs for all sixteen, part # 9055, and so far no issues. Will see how they perform gas mileage wise once summer hits. No difference in drive-ability.

A standard Craftsman "spark plug socket" fits fine on the upper plugs without modification.

 

Thanks for the great write up. I was on the fence as to weather I wanted to do the plugs myself or not.

 

Thinking this should be a sticky in the DIY section?

 

Sure and dont be affraid to clean house up/organize there too if you feel the need. Ive been meanign to do it, but havent had the chance

 

THREAD HI JACK,The inner fender liner is pretty easy to remove. I removed it to get to upper O2 sensor and the plugs were literally right there easy peasy

 

One more note:
I did upper spark plugs about a month or two ago and to prepare for it, I bought a new Craftsman swivel (i.e., u-joint) spark plug socket. It did NOT fit into the upper cylinders. I ended up using a Duralast swivel head with 6" extension that fit perfectly.

Did everything else exactly as the OP described and it worked great. Just be careful not to over tighten the bolts on the coil packs.

 

I know that this is an old thread. But, I thought I'd add some notes for anyone planning to replace both the upper and lower banks of spark plugs on their 2008+ V8 Dakotas. I did mine yesterday and today. (I'm slow, don't this except once every 50K miles, and had to discover some resolutions to problems along the way.)

Passenger side:
- The lower bank is accessible from the top down if you move the air filter box out of the way. You can't access these plugs from the wheel well without removing the fender liner. The air filter box is held in place by one bolt (10 mm nutdriver will do it) and a "snap-in" grommets, similar to the air cap on top of the engine. This will let you avoid the problems of removing the wheel and the fender liner. If you want to remove the fender liner, here's a video on how: .

Looking at the space with the air box moved (left the breather hose attached):

Looking at the space under the air box after it has been moved (left the breather hose attached).

Close-up of the retaining nut and stud:


Looking under the air filter box at the lower spark plug bank:

Looking under the air filter box at the lower spark plug bank


The driver's side lower bank can be accessed from above and does not need to be accessed through the wheel well. However, removing the wheel can make the seeing the bank and installing the cables a little easier. I removed everything from above. The plugs I put into their wells from below and then tightened from above. The cables were all installed through the wheel well because I could see what I was doing. There is no need to remove the fender liner. Everything is perfectly visible while it is still installed.

Some tools that I used or would have been helpful:
- Locking extensions (this would have been very helpful when it was time to remove the socket from the well)
- 2", 3", and 6" extensions...every plug has a different combination
- U-joints...get good ones. I have two set of Craftsman. One set uses pins and sucks; the pins were sliding out. The other uses what appear to be a bolt and nut or something, but it doesn't slide out. Lesson: avoid pinned U-joints when buying them.
- Long-handled ratchets...leverage was helpful, but mostly the long handles cleared the engine so that there were fewer smashed knuckles when removing the lower spark plugs.
- Thin-walled spark plug sockets (both top and bottom). I several spark plug sockets. Only one fit.
Gearwrench set: doesn't fit top or bottom wells (too thick)
Craftsman with U-joint: doesn't fit top or bottom wells (too thick)
Duralast w/ 6" extension: fits into the top and bottom wells. However, it's too short for the bottom wells and barely long enough for the top wells. The collar at the top prevents the socket from going far enough into the wells.
Craftsman deep 5/8" socket (standard socket from a socket set): fits into the lower bank wells. The locking extension would have made it easier to get it back out. As it was it took a jiggle (rocking clockwise & counter-clockwise) of the socket to get it to let go of the plug.

Some other videos that you might find useful:

Torn boot: or
Replacing ignition cables:
Replacing ignition coils:


Would love to hear if anyone has found specific thin-walled sockets that fit, especially that are longer than normal deep sockets...brand, model, etc.