Factory is 195. Every 10 degrees you drop your engine temp you gain about 1% power.

 

yeah, i just did some searching on the subject. found out a couple of things: the t-stat is for some odd reason installed in the lower hose and you practically have to drain the entire cooling system to remove it and NAPA sells a $3.00 180 degree t-stat that will work on a 4.7 if you cut a notch in it.

 

I will be installing a bunch of new parts and the 180 stat will be one of them. I will be doing write ups on everything including that notch. You can buy a $29 dollar stat that is a direct fit, or buy the $3 dollar one which is exactly the same besides a small notch.

 

I can take a pic of where I installed my resistor inline, but its covered in electrical tape. Basically, I went 6 inches away from the sensor, spliced in to the insulation to find the green wire, and wired the resistor in there. After covering it up, you cant even tell it is there. The sensor is reading about 25 degrees cooler now.

 

so with the power wire its not just unplug it and plug it back in? i didn't read on there that there was splicing involved to hook it up!

 

I am going to make a power wire set up just like the airram site has. Actually gonna make 2.

One for the summer with the resistor and connectors on each end.
One for the winter that is stock and connectors on each end.


I want to be able to quick change the wire

 

I'm still trying to figure out if the resister is inline or parallel with the green wire going to the IAT?

 

You can either make your own connections so you can install and remove the resistor, or you can just hardwire one in. Remember, the power wire mod only works at WOT so you wont be using it all the time.

I installed mine inline, on the green and blue wire. I spliced the wire, and attached each end of the resistor to each connection so the signal has to go through the wire.

Where the resistor and wire termanials make the connection:
PART_1285776407424.jpg

The wires from the IAT sensor. Sorry, I am color blind so I needed help when installing my own and cannot tell you which one it is in the picture, but I know the wire you tap in to is green and blue:
PART_1285776367795.jpg

The wire terminals I used on each side of the terminal with a crimper. I dont know the actual name of the terminal, all I know is how to use one with a crimper. I just crimped the resistor so it was held in by the terminal; it was easier than soldering:
PART_1285776315677.jpg

 

it's called a butt crimp....(ever suffer from those....lol), thanks for the pics. I will install mine this weekend. A 1/4 watt 4.7 k ohm resister installed on the green/blue wire. Cut the wire in two and use the butt connectors to install the resister inline with the wires. Easy enough...and Airram charges $45 for this???

 

Yes sir. I crimped mine first to the resistor, wrapped it in electrical tape and then bent it so I could keep the blue/green wire the same length without having to trim out 3 inches to get the resistor to fit. I put a could tie wraps on it to prevent any of the wires from pulling out (you should NEVER pull out) and did one more electrical tape wrap around everything.

This will do the same thing Airrams product will do. You just wont be able to unplug it when you go to the dealer, but the dealer would never know the difference anyways. When your engine gets hot, even on a 70 degree day, after the truck sits for a while your IAT is reading over 100 degrees. Your only altering a value for a temp sensor, the PCM cant tell.