I have been getting alot of PM's about the leveling kit and blocks in the rear. I wanted to clear up a few things with everyone in case they had more questions.

Everyone seems to be clear that the Trail Master kit is the only true choice to level or lift the front of the 05-07 Dodge Dakota's safely. The rear blocks seem to be where I get the most PMs.

Rear blocks is a basic, easy, and safe way to lift the rear of the truck. We are lucky to have a spring oer axle setup, so by simply jacking the truck up, putting it on jack stands, removing the rear wheels, and supporting the axle with a jack, we can quickly remove the U-bolts that hold the axle on both sides, (one side at a time is easiest) drop teh axle with the jack an inch, and insert the blocks.

I am currently running 1" blocks, not 2" blocks. This is important because A. the 2" were too big for the stock shocks, the shocks would top out, or be at max length when hitting even the most mild speed bumps, making the truck feel as if the rear was lifting off the ground, and then slamming back down...not a good feeling. and B. 2" blocks provide to much lift, making the rake larger then stock, and in turn, gives you this nose dive feel when braking, and when simply driving around town.

The only block lift kit I have tested is the autozone aluminum block and u-bolt kit that can be had for around $20 at any autozone. most all block kits are created equal, and aluminum blocks seem to be what the more expensive kits (that use blocks) are using. They have held huge heavy loads for me, and have performed fine.

Its very important to note that the 1" block kit will not work right out of the box. (the autozone kit) This is because they come with very long U-bolts. The U-bolts need to be cut to 8" long, instead of the 10" that they come. Even a deep socket bit will top out when trying to tighten these things down, which means you will have the truck apart, and wont be able to finish the job. I cut mine with a dremel really quickly, I took about 2" off each of them, and they bolted on great. (2" kit no cutting is required, although they are still a bit long) Instead of cutting them, you could use a hand wrench, but we all know how long that would take, so getting them cut in advance will save you time.

When the job is complete your rear end should be sitting at 23" high from dead center axle to top of the wheel well. The front, with the TM kit will sit 21.5", giving you a 1.5" rake, which is less then stock, but stil enough for loads and towing. (stock heights are 20" front, 22" rear)

This may sound like a small difference, but its actually quite dramatic, even more so that now you have the ability to run 265/75-R16 tires, which give you another .5" lift, front the stock 245/75s.

Stock shocks will still work great with the TM kit and 1" blocks, and even though the truck may not look like the monster truck or offroad machine we all wish we could have from a kit, it will at least get the truck sitting where a 4x4 fromt eh factory should, and you will clear about 10" of ground clearance, which would be impressive from the factory.

Unfortunately, I do not have a how-to, to install lift blocks, but it is very easy. If you dont want to do it yourself, it should not cost more the 1 labor hour at a shop.

Ive been running the setup for about a year and its been great, even better with the 1" blocks. I feel no difference from the stock ride, the clearance let me run larger tires and the handling/ fuel mileage doesnt seem to be effected anymore then my driving habbits could change the mileage.

Total cost of the lift is about $110 for parts, I think thats a worthy investment. If I havnt answered most general questions that I have been recieving in my PMs, please ask more in this thread.

 

http://www.a******ia.com/Lift_Kit_In...ht20030101rl/1

This is a link to a lift kit that used rear blocks on a 02 ram, its the exact same setup to install a block on our truck, hope it helps.

 

Nice work, some good info here

For those who don't already have the TM kit installed here's the official updated instructions, make sure to use these: http://www.trailmastersuspension.com...ions/DL223.pdf

 

What is the difference between installing them inside the coil versus on top of it?

The instruction I got with my TMkit was to use the new bolts and install it on top.So that is what I did. Is there a problem with installing them this way?

 

The instructions I linked are the updated method. So long as your truck is not 4x4 it won't be a problem but on a 4x4 installing it on top moves the entire strut assembly downward which can cause axle bind at full extension. By installing it inside the strut a la the new instructions the axle bind issue cannot occur, since the struts can only extend a certain distance full extension will be the same as it was stock.

 

Thanks for the reply. My truck is a 4X4 so it looks like it will have to come apart again and be fixed.

[:@]This sucks, I spent most of the day last Sat installing this kit. I sent an email to TM to complain about getting the wrong instructions.

 

Any follow ups on this topic? My kit was also instlled with the old instructions. WTF...Over.

 

what is the trick to getting the nut off at the top of the strut? itried like hell all day and could not get it off. i am guessing an 18 mm offset wrench and a 8 mm wrench at the top. i had to put everything back together, save the driver sway bar link which sheared off. also is there a decent spring compressor out there. i rented a set from advanced auto which where too big and had to buy a set which kept turning thus compressing one side. should i buy a second set and use three?

 

with the rear blocks and TM kit can you still install a body lift? or is this too much?

 

also where did you buy your TM kit from? i forgot to ask that earlier.