deep socket to go over the u-bolt nuts, floor jack to lift the springs up and slip in the block. That's about it. Check your blocks periodically, aluminum is soft and somehow those boogers loosen up and spit out, I have seen it MANY times! I have seen it enough that I would not run blocks unless they were steel and then I'd tack weld them in place. Blocks introduce axle wrap as well..

 

I originally had 2" blocks in, but the back was a little too high and the shocks were rough, so i switched it to 1". The 2" blocks practically seemed like they were welded after one NY winter. I had to use a hammer to break them loose, they were holding the axle onto the leaf springs, with no u-bolts! lol.

(So for the record I recommend 1" rear blocks paired with the TM front end kit)

Ive had the 1" blocks on for maybe 6 mo now, and I checked the blocks and u bolts after 3 or 4 months and they were snug and solid. With a 1" block I don't think anyone would have axle wrap issues.

Hell the ford ranger 4x4 has 2" blocks from the factory. I think that silverado z71 package had them too for a generation. I would never recommend a block lift for 5", but for 1" or 2", you'll never have to think about them again once there installed.

 

Yeah I always like a little rake, if you level your truck with a lift kit, near anything in the bed makes it looks like its sagging, especially a bed cap. If the U-bolts from the RC kit are a little longer then needed, like if the top of the bolts have another 1" of slack, then you could simply jack up the truck, put it on jack stands, loosen up the bolts and let them drop down half an inch, or a bit more, slide out the 1.5" blocks, and slide in the 2" blocks, then snug up the u bolts. Nothing could be easier. IF the U-bolts have the slack that is.

 

Yeah, I just checked, there is about 1 1/2" left of threads on the U-bolts, so I am good there. I am looking for some universal cast iron ones right now, or do you think it would matter much?

 

I heard that alot of lift companies use aluminum blocks. I know that Aluminum is softer, but that doesnt mean its worse. I was told its the least prone to crack, and its crush strength in block form is beyond anything the truck would ever see towing or through payload. Fabtech uses billet aluminum blocks instead of cast iron because they claim they "wont crack like cast iron."

I think that cast iron is a cheaper block altogether. Dont quote me on that though.