Fan...which one
First choice:
I can get it for $230.75. Original price is $439.99. Specs are:
Fan Specifications Mounting Surface Required: 18 x 16 x 4-1/4inches Fan Diameter: 15-inches Fan RPM @ 13.5VDC: 2200 Number of Blades: 8 Air Flow @ 0-inch static pressure: 2800 CFM Amp Draw: 13.9 amps Mounting System: Universal Brackets
Might be a bit wide though. I'd have to double check.
This unit comes complete with its own shroud, universal mounting brackets, and wiring needed to complete the installation. Looks very heavy duty to me.
Pic didn't post for some reason. Here it is:
Or this one. Price is marked down from over $200 to $98. Here are the specs:
Fan Specifications Mounting Surface Required: 16-1/2 x 16 x 3-1/4inches Fan Diameter: 16-inches Fan RPM @ 13.5VDC: 2000 Number of Blades: 10 Air Flow @ 0-inch static pressure: 2000 CFM Amp Draw: 11 amps Mounting System: Thru Core
Our radiator is 18x22. But it was dark when I measured it.
Pic didn't post again...
I can get it for $230.75. Original price is $439.99. Specs are:
Fan Specifications Mounting Surface Required: 18 x 16 x 4-1/4inches Fan Diameter: 15-inches Fan RPM @ 13.5VDC: 2200 Number of Blades: 8 Air Flow @ 0-inch static pressure: 2800 CFM Amp Draw: 13.9 amps Mounting System: Universal Brackets
Might be a bit wide though. I'd have to double check.
This unit comes complete with its own shroud, universal mounting brackets, and wiring needed to complete the installation. Looks very heavy duty to me.
Pic didn't post for some reason. Here it is:
Or this one. Price is marked down from over $200 to $98. Here are the specs:
Fan Specifications Mounting Surface Required: 16-1/2 x 16 x 3-1/4inches Fan Diameter: 16-inches Fan RPM @ 13.5VDC: 2000 Number of Blades: 10 Air Flow @ 0-inch static pressure: 2000 CFM Amp Draw: 11 amps Mounting System: Thru Core
Our radiator is 18x22. But it was dark when I measured it.

Pic didn't post again...
Last edited by Altair; Aug 13, 2008 at 01:01 PM. Reason: This is what the edit button is there for.
You don't have to put it in the cab...I did because I wanted to know when it was on and make sure the high amps from the Taurus fan wasn't going to kill it (I'm more likely to keep an eye on it in the cab than under the hood, know what I mean). What I did was just plain retarded after I thought about it; the lights on the unit didn't really tell me that the Taurus fan blew a fuse. So it defeated the purpose which is why I recommend against mounting in it the cab now.
A fan with what you're looking has low amps so you shouldn't be worried about it like I was.
A fan with what you're looking has low amps so you shouldn't be worried about it like I was.
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I do recommend it but I think it depends on your setup really. For me I used a fan that drew huge amps and wanted to take precautions to avoid the fan not working. So I chose the SPAL controller for the 50% initial power run to not blow fuses.
Advantages to the SPAL: unit is the relay, has all the wires you'll ever need for any setup, has internal diodes (if you don't go SPAL any higher amp fans should use this to keep it from being burnt out by any power spikes), comes with fuses, and has two temp modes. It's also a clean setup IMO.
Disadvantes to the SPAL: the only thing I can think of is the temp sensor. stock temp sensor wires are really tiny and almost crappy to splice into and the connector style I think was snap-on so you can't just loosen a bolt and secure another connector on. I used an aftermarket temp sensor and gauge to accurately set the temp settings(and to offer adjustment when I go 180 thermostat). You could just set it just below norm op temp of your truck on the stock gauge, I guess. To me the aftermarket sensor made it easier than splicing in a larger SPAL wire compared to the stock tiny wire. ALSO, you can get a temp sensor from SPAL that is calibrated to work with the controller. The unit is already preprogrammed and will turn on at those settings with the SPAL thermostat. SPAL can't gaurantee it'll work fine with stock thermostats to run correctly on the preprogramed settings.
A low amp fan doesn't necessarily need to be that overrated though.
You could just get a probe style controller and it'd serve you fine. Functionality is simple. Now you just need a relay, wires, maybe a diode, and a fuse.
Simplest choice for me would be the SPAL controller and their thermostat. Install the thermost in the same port I did and hook up your wires to the fan. DONE
Advantages to the SPAL: unit is the relay, has all the wires you'll ever need for any setup, has internal diodes (if you don't go SPAL any higher amp fans should use this to keep it from being burnt out by any power spikes), comes with fuses, and has two temp modes. It's also a clean setup IMO.
Disadvantes to the SPAL: the only thing I can think of is the temp sensor. stock temp sensor wires are really tiny and almost crappy to splice into and the connector style I think was snap-on so you can't just loosen a bolt and secure another connector on. I used an aftermarket temp sensor and gauge to accurately set the temp settings(and to offer adjustment when I go 180 thermostat). You could just set it just below norm op temp of your truck on the stock gauge, I guess. To me the aftermarket sensor made it easier than splicing in a larger SPAL wire compared to the stock tiny wire. ALSO, you can get a temp sensor from SPAL that is calibrated to work with the controller. The unit is already preprogrammed and will turn on at those settings with the SPAL thermostat. SPAL can't gaurantee it'll work fine with stock thermostats to run correctly on the preprogramed settings.
A low amp fan doesn't necessarily need to be that overrated though.
You could just get a probe style controller and it'd serve you fine. Functionality is simple. Now you just need a relay, wires, maybe a diode, and a fuse.
Simplest choice for me would be the SPAL controller and their thermostat. Install the thermost in the same port I did and hook up your wires to the fan. DONE


