You can't go wrong with Rancho's, I've run nothing but Rancho's or Bilstein's for probably the last 15 years or so on my 4x4's, Somebody would really have their work cut out to convince me to spend my $ on any other brand but those two...

 

Are these necessary when installing a leveling kit? Or do most guys just tend to switch them out at this time since they already have everything apart anyway?

 

They are not really necessary when installing a leveing kit, but since the OEM struts are JUNK that produces a really unstable and bouncing suspension feel, it is really a nice upgrade to have RANCHOS instead of the crappy OEM ones.

 

If you are going to install the levelers, replace the struts/shocks. It would be foolish not to.

 

Not to beat a dead horse but, installing the Ranchos has been the add-on that has really improved my Dak. beyond my expectations.

 

They're not necessary, but probably recommended. I've had my level kit installed since before aftermarket shocks were available. I had my blown OEM's replaced under warranty and had the dealer install the kit at the same time (TM kit, inside the strut not on top). It's actually helped the ride some, not enough though and I suspect the shocks are blown again. I've got the Ranchos on my list for next summer (unless Bilstein actually makes something for us).

 

Thank you guys for the input! Altair, I didn't know there were different styles of leveling kits. So there's one that goes inside the strut, and one that sits on top, huh? Is there a prefered one? You'll have to bear with me, I'm not really new to modifying vehicles, just pickup trucks, I've never had one before.

 

I'm trying to straighten myself out on the leveling kit too (even though I drive a 2WD), but as I understand it:

Installing the spacers between the spring and strut cap (requiring spring compression) will lift the truck via spring preload, but the shocks will limit the droop to stock, and will prevent CV bind. It sounds like this prevents bind, but also would "top out" the front end sooner if you're really romping off road.

Installing the spacers on top of the strut will force the entire assembly downward, lifting the truck but allowing the shocks to droop their full distance plus a couple inches, which is beyond the CV's range.

1.5" spacers can be installed on top, and that 1/2" reduction is enough to prevent bind. The older 2" spacers are best installed on top of the spring for 4WD.

Spacers-on-top, even for 2WD, also allow the steering geometry and ball joints to articulate that much farther, but hopefully this round of Dodge ball joints can handle it. Once upon a time there was a thread where I worked out the % difference in steering force for different tie rod angles, but I don't know what angles the leveling kits create.

I give high-angle CV joints for Dakota's a 0.00% chance of ever being made.

Correct me on any of this if I'm wrong...I'm looking to level my truck and stick in some Monroe/Ranchos next year when my shocks blow out.

 

Basically what cramerica said. With the TM kits there were two different ways of installing them, originally they instructed that it be installed on top of the strut assembly but supposedly some had axle bind issues on the 4x4's so TM changed the installation instructions to install the spacer inside the strut assembly on top of the spring. For the 4x2 guys it's not a big deal either way since they don't have to worry about the axle bind.