Got my rear shocks for my lift, quick question for those experienced
MW, you guys are right on the ball with things.
Only thing I would add now is if you are going to check droop, jack up the truck by the rear, use jackstands under the frame, and slowly lower the rear while watching all the lines. This is how I did it.
All I had to do is bend a bracket or two that hold the rubber lines. That gave me enough play so the I won't rip the lines when in full droop.
My Bilsteins are 2" longer than stock, so I will bottom them out before I rip a brake line. I would rather buy another shock or two, than to lose the brakes in the rear.
dakolorado is dead on with what to do also. Re-do the lines, or limiter straps.
Me, if I was in your shoes, I would redo the lines. That is if you offroad and feel you will be needing all the suspension travel you now have.
If you are not going to need all of that droop, send back the shocks, tell them to learn to measure, and send your money back to you.
Bilsteins await you. (The ride sooooooo much better too....with and without a load)
Only thing I would add now is if you are going to check droop, jack up the truck by the rear, use jackstands under the frame, and slowly lower the rear while watching all the lines. This is how I did it.
All I had to do is bend a bracket or two that hold the rubber lines. That gave me enough play so the I won't rip the lines when in full droop.
My Bilsteins are 2" longer than stock, so I will bottom them out before I rip a brake line. I would rather buy another shock or two, than to lose the brakes in the rear.
dakolorado is dead on with what to do also. Re-do the lines, or limiter straps.
Me, if I was in your shoes, I would redo the lines. That is if you offroad and feel you will be needing all the suspension travel you now have.
If you are not going to need all of that droop, send back the shocks, tell them to learn to measure, and send your money back to you.
Bilsteins await you. (The ride sooooooo much better too....with and without a load)
^^^ They did do an exceptional job explaining them. I understand now. Well I didn't know they could only be used with a 2" lift in the rear. I wasn't really planning on going that route until later on down the road. I may hold off on those for awhile until I decide for sure what I wanna do. I appreciate the offer though, and if for some reason I change my mind, I'll let you know first!
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I was checking on my "extra" parts I have for my truck, and I still happen to have the new U-bolts that RC sent me. They are wrong for my truck, I have a V8 and a larger axle. The ones they were initially sending out were smaller and for a V6. Some R&D that ****tthole company does, isn't it. (were is that rolleyes smiley at?)
So if you ever need new U-bolts, I got ya covered there too.
No problem.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I was checking on my "extra" parts I have for my truck, and I still happen to have the new U-bolts that RC sent me. They are wrong for my truck, I have a V8 and a larger axle. The ones they were initially sending out were smaller and for a V6. Some R&D that ****tthole company does, isn't it. (were is that rolleyes smiley at?)
So if you ever need new U-bolts, I got ya covered there too.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I was checking on my "extra" parts I have for my truck, and I still happen to have the new U-bolts that RC sent me. They are wrong for my truck, I have a V8 and a larger axle. The ones they were initially sending out were smaller and for a V6. Some R&D that ****tthole company does, isn't it. (were is that rolleyes smiley at?)
So if you ever need new U-bolts, I got ya covered there too.
MW, you guys are right on the ball with things.
Only thing I would add now is if you are going to check droop, jack up the truck by the rear, use jackstands under the frame, and slowly lower the rear while watching all the lines. This is how I did it.
All I had to do is bend a bracket or two that hold the rubber lines. That gave me enough play so the I won't rip the lines when in full droop.
My Bilsteins are 2" longer than stock, so I will bottom them out before I rip a brake line. I would rather buy another shock or two, than to lose the brakes in the rear.
dakolorado is dead on with what to do also. Re-do the lines, or limiter straps.
Me, if I was in your shoes, I would redo the lines. That is if you offroad and feel you will be needing all the suspension travel you now have.
If you are not going to need all of that droop, send back the shocks, tell them to learn to measure, and send your money back to you.
Bilsteins await you. (The ride sooooooo much better too....with and without a load)
Only thing I would add now is if you are going to check droop, jack up the truck by the rear, use jackstands under the frame, and slowly lower the rear while watching all the lines. This is how I did it.
All I had to do is bend a bracket or two that hold the rubber lines. That gave me enough play so the I won't rip the lines when in full droop.
My Bilsteins are 2" longer than stock, so I will bottom them out before I rip a brake line. I would rather buy another shock or two, than to lose the brakes in the rear.
dakolorado is dead on with what to do also. Re-do the lines, or limiter straps.
Me, if I was in your shoes, I would redo the lines. That is if you offroad and feel you will be needing all the suspension travel you now have.
If you are not going to need all of that droop, send back the shocks, tell them to learn to measure, and send your money back to you.
Bilsteins await you. (The ride sooooooo much better too....with and without a load)
Thanks for the suggestions. Won't the suspension stop drooping after a certain point? I can't imagine the rough country shocks being strong enough to push the leaf springs farther down when the wheels are off the ground. I could be wrong though? Either way I will check the brake lines.
There is nothing pushing the axle down except gravity. The weight of the wheel tire and axle alone are taking care of that. Along with any leverage you are putting on the opposite side of the suspension. The shocks should be fine due to the sway bar link, that usually is the meatiest part of the suspension that stops travel however if it doesnt stop the travel before the brake lines stretch and break it will keep going. You will need to get that thing jacked up on one side or test it out on some rough "whoops" off road somewhere to truely test the suspension. The shocks are your limiting factor in most suspensions but it seems those shocks will allow a great amount of droop due their length.



