I'm trying to install an over the top of the strut 2" leveling kit in a 20,000 mile '05 Dakota 4x4. Pretty handy with tools, normally do all of my own maintenance work. Everything is pretty straightforward until I get to the part that requires the removal of the lower strut bolt. It's frozen up in the sleeve that goes through the bushing. I messed with it for hours using penetrating oil, air hammer, impact wrench, and lots of pretty colorfull language. No way.

Not to be easily talked out of the project, I reassembled it and took it to a local frame shop so they could have a go at it - with more air pressure (only 100psi at home) and bigger/younger bodies with bigger, more powerfull tools.

They can't get the stupid bolt to move either - even with a 3/4" impact.

So, escalating the project to the next level, we planned on cutting the bolt to get the strut out of the way, then press the bushing w/remaining section of the bolt still in place out and install a new one. That plan doesn't play well either, as the shop has been told the only way the bushing is available is with a new lower A-arm!!!! What the heck!!! Where is the camera? Is somebody plotting against me or what! Help Please! Getting a little frustrated here. Anyone have any ideas? Heat will melt the bushing, so that's out.
-Al

 

Well Al, I didn't run into that problem. I was able to knock mine right out on both passenger and driver sides with a flat head screw driver and a hammer.


It sounds as though the bolt and the sleeve have become "rust welded", or heavily rusted together. This isn't an uncommon problem really, I have heard about it 100x with guys jeeps leaf spring bushing sleeve and the bolt.

It sounds like you already know the answer, if it can't be broken free of the sleeve with an impact and tons of penetrating oil....

Did you try pressing the bolt out with a large c-clamp?

I don't have any other ideas besides replacement of the bolt and bushing.

I feel your pain with having to replace the entire lower arm....that just seems to be how we get parts for this truck unfortunately. When I installed my kit I broke a sway bar end link because the nut would not come off the top end of the end link, no matter how much penetrating oil, time, or wrenching techniques were used. Instead I unbolted them from the lower control arm instead, and had to repair the broken end link at a my fathers metal shop.

Do you have any dakota's int he junk yards around you? Maybe you can pull a lower arm?

Good Luck.

 

When I replaced my shocks, I was able to pound it out with a mallet. I assume the vehicle is jacked up with no pressure on that spot? Has the factory strut somehow become twisted, locking the bolt in with the U joint. If it is just rust welded, get a torch and the biggest 3/4" breaker bar you can find. There is no substitute for leverage.

 

Yes, shop says they tried pressing the bolt out, and yes, truck was supported with no load on the strut. I hadn't considered going the used route on the a-frame. That may turn out to be the plan. Big decision now is regarding how bad I want that kit installed. Do it, or just get used to the way it looks now. Um, that didn't take long, not going to be able to look at it in my driveway the way it is....

If I were to get a small spring compressor in there, is it possible to turn the top of the strut 180 with the load off of it? Is the piece that supports/conforms to the top of the coil seperate from the strut component with the studs fastened to it??

Thanks for the support guys.
-Al

 

Sorry to hear your having such a huge problem. Mined pounded out and then in with a hammer. You seem to have covered all the major attempts. I have a large pulley remover tool with 3 griping fingers that i use on stubborn stuff like that but it sounds as if you tried those. A c clamp with a large arc might work. Time to cut?

 

You mean to install the kit? Leave it bolted at the bottom compress it and then isntall the kit on top, put it back and decompress? You COULD do that, but your really supposed to just turn the entire strut around 180 degrees, not the plate on top, I know for a fact that you cant just turn the top plate as is. Some kits don't requre you to do that though, if you look at the how to install in the FAQ section you will see Daklorado's kit keeps the bolts in the factory location. But if you have the kit where you need to turn the strut plate 180 degrees, they mean taking the strut and turning it around before you put it back on. Trying to rotate the plate would open up a whole new can of worms, I dont even know if it can be done.

 

I just instaled mine and had the same problem. I left mine bolted at the bottom.I turned one top plate with just a prybar. The otherside I put a spring compressor on and then turned the plate. I made my plates too tall so I had to use a spring compressor on both sides to get the strut back in. A machine shop can make the bushing

 

Was just looking over the Trailmaster kit directions (the one that shims the spring within the strut)

http://www.trailmastersuspension.com...ions/DL223.pdf

The directions show pretty clearly that the spring ramp, isolater and strut top plate are 3 seperate parts. I see no reason that the top plate couldn't be relocated 180 degrees without disturbing the "ramp"? Doesn't look like any fun, but with the aid of a spring compressor, within the "dooable" range. Thanks for sharing your experience beadrunner, I think that's going to be my next plan. Will get back with the results as soon as I get the chance to give this a try. -Al

 

Oh I'm sorry I thought your intention was to install an above the strut spacer, without having to take the strut apart. You definately could install the TM kit within the strut and leave the lower bolt installed.

Good Luck.

 

Compress the spring take a screwdriver and seperate the rubber pad from the top plate then turn the top plate that should work