yea, if you relocate your motor to the bed of the truck, preferably on the tailgate

 

x5 million lol. You have no idea how relieved I am now. I was freaking out because I really can't afford an expensive repair right now. I pretty much told him to fix the problem and remove the leveling kit so I don't have any future problems. He's not gonna start working on it till tomorrow though, so hopefully I can catch him to tell him to leave it on now. I didn't take it my dealer, I took it to my mechanic, who knows that I installed the leveling kit. I don't know if he'll be able to get a replacement part though by tomorrow. Is it going to cause a ton of damage if I drive it right now as is? If he can't get the part, maybe I'll tell him to hold of and see if I can get ahold of one and do it myself this weekend. Thanks again for the help guys!

 

.. Lol

 

haha I bet Eric can do an endo with his new pads and dimpled rotors too

 

Yup those end-links are trash metal. I snapped one using one of the small wrenches that's maybe 4" long when I was taking that nut off. Don't worry about the kit doing that they just suck

Only thing I really suspect my kit is making worse are my shocks but I blew a set of those before I even got the kit on so...

 

It wont hurt anything to drive it with a sway bar end link broken. In fact, the whole sway bar technically could be unhooked, but the cars front end wont handle well, and under "emergency" braking or hard manuvering, your truck will handle very poorly. It's a safety thing really, but as far as it technically only being attached on one side, its really not the end of the world, you just need to fix it as soon as you can.

The part that broke is just a piece that attaches a long bar, the sway bar (which is mounted to the frame) to the lower control arm. There is another on the other side of the truck. Guys often detach them when they go wheeling, to gain articulation, but as I said its for handling purposes, and you really should get it fixed.

If you like the leveling kit dont remove it, that end link simply broke because they are cheap junk. My bet is it was compromised when the nut was removed and replaced, because 50% of the time when you remove the nut from these things, they snap.

Like I said check rock auto, they sell the part for around 20 bucks, if you want, buy the pair because he is going to have to detach the 1 on the other side to replace the broke one, so he can swing the sway bar up out of the way. Probablly not a bad idea to do them both.

If I lived close to you i would do it for you for free if you supplied the parts.

 

Kind of off topic, but when I was installing my leveling kit, and my end link broke, it was a sunday night, and no way to get a replacement, so I tapped out the top of the end link, where the bolt snapped, and threaded in a new bolt. I used this fix for about 2 months when I got around to replacing the end link with a new one.

Although the diameter of the new bolt is smaller, the sway bar actually sat where the original, larger diameter bolt remained, so it worked great.

 

Mine busted at the ball joint. I do not have a leveling kit. These end links are ****.

But, I must disagree that the leveling kit does not place any additional stress on the link. It most certainly does as there is more droop at the lower control arm, yet the sway bar position has not changed. This would definitely put more stress on the link as the tire rebounds, but will have less stress under compression. This is confirmed by the fact that at least 3 of you with lift spacers have had them break in the same spot, at the top, where there is the most stress at full droop. That said, they were probably close to shot anyway, and this pushed them over the edge.