My manifold on the passenger side is leaking at the back, very loud on cold starts, then quiets as it warms. I know this is very common problem, often involving busted manifold bolts. Are the bolts always broken? Will I have problems getting them out of the block? Will I need to re-tap the holes? If so, I'm taking it to a shop, If not Ill fix myself. Any advice on the subject is appreciated.

 

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable for battery.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Remove accessory drive belt.
4. Remove A/C compressor.
5. Remove A/C accumulator support bracket fastener.
6. Drain coolant below heater hose level.
7. Remove heater hoses at engine.
8. Remove fasteners attaching exhaust manifold heat shield.
9. Remove heat shield.
10. Remove upper exhaust manifold attaching fasteners.
11. Raise vehicle on hoist.
12. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
13. Remove fasteners attaching starter. Move starter aside.
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14. Remove lower exhaust manifold attaching fasteners.
15. Remove exhaust manifold and gasket. Manifold is removed from below the engine compartment.

CLEANING
1. Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable cleaning solvent, then allow to air dry.
2. Clean all gasket residue from the manifold mating surface.

INSPECTION
1. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
2. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check the mating surface for warp and twist.
3. Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that would prevent sealing.

INSTALLATION
1. Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below engine compartment.
2. Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
3. Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust manifold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at center and working outward to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
4. Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten fasteners to 8 Nm (72 inch lbs.) , then loosen 45 degrees.
5. Install starter and fasteners.
6. Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
7. Connect heater hoses at engine.
8. Install fastener attaching A/C accumulator.
9. Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
10. Install accessory drive belt.
12. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
13. Install battery and connect cables.
14. Fill cooling system.

 

Thanks Baracis. But the photo you've included does not match my manifold....which makes me wonder if I really have to go through all of that. Mine is a rear exit collector (both sides) instead of a central collector. I can't imagine that design is exclusive to the HO motor, but maybe. In addition, it looks like the manifold is pretty easy to get at if you simply remove the wheel, fender liner, and airbox...instead of removing radiator hoses, starter motor, and A/C compressor. I do appreciate the tech-description, but have you, or anyone actually done this? Is the write up Baracis posted correct? If so, sucks to be me.

 

You have the HO, my bad.

 

I did mine, back bolt was only loose. I took out the fender liner and the job was easy. Only problem i had was the heat shroud bolts broke when taking them off to get to the manifold so i have to replace all the bolts since they are a double bolt holding the manifold and the a post on them for the shroud. fortunatly none broke off so the change was easy. I installed a new gasket while I had them off also

 

mine is not a H.O and it doesnt look like that pic! mine exits the rear also...dont know what pic that is? well they are headers now....

 

Thanks guys. I'll make sure to get a new set of bolts to go with the gasket. I wonder if ARP or anybody similar makes a more durable oem replacement.

 

seriously? wtf...alldata better get their **** together then. I'm not paying for wrong information.

 

It is probably a generic write-up, involving many vehicles that carry the Chrysler 4.7 V8. But the Dak has those wide open "gills" in the fender well. I've never seen that before. Those holes are probably responsible for the manifold leak in the first place

 

Depending on your mileage, those manifolds should be covered under your Smog Emissions warranty, Both Federal or state. Check before your spend your own money.