Well my #1 choice would be the trailmaster kit, because of the reasons explained earlier.

All the other kits, daystar, autospring, and readylift I feel are about the same. They all mount on top of the strut, to lower it in the frame perch. Besides the daystar being made of polyurathane and the readylift and autospring being made of steel, its like comparing apples to apples in my opinion. Thats why I am saying, spending $230 on the readylift is expensive. It is up to you though, they will all work.

 

so the TM kit rasies it in the frame perch im sorry about all the the questions im just not very like car savy with the parts and all

 

No problem.

The Trailmaster kit mounts inside the strut assembly, and adds some pre-load to the coil spring, extending the strut longer.

So lets say your truck, without the leveling kit, sitting in your driveway is sitting at "0", and when the strut is fully extended, like when the wheels are off the ground, thats +5, and fully compressed up into the wheel well, that would be -5. When you install a kit like the trailmaster kit, it uses up some of the travel to create the lift, so with the kit installed, the strut stretches out and sits at about +2 or +3.

The BIG thing with this setup though, is that when you take the wheels off the ground, or fully extend the suspension, with the TM kit installed, it still only goes to +5, the maximum the suspension went without the kit installed. This means everything stays relatively in spec on the front end under suspension flex.

With a kit like readylift, autospring, daystar, and all other competitors on the market, there kit installs on top of the strut, like a crown. When you re-install the strut, the kit simply lowers where the strut mounts onto the frame, like a spacer. Problem with these kits are, when the suspension is fully extended to +5, since the leveling kit had the strut sitting lower in the first place, its actually sitting at, say, +7, over extending your balljoints, tie rods, and if it was a 4x4, your cv joints. (because you displaced the strut lower, but all the other suspension parts remain in there original location) The companies that make these kits claim that its acceptable, but in real world situations, and for some of us, it has lead to increased wear and tear on front end suspension components.

Know that before you purchase and install a leveling kit, that in some way shape or form, its most likely going to increase ball joint wear at the minimum. Alot of guys understand this, and dont mind taking the chance of the increased wear.

Do a little research on google with searches like "leveling kits and ball joint wear" and read around a few forums to get a feel for common problems that could arise with leveling kits.

The rear blocks are much simplier, since its a solid axle, you can raise the rear up to 2" with axle blocks. Its up to you what sort of look you want. Most pickups sit two inches higher in the rear right out of the factory, your dakota should be 2" higher in the rear right now. Thats why a "leveling kit" adds 2" to level it out. If you want to retain the raked look, the 2" blocks in the rear in addition to the leveling kit, will lift the truck 2" front and back, so it will look the same, just 2" higher all the way around. ALot of guys that carry loads in the rear often like the rake, because then when you have a load in the truck bed/box, the rear doesnt look like its sagging.

 

Thanks,

Well i think im going to try the TM kit and see if it will fit my 2wd. but so if install the axel blocks in the back with the leveling kit will it stay level or give it that raked look? or will it only stay looking level if i install the leveling kit?

 

The TM kit will give you a 1.5" lift in the front. Its going to level the truck out, as seen in the picture provided earlier in the thread. Its supposed to level the truck out perfectly. You wouldnt want to go with a 2" block with the TM kit, it will give it a stronger rake then the factory rake that already exists.

TM kit +1" rear blocks will do a 1.5" front lift, and a 1" rear lift. A mild rake will exist. The TM kit alone will level the truck.

No harm in starting with the TM kit, adding your larger tires, and then if you feel you need a bit more lift in the rear, THEN you can add the rear lift blocks.

 

When you put on these strut type leveling kits do you have to do an alignment because thats what I have seen in some of the instructions that come with them and do you think BFG 32" Mud Terrains would fit in there?

 

Brett,

a 265/75 on a 16" wheel is a 31.6" tire. I ran this size tire without a leveling kit for a year before I installed my leveling kit. I have no rub, or had no rub, but its the stock steel 16x7 wheel on my truck, and I hear the upgraded 16x8 wheel with this tire size will have a little rub depending on the brand and style of tire.

Either way...

I have a Daystar leveling kit, you can see it installed in the link I posted above. No issues with it. You cant really squeeze a tire any bigger then 265/75 r16 under there, even with a leveling kit. I know people have 285/75 r16s but I hear you need a body lift kit as well, and there will still be rub.

Seems like a 265/75 on a 16, or a 265/70 on a 17 is the best option.

my signiture pic below is the truck stock, no leveling kit, wearing 265/75 r16.

 

thanks alot for the quick responses guys! I have the same exact dakota as you monkey wrench and I plan on ordering the daystar kit today then getting a set of general grabber at2 265/75/r16 tires and I should be good to go as far as lift and tires go, then I want to get a flowmaster 40 series muffler cause I have cherrybomb glasspack now and have it come out on the passenger side infront of the rear wheel.

 

hey just letting you guys know i have the trailmaster on order and will post pics on before and after i install thanks for the help

 

Wow loosing track of what is for a 4x4 and 4x2? Can someone specify.....