lifted trucks.
Professional
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 179
Likes: 1
From: Calgary AB, Canada
Hey Ridingmark, go to your local 4x4 shop and ask for standard 2 inch lift blocks and ask if they can measure up your axle for new u-bolts. The whole thing shouldn't cost more than about 80 bucks. The blocks themselves will be about 2" tall with a small nub on one side and a hole in the other. This is to accommodate the leaf-pack bolt (you will understand after you get the suspension apart).
To install the blocks simply lift the truck by the frame until the rear wheels are off the ground and support it by the frame using jack stands and support the axle itself with more stands (4 total jackstands). I then removed the wheel on the side I was installing, unbolted the u-bolts and hammered them out. The axle should drop out but might need a bit of coaxing. If like me your axle does not drop far enough to get the block in use your floor jack and a piece of wood to gently compress your leaf pack until there is enough room. Insert the block, let the spring decompress (making sure it lines up with the hole on top of the block) and reinstall the U-bolts. I found a prybar invaluable in my efforts to line up the block and leaf pack/axle. Be creative if it doesn't quite fall back into place perfectly. Repeat procedure for the other side. It is easier if you only do one side at a time because you don't have to worry about the axle rotating on you.
In my experience the nub on the bottom of the lift block was too long and ended up not letting the block sit level on the pad. If this happens you MUST grind it down to make it sit securely as it will not "settle in" with use and could cause a part failure. To do this I used my belt sander but I am sure a file and patience would suffice.
When you install the blocks make sure that the tapered end of the block goes towards the front of the truck.
As for the front kit, I had it re-aligned as I always do whenever I unbolt part of the suspension. Not only does the lift throw off the camber/caster and toe, just the process of taking apart your linkages can have the same effect.
To install the blocks simply lift the truck by the frame until the rear wheels are off the ground and support it by the frame using jack stands and support the axle itself with more stands (4 total jackstands). I then removed the wheel on the side I was installing, unbolted the u-bolts and hammered them out. The axle should drop out but might need a bit of coaxing. If like me your axle does not drop far enough to get the block in use your floor jack and a piece of wood to gently compress your leaf pack until there is enough room. Insert the block, let the spring decompress (making sure it lines up with the hole on top of the block) and reinstall the U-bolts. I found a prybar invaluable in my efforts to line up the block and leaf pack/axle. Be creative if it doesn't quite fall back into place perfectly. Repeat procedure for the other side. It is easier if you only do one side at a time because you don't have to worry about the axle rotating on you.
In my experience the nub on the bottom of the lift block was too long and ended up not letting the block sit level on the pad. If this happens you MUST grind it down to make it sit securely as it will not "settle in" with use and could cause a part failure. To do this I used my belt sander but I am sure a file and patience would suffice.
When you install the blocks make sure that the tapered end of the block goes towards the front of the truck.
As for the front kit, I had it re-aligned as I always do whenever I unbolt part of the suspension. Not only does the lift throw off the camber/caster and toe, just the process of taking apart your linkages can have the same effect.
Veteran
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: stafford springs CT
yes the M/T,s rubbed on the inner part of the factory mud flap and a slight "touch" on the front inner fender well. i cut an inch off the flap and pulled the front fender well forward with a zip tie.... i switched recently to A/T,s and they wouldnt have rubber at all......
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: live oak, ca
3in. body, leveling kit, plus about 1 more inch up front, but tires are really small @ 245x75x16, but 33x12.50x18 coming soon
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Veteran
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 403
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,128
Likes: 0
From: edmonton ab
ok im totally jeleaous now ive got the tm level kit sitting in a box right now but ive been trying to find i decent aftermarket shock before i put that in and how much do the body lifts start at i need to get thi **** done
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Gatineau, Qc, Canada
Hey Ridingmark, go to your local 4x4 shop and ask for standard 2 inch lift blocks and ask if they can measure up your axle for new u-bolts. The whole thing shouldn't cost more than about 80 bucks. The blocks themselves will be about 2" tall with a small nub on one side and a hole in the other. This is to accommodate the leaf-pack bolt (you will understand after you get the suspension apart).
To install the blocks simply lift the truck by the frame until the rear wheels are off the ground and support it by the frame using jack stands and support the axle itself with more stands (4 total jackstands). I then removed the wheel on the side I was installing, unbolted the u-bolts and hammered them out. The axle should drop out but might need a bit of coaxing. If like me your axle does not drop far enough to get the block in use your floor jack and a piece of wood to gently compress your leaf pack until there is enough room. Insert the block, let the spring decompress (making sure it lines up with the hole on top of the block) and reinstall the U-bolts. I found a prybar invaluable in my efforts to line up the block and leaf pack/axle. Be creative if it doesn't quite fall back into place perfectly. Repeat procedure for the other side. It is easier if you only do one side at a time because you don't have to worry about the axle rotating on you.
In my experience the nub on the bottom of the lift block was too long and ended up not letting the block sit level on the pad. If this happens you MUST grind it down to make it sit securely as it will not "settle in" with use and could cause a part failure. To do this I used my belt sander but I am sure a file and patience would suffice.
When you install the blocks make sure that the tapered end of the block goes towards the front of the truck.
As for the front kit, I had it re-aligned as I always do whenever I unbolt part of the suspension. Not only does the lift throw off the camber/caster and toe, just the process of taking apart your linkages can have the same effect.
To install the blocks simply lift the truck by the frame until the rear wheels are off the ground and support it by the frame using jack stands and support the axle itself with more stands (4 total jackstands). I then removed the wheel on the side I was installing, unbolted the u-bolts and hammered them out. The axle should drop out but might need a bit of coaxing. If like me your axle does not drop far enough to get the block in use your floor jack and a piece of wood to gently compress your leaf pack until there is enough room. Insert the block, let the spring decompress (making sure it lines up with the hole on top of the block) and reinstall the U-bolts. I found a prybar invaluable in my efforts to line up the block and leaf pack/axle. Be creative if it doesn't quite fall back into place perfectly. Repeat procedure for the other side. It is easier if you only do one side at a time because you don't have to worry about the axle rotating on you.
In my experience the nub on the bottom of the lift block was too long and ended up not letting the block sit level on the pad. If this happens you MUST grind it down to make it sit securely as it will not "settle in" with use and could cause a part failure. To do this I used my belt sander but I am sure a file and patience would suffice.
When you install the blocks make sure that the tapered end of the block goes towards the front of the truck.
As for the front kit, I had it re-aligned as I always do whenever I unbolt part of the suspension. Not only does the lift throw off the camber/caster and toe, just the process of taking apart your linkages can have the same effect.
Cheers!
All Star
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 837
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
