Here are your numbers: My truck is an '07 V8 SLT with no modifications or additions to the electrical system.

Running w/ no accessories - 20-25A
+ Stereo @ medium volume - no noticable change
+ parking lights - 27-29A
+ foglights - 34-36A
+ low beams - 45A
High beams - 39A

Running w low beams/fogs and heat - 59A
+ brakes - 65A

And just for giggles I set the meter to max and started the truck - 250A while cranking.

Looks like the most draw is while running with heat and low beams/fogs while braking at 65A, add in the 33A we talked about and you're at 98A. Upgrade your grill lights to 100W and say another 17A. Still within the limits by 21A, I think you'd be fine, but I wouldn't want to push it much more than that. After all this lighting I hope that would be enough. You definately wouldn't have room to upgrade your stereo or anything like that.

 

awesome though im starting to second thought the grill lights though doing some research piaa makes a 55w bulb that puts out 110w of light.. might be better 60 bucks a set though.

 

Have you ever thought of LEDs?

 

leds generally dont put out enough light to make a difference...

 

do they make LEDs in an H4 or are they H3 I can't remember of the top of my head

 

What do you mean by make a difference?

There doesn't seem to be many LED driving/foglights out there that are of an equivalent to say a 100W bulb, but there are 20W+ equivalents out there. I'd say that's significant enough, especially when they're usage is in the 2W range, and that's why I brought them up, since we are crunching numbers here to stay under the limit. A 20W equivalent LED using 2W of power is better than none at all. In my opinion, the mere wattage usage rating of a light doesn't say much about it's light output. The proper unit to be using for intensity of the lights is lumens, but very few manufacturers use it. If they did, it would show how inefficient their product really is.

 

honestly with the voltage you run I would run the MLA module. Its well worth the money. I am capable of running so much more out of this alt. And This would give you the recharge that your battery will need when your pulling the current from all those lights. I strongly suggest the MLA Module.

 

What's a MLA Module?

I'm running two amps on my stereo system, (and I'm getting a capacitor for those) and then I have the 4-100w driving lights.

we have some #'s for the 4.7 but is the 3.7 a different (less) alt. than the 136 in the V8?

 

I'm not sure about the Dakotas, but my '03 Liberty was a 3.7L and it also had a 136A alternator. I'd assume the trucks would be the same.

 

yes the 3.7 is a denso unit @ 136 A & mla is missing link audio module. its allowed me to get more out of my alt. I see an average of 156 A & 14.9 -15.3 volts. Helps chatge my batts etc & it installs in 20 min's so... very nice little thing. mine was 198 shipped. & its amazing. i have 2 extra batteries And i run a 3000 watt sub stage and i have zero light dimming. infact i have a voltage drop from 14.9 to 14.1 thats it lol its perfect ill snap a few pics & post em here but its about a 2 x 2 x 1(thick) and it reflashes ur computer and allows more amp & voltage when ur vehicle's battery is under a load. but if im driving down the hwy & my batts are charged fully the unit will then switch off and allow the factory's unit back in so u dont cook your batts lol its an amazing unit alot of competitors are using these units with the h/o alt/s because its also capable of running up to 5 alts.

also. i found a lift kit for the truck. its a 2 inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift and should be able to tuck 33's. anyone seen a 3rd gen with some 33's ? i wanna see a good rep for a lifted 3rd gen with some nice AT Tires