Need trailer hitch (2005 Dak 4.7L V8 RWD)
Them surge brakes are fun. Be sure and get a hitch pin that locks the hitch in the receiver, not just pins it. It'll keep the rattle down and save your transmission as well.
The surge brakes take some getting used to to. I towed my son's car on a trailer with them and they were either locking up all the time or dragging my truck backwards. Yes. that seemed odd as the trailers before that didn't seem to have any issues.
The surge brakes take some getting used to to. I towed my son's car on a trailer with them and they were either locking up all the time or dragging my truck backwards. Yes. that seemed odd as the trailers before that didn't seem to have any issues.
Alright folks _ need some more help / advice here as this adventure of adding a hitch and wiring is turning out to be more involved than I thought (also a result of over researching, I suppose).
So for the hitch, I think I'll be good with buying and installing a Class 3 myself (like the Valley one popsnbeer posted from 94rt10ohio (great post BTW!)), but where I'm hung up now is the wiring...
@#$%^@*&@@@!
So, I called the Dodge dealership and they only offer one wiring package for the '05 Dakota, part is $196 and labor is another $300!!! WTF?!? Granted its OEM and it includes both a 7 pin and 4 flat connector, but $500??? Yikes! Note: the mopardodge.com web site only states it has a 7 pin connector, but dealership confirmed it has both. So, that's option # 1 and I believe I would be properly configured for a brake controller later _ should I ever need one.
Option # 2 would be a T-connector off the brake lights for a 4 flat only, which is fine for my immediate need, but later I may end up needing something better like the Dodge OEM one anyway. So, looking for advice on that. Are these T Connectors a cop out? Will I have electrical problems? How do they mount and look good in the back (I've yet to find a harness - only the wires). I've seen the T style for the '05 range from $35 - over $100 depnding on mftr, but I have also read some horror stories on electrical issues with them.
BTW _ U-Haul will do "wiring" for $135 (parts and labor), but I've yet to get clarification on what that includes exactly. I'm going to pay them a visit today to speak with a tech, but if all they're going to do is install a T connector...big deal...
And yes, I am a cheap bastard. So, any thoughts on going one way or another? Obviously I probably can't/shouldn't install the Dodge OEM one myself...
Thanks all!
So for the hitch, I think I'll be good with buying and installing a Class 3 myself (like the Valley one popsnbeer posted from 94rt10ohio (great post BTW!)), but where I'm hung up now is the wiring...
@#$%^@*&@@@!
So, I called the Dodge dealership and they only offer one wiring package for the '05 Dakota, part is $196 and labor is another $300!!! WTF?!? Granted its OEM and it includes both a 7 pin and 4 flat connector, but $500??? Yikes! Note: the mopardodge.com web site only states it has a 7 pin connector, but dealership confirmed it has both. So, that's option # 1 and I believe I would be properly configured for a brake controller later _ should I ever need one.
Option # 2 would be a T-connector off the brake lights for a 4 flat only, which is fine for my immediate need, but later I may end up needing something better like the Dodge OEM one anyway. So, looking for advice on that. Are these T Connectors a cop out? Will I have electrical problems? How do they mount and look good in the back (I've yet to find a harness - only the wires). I've seen the T style for the '05 range from $35 - over $100 depnding on mftr, but I have also read some horror stories on electrical issues with them.
BTW _ U-Haul will do "wiring" for $135 (parts and labor), but I've yet to get clarification on what that includes exactly. I'm going to pay them a visit today to speak with a tech, but if all they're going to do is install a T connector...big deal...
And yes, I am a cheap bastard. So, any thoughts on going one way or another? Obviously I probably can't/shouldn't install the Dodge OEM one myself...
Thanks all!
Last edited by saroni; Jul 7, 2010 at 03:55 PM.
Saroni, I don't know what U-Haul you talked to but I had the wiring on my father's 2007 dak done in 15 minutes for under $60 (parts and install). Yes, it was just the 4-flat connector that taps into the brakelights. I wouldn't do the dodge 7 pin wiring until you need to. There is no problem with the "cheaper" versions. As long as it's getting your trailer lights on, then it's doing its job.
Before this site, I had a different 2006 dak (purchased in 2005) where I went to a place called "quality bumper" out here in Phoenix (Mesa, AZ actually) and they installed the valley hitch and wiring for $302 out the door (including parts).
Before this site, I had a different 2006 dak (purchased in 2005) where I went to a place called "quality bumper" out here in Phoenix (Mesa, AZ actually) and they installed the valley hitch and wiring for $302 out the door (including parts).
Yeah, I called them again (local Uhaul here in Oakland, CA that does hitch installs) and the lady gave me different prices and options on wiring (again) and said, just best to come in and speak to a tech. Their central office were the ones quoting me $135, but they also had no idea what it included (computer simply states "hitch wiriing and accessories, including ball). Some of the prices the lady at the local shop gave me were in the $60 - $75 range, but she had no idea what the end result would be. I'm guessing that they simply splice in a 4 flat connector and mount it. U-Haul trailers have both a 4 flat and 7 pin connector. I'm going to pay them a visit, but I'd rather use a T Connector instead of splicing wire (them or me), I'm just not clear on how you mount the connector to the bumper as I have been unable to find a harness.
At this point I think I'm making much ado about nothing, will pay them a visit and see what's up. The post you forwarded on from the 94rt10ohio subscriber is helpful and I see they installed their own 7 pin connector (guessing they spliced into existing wiring), but I'm not clear on how they mounted it under the bumper nicely like that.
When I attempt to do something myself, especially to my truck, I like to make absolutely sure I can take on the task. Haven't bought any parts yet, so U-Haul will be my first stop!
Really appreciate all your insight!!! Very helpful!!!
At this point I think I'm making much ado about nothing, will pay them a visit and see what's up. The post you forwarded on from the 94rt10ohio subscriber is helpful and I see they installed their own 7 pin connector (guessing they spliced into existing wiring), but I'm not clear on how they mounted it under the bumper nicely like that.
When I attempt to do something myself, especially to my truck, I like to make absolutely sure I can take on the task. Haven't bought any parts yet, so U-Haul will be my first stop!
Really appreciate all your insight!!! Very helpful!!!
Saroni, I don't know what U-Haul you talked to but I had the wiring on my father's 2007 dak done in 15 minutes for under $60 (parts and install). Yes, it was just the 4-flat connector that taps into the brakelights. I wouldn't do the dodge 7 pin wiring until you need to. There is no problem with the "cheaper" versions. As long as it's getting your trailer lights on, then it's doing its job.
Before this site, I had a different 2006 dak (purchased in 2005) where I went to a place called "quality bumper" out here in Phoenix (Mesa, AZ actually) and they installed the valley hitch and wiring for $302 out the door (including parts).
Before this site, I had a different 2006 dak (purchased in 2005) where I went to a place called "quality bumper" out here in Phoenix (Mesa, AZ actually) and they installed the valley hitch and wiring for $302 out the door (including parts).
Ok. When I had my dad's 2007 dak wiring installed at U-haul they just zip tied the wiring up to the bumper. It didn't hang down, but might not be the exact thing you are looking for. When I had my older 2006 dak wiring done (at Quality Bumper in Mesa, AZ) they had a handy little mount that they screwed into my bumper. It made it look a bit more permanent. Maybe check and see if there is a "quality bumper" in your area.
To have a 3.92 rear end you have to have the heavy duty factory tow package on the SLT or Laramie trim. The ST tow package only comes with a 3.73 rear end, and standard without tow package I believe is a 3.55.
I run a 3.92 due to towing a 19' hybrid travel trailer, which when loaded for a weekend of camping weighs around 3800-4000 pounds. It's a workout for my Dakota. I do use a Prodigy P2 brake controller and weight distribution hitch with sway control.
Remember, you can never be too safe when it comes to towing. Be well equipped, use good equipment, and watch your gauges, especially the temp!
I run a 3.92 due to towing a 19' hybrid travel trailer, which when loaded for a weekend of camping weighs around 3800-4000 pounds. It's a workout for my Dakota. I do use a Prodigy P2 brake controller and weight distribution hitch with sway control.
Remember, you can never be too safe when it comes to towing. Be well equipped, use good equipment, and watch your gauges, especially the temp!
Thanks for the info '06RedDak!
Agree you need to be well prepared to safely tow any trailer. For now, I think I have all the necessary details to get a receiver and wiring for a standard U-Haul trailer that I don't expect to exceed 2,500 lbs loaded (trailer is 900 lbs. empty). Can't avoid towing one, but am trying to go light since I'm going across the country.
After reading all the reviews, I don't trust the bumper version and this way I'll be well equipped for a decent size trailer later too. Down the road I'll look into what my gear ratio is as well as adding better wiring for a brake controller, but I suspect you are right _ it is probably 3.55 (I have a SLT w/ no tow package). Given my current needs and comm. with everyone here, I'm confident I can get all the necessary parts and do it myself _ thanks to everyone here on the forum!!!
Agree you need to be well prepared to safely tow any trailer. For now, I think I have all the necessary details to get a receiver and wiring for a standard U-Haul trailer that I don't expect to exceed 2,500 lbs loaded (trailer is 900 lbs. empty). Can't avoid towing one, but am trying to go light since I'm going across the country.
After reading all the reviews, I don't trust the bumper version and this way I'll be well equipped for a decent size trailer later too. Down the road I'll look into what my gear ratio is as well as adding better wiring for a brake controller, but I suspect you are right _ it is probably 3.55 (I have a SLT w/ no tow package). Given my current needs and comm. with everyone here, I'm confident I can get all the necessary parts and do it myself _ thanks to everyone here on the forum!!!
To have a 3.92 rear end you have to have the heavy duty factory tow package on the SLT or Laramie trim. The ST tow package only comes with a 3.73 rear end, and standard without tow package I believe is a 3.55.
I run a 3.92 due to towing a 19' hybrid travel trailer, which when loaded for a weekend of camping weighs around 3800-4000 pounds. It's a workout for my Dakota. I do use a Prodigy P2 brake controller and weight distribution hitch with sway control.
Remember, you can never be too safe when it comes to towing. Be well equipped, use good equipment, and watch your gauges, especially the temp!
I run a 3.92 due to towing a 19' hybrid travel trailer, which when loaded for a weekend of camping weighs around 3800-4000 pounds. It's a workout for my Dakota. I do use a Prodigy P2 brake controller and weight distribution hitch with sway control.
Remember, you can never be too safe when it comes to towing. Be well equipped, use good equipment, and watch your gauges, especially the temp!
Last edited by saroni; Jul 14, 2010 at 11:05 PM.


