Hey guys,
So I bought a ported and polished TB a couple months ago but had a problem with the idle hanging when the engine was warm. I would get an idle around 1200 RPMs or so, and it wouldnt come down until I revved the engine in Park or Nuetral. I replaced the TB gasket, IAC, and TPS and it still did the same thing. I reset the computer by pulling the battery cable with the key in the On position, and still no luck. I finally just removed the TB thinking it was defective and put the stock one back on. The problem went away.
Now I bought a Fastman! I was happy to get it on last night, and it looks awesome. Drove to work today, and the same problem is back. Its doing the same exact thing that the other TB was doing with the idle, and it will come back to normal with a rev or two to 3k. I called Dan and he said I need to get the computer to reset.
I have already pulled pcm fuses and done a "throttle sweep" with the key in the On position, but that didnt help. He mentioned just leaving the key in the On position, removing the battery cable and replacing it, and doing a "throttle sweep" like that. Another option was to remove the negative battery cable and for a split second, touch it to the positive cable. He said people dont like doing this though because its shorting out the computer. Otherwise, he said try driving through it for it to try and re correct itself.
My question is; what is the best way to do a hard reset? Or should I just drive with the idle problem in hopes that it will correct itself? I really want to keep my new Fastman on the truck. I already have a ported TB sitting in the basement which I found out is now just fine. For the money I have spent on this, I could have gotten a F&B billet. Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys.
So I bought a ported and polished TB a couple months ago but had a problem with the idle hanging when the engine was warm. I would get an idle around 1200 RPMs or so, and it wouldnt come down until I revved the engine in Park or Nuetral. I replaced the TB gasket, IAC, and TPS and it still did the same thing. I reset the computer by pulling the battery cable with the key in the On position, and still no luck. I finally just removed the TB thinking it was defective and put the stock one back on. The problem went away.
Now I bought a Fastman! I was happy to get it on last night, and it looks awesome. Drove to work today, and the same problem is back. Its doing the same exact thing that the other TB was doing with the idle, and it will come back to normal with a rev or two to 3k. I called Dan and he said I need to get the computer to reset.
I have already pulled pcm fuses and done a "throttle sweep" with the key in the On position, but that didnt help. He mentioned just leaving the key in the On position, removing the battery cable and replacing it, and doing a "throttle sweep" like that. Another option was to remove the negative battery cable and for a split second, touch it to the positive cable. He said people dont like doing this though because its shorting out the computer. Otherwise, he said try driving through it for it to try and re correct itself.
My question is; what is the best way to do a hard reset? Or should I just drive with the idle problem in hopes that it will correct itself? I really want to keep my new Fastman on the truck. I already have a ported TB sitting in the basement which I found out is now just fine. For the money I have spent on this, I could have gotten a F&B billet. Any input is appreciated. Thanks guys.
Veteran
Real short version...
Remove POSITIVE cable from battery
Touch cable end just removed to the frame or other grounding point. Not battery
Wait 30 seconds to be sure
Reconnect
Start
Let idle for a min
Drive like a "normal person" for a bit
Need any more help, let me know. I am the person (Tech) who brought this method to light on this and the DT boards.
Remove POSITIVE cable from battery
Touch cable end just removed to the frame or other grounding point. Not battery
Wait 30 seconds to be sure
Reconnect
Start
Let idle for a min
Drive like a "normal person" for a bit
Need any more help, let me know. I am the person (Tech) who brought this method to light on this and the DT boards.
Alright, I pulled the battery cable off with the ign in the on position. Touched it to the frame, waited a little bit and reconnected it. Let it idle for 5 minutes and turned if off while I ate lunch. Restarted and drove to work with no problems.
Driving normal is harder than it looks!
Hopefully it works out. Thanks for your help, Njjer!
Driving normal is harder than it looks!
Hopefully it works out. Thanks for your help, Njjer!
One more question:
How long do I have to drive normal to be safe?
I have noticed the computer starting to learn the conservative driving style. With my SC tuner, I would never shift out of 1st and 2nd till about 3k RPM, and now I shift out of 1st at 2500 rpm and 2nd at 2000 rpm. I just want my idle to be fixed so how ever long it takes, I will keep my foot out of it.
How long do I have to drive normal to be safe?
I have noticed the computer starting to learn the conservative driving style. With my SC tuner, I would never shift out of 1st and 2nd till about 3k RPM, and now I shift out of 1st at 2500 rpm and 2nd at 2000 rpm. I just want my idle to be fixed so how ever long it takes, I will keep my foot out of it.
Veteran
I will see if I can get this to come out and not sound like a long speech.
The ECU is adaptive,,,,, to a point. It will always re-learn as you drive. So what I would do is drive "normal" for the first 500 miles and during that time lightly get on it as if you just went thru your break-in period. After that, drive it how you want. The ECU will adapt always, so if by chance say someone borrows the truck for a week, it will adapt to them also. Again, to a point.
One thing about larger throttle bodies, they will help in the upper rpm ranges, but at lower rpm expense. They slow down the airflow velocity and your truck may act lazy because of it. Larger throttle bodies only really help with forced induction. This is not new info, just something most fail to mention.
Example: On a Viper, installing a larger throttle body will cost the engine HP and TQ. Only when you start to use forced induction will it show its worth. Now if a 500hp engine can't use a bigger throttle body, what will it do for our "little" engines.
Now this is from experiance i am talking. I build race engines for a living, and my customers depend on me giving them hp they can use. Not just some double-talk and sell them parts.
The ECU is adaptive,,,,, to a point. It will always re-learn as you drive. So what I would do is drive "normal" for the first 500 miles and during that time lightly get on it as if you just went thru your break-in period. After that, drive it how you want. The ECU will adapt always, so if by chance say someone borrows the truck for a week, it will adapt to them also. Again, to a point.
One thing about larger throttle bodies, they will help in the upper rpm ranges, but at lower rpm expense. They slow down the airflow velocity and your truck may act lazy because of it. Larger throttle bodies only really help with forced induction. This is not new info, just something most fail to mention.
Example: On a Viper, installing a larger throttle body will cost the engine HP and TQ. Only when you start to use forced induction will it show its worth. Now if a 500hp engine can't use a bigger throttle body, what will it do for our "little" engines.
Now this is from experiance i am talking. I build race engines for a living, and my customers depend on me giving them hp they can use. Not just some double-talk and sell them parts.