just dont get it
#21
08-05-2010, 10:18 PM
I did when the head gasket failed due to radiator fluid running down the side of the block. Until then, no.
With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Fill the radiator tube to the top. Start the truck and watch for bubbles to purge from the system. Continue to fill as the bubbles purge out. After about a minute or two kill the truck and put the cap back on. The next day repeat until the fluid is at the cap level.
There is also a radiator bleeder valve that Dodgetrucker mentioned. You can use that. Good luck.
With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Fill the radiator tube to the top. Start the truck and watch for bubbles to purge from the system. Continue to fill as the bubbles purge out. After about a minute or two kill the truck and put the cap back on. The next day repeat until the fluid is at the cap level.
There is also a radiator bleeder valve that Dodgetrucker mentioned. You can use that. Good luck.
#22
08-05-2010, 10:24 PM
#23
08-05-2010, 10:30 PM
LMAO, I love you like a brother man.
hendrixx324, its great having Travis around. He goes along and even helps out with all of my crazy idea, lol. One other thing, my fan has a high and low mode. The SPAL controls the fan's rpm levels taking it from high to low. I'm not sure what RPM level yours is running at.
hendrixx324, its great having Travis around. He goes along and even helps out with all of my crazy idea, lol. One other thing, my fan has a high and low mode. The SPAL controls the fan's rpm levels taking it from high to low. I'm not sure what RPM level yours is running at.
Last edited by Blown287; 08-05-2010 at 10:48 PM.
#24
08-05-2010, 10:33 PM
#25
08-07-2010, 12:48 AM
#26
08-07-2010, 01:20 AM
#27
08-07-2010, 02:18 AM
That is good news brother. Anytime you remove things like water pumps there is usually air trapped in the system. Just keep doing it until the top stays full. That should put an end to your overheating issues!
#29
08-07-2010, 12:08 PM