3rd Gen Dakota 2005 - 2011 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 3rd Gen Dakota.

how to change Sway bar links

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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rbarilla88
Hello. I know this is an old forum. I just got my dodge Dakota 2005, When I purchased this vehicle from the dealer the parking lot was filled with rock and pot holes. I noticed when it would bounce it would make a squeaky sound. Since I have been driving it a few days I don't hear it anymore. My friend that is a mechanic advised me to change these with 53k miles on it that they are prone to go... Should this be regular maintenance on this vehicle? I can have them today by napa for $23 each. I plan on either installing these this weekend and/or greasing the suspension front and rear. What are your thoughts? The bushings don't look busted. The bottom bushing looks almost completely squashed.

Few questions (never change sway links before):
-Bottom nut, first on, how do I know where to set it?
-I read a forum that said 25 PSI top and 80 PSI bottom, is this with an air wrench? Can they properly be torqued with air?
Very easy to do. Just unbolt the old ones and install the new ones. Go with poly bushings if you can. Should only have to replace once unless you are into extreme 4-wheeling. As for torque specs, I just tightened mine down until the bushings were slightly compressed. Worked great.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 04:11 PM
  #32  
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Just an FYI... if you don't torque the bottom nut properly it will snap. Bottom should be torqued to 125 ft lbs and the upper should be 27 ft lbs.
 
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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:38 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by rbarilla88

Few questions (never change sway links before):
-Bottom nut, first on, how do I know where to set it?
-I read a forum that said 25 PSI top and 80 PSI bottom, is this with an air wrench? Can they properly be torqued with air?

Good timing, this week I've been replacing my upper strut mount, which of course required taking everything else apart...

Make sure you get the torque specs for the front and not the rear, because they are different. the nut on top (that connects the sway bar to the end links) is only 27 Foot Lbs. Torque. The bottom nut (that connects the sway bar links to the Lower Control Arm) is 125 Foot Lbs. Torque. Here is a pic from my Haynes Manual.

74F2F11E-3837-44FE-BD60-B62153227FFD-3444-000003CB07D54340.jpg

I wouldn't use an impact gun to put these on or torque them down. A ratchet should work just fine, but in order to torque them down correctly you have to use a torque wrench. If you don't have one, I would definitely pick one up. If I was working on engine components that require very fine and accurate torque specs I could justify spending over $150 on a good one, but for stuff like this, you can get away with getting a cheaper one from Harbor Freight. Just make sure of a couple things... First that it is strong enough for your application (some torque wrenches only go up to 80 foot lbs). Also, pay attention if it is measuring foot lbs or inch pounds (inch lbs X 12 = Foot lbs.)
 
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Old May 18, 2013 | 04:28 PM
  #34  
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Installed using a torque wrench... When I went to go pick up the parts they quoted me $23 but charged me $30 a piece still have the squeak when driving :/ waste of $60....
 
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Old May 18, 2013 | 07:11 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rbarilla88
Installed using a torque wrench... When I went to go pick up the parts they quoted me $23 but charged me $30 a piece still have the squeak when driving :/ waste of $60....

I wouldn't say it was a waste (if they indeed were not the issue), chances are after a year or so you probably would have had to replace them anyway, and if you purchased some decent aftermarket ones, they will probably be better than the originals. If you're still having some "squeaking" in your front end there are a few things you can do.
First, try and see if there are any other symptoms (other than just squeaking), i.e. pulling to one side or the other before/during/after braking, any shaking or vibrations at highway speeds, and if there is any rattling or any noises when going over bumps or rough road. Those kinds of things can help pin point where the issue may be coming from. Even if you cannot diagnose it yourself, info like that can maybe help someone on the forum help you figure it out. Another thing you can try is lubing up parts of your suspension with some lithium grease spray (but I would suggest that after going to a DIY car wash place and making sure you clean everything off very well). If any of your suspension parts have grease-able fittings (like tie rod ends, upper/lower control arms, et cetera) make sure that they are refilled. While you're at it, inspect the boots on the suspension parts for signs of wear, rips, or maybe gone completely. Bounce your truck up and down and side to side above each wheel...if the bounce or roll is excessive, that could also be a sign that you need new shocks or struts. If your calipers have an excessive amount of rust on them, you might have to clean them up (possibly get new brake pads too if it's been awhile). Check your leaf springs and make sure the shackles holding them together are still snug ( if the have rust buildup too, clean that out also). That make seem like a lot, but if you take the time it'll be worth it, plus not only will you probably find the problem...you may also find other issues that should be addressed as well. Depending on where you live and how harsh of a winter you had, all these things should be inspected on e the winter season is over, because all the cold, snow, ice and salt can reek havoc on you suspension.
 
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Old May 19, 2013 | 09:07 AM
  #36  
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Ball joints can cause squeaking.
 
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Old May 29, 2013 | 07:21 AM
  #37  
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I am not sure what it is. It has been rainy here the last few days and the squeaking is getting worse. It almost sounds like its coming from the rear. I opened the back window and it was louder. I cannot pin point the sound. When I bounce the truck up and down there is no squeak. I may go jack the truck up this weekend to see if I can locate where its coming from. Almost sounds like multiple locations. I am thinking maybe the bushings on the sway bar... OR they put an Gibson dual exhaust on it (previous owner) maybe its the bushings they used on this.

It sounds just like this:
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #38  
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Steering wheel is turns to the left when driving maybe it is a ball joint. Sounds like the passenger front... But what would be the squeak in the rear? The links in the rear have play should they?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 06:48 AM
  #39  
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Changed Brakes yesterday, noticed the passenger tie rod end ball joint boot was ripped in half... Going to replace this with a napa part. Hopefully this was the sound I was hearing.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #40  
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Default Sway bar links

Anyone know how long the sway bar links are on a 2008 Dakota? I put some spacers in the strut to raise it but it's pulling on the sway bar now that the control arm is extended, I wanted to put an inch or so longer link to correct the issue. Is the measurement total length or just inside length?
 
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