In the near future, I want to install sound deadener or Lizardskin in my truck to reduce some of the noise (gear whine, tire whine, etc). There are probably Do's and Don'ts and good advice available since I think at least one thread in the past referred to removing interior parts.
My Dak is a QC and probably the best place to start is in the rear.
Do any of you have any advice for me ? I would certainly appreciate it before I get started.

 

I'm probably not going to write out a step by step, but I have soundproofed my club cab and would be willing to answer any specific questions.

Overall advice is to not rush it, but it's fairly self evident as you go.. I'm not familiar with the products you want to use, but take your time and make sure you get good adhesion with any damping materials especially. Know what to expect from different products.

It's somewhat fragile but I'm glad I took down the headliner to do the roof too, including adding heat insulation.

Also, make sure you know the difference between a sound deadener, a sound absorber, what to expect from each and why you should use both to get good results.


I wouldn't waste time adding deadener to the entire floor (or anywhere else, really), it just isn't needed. Add some strips in strategic places. After you get 25% coverage with a dynamat style product, the improvement to $$ ratio goes down really quickly...but that first 25%, if applied correctly and strategically, will make a huge difference.

There is no way I would mess with the roll-on/liquid products for this application. The butyl sheets work great and are much easier to work with. Add in some sound absorbing layers of some sort and you will likely be very happy. Realize that no matter how quiet you get the sheet metal, there is still a lot of glass there which transmits sound very easily so the diminishing returns thing happens pretty quickly.

Not extremely hepful for you, but here's a thread I started on my project with some pics on the second page. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...er-inside.html

 

Thanks for the info TDISTER.
What I was hoping for is some hints about how to remove the interior like door panels, seats, trim, etc.

 

removing door panels isn't difficult. The front panels are four screws. (two on the bottom, one in the handle that you use to shut the door, one behind the latch). Pull straight up and then disconnect power windows, lock etc; There is a rod that goes to the latch. Spin the clip (white/beige plastic) towards the door and pull the rod up ( you will see what I am talking about). Not to sure about the rears though. Seats just bolt to the floor (front) again not to sure about the back. Hope this helps!

 

The interior really is pretty straightforward. Wanted to emphasize that you pull up on the door panels once they are unscrewed, not out.

The sill covers/carpet trim just pull straight up., but one of mine broke a clip even being careful.

The headliner removal may be a huge pain on the QC as it has B pillars. Have a helper if you can and wear some gloves to help keep it clean.

I don't remember needing any out of the ordinary tools, but I believe the seatbelts need a rather large star bit if you want to remove them.

My first post included more info on the materials because dynamat, rubberized undercoating and Lizard skin are dampers, not sound deadeners, and won't help all that much with tire and gear whine that you want to reduce. You need to also use a sound deadening layer for that (dense foam/jute).

You may have already known that but I've recently witnessed a couple of sloppy and/or poorly executed soundproofing jobs that made drastically little difference.

 

So tdister, it looks like you used 3 layers on your floor - 1)Dynamat 2) Frost King 3) Underlayment
Is the Frost King you used the stuff they sell at Lowe's for heat/ac ducts ? How thick is it ? Where do you get the underlayment from ?

 

Correct on the layering.

Carpet (with factory sound absorber stuck to it)
Underlayment
Frost king
Dynamat
Sheetmetal

Frost king from Lowe's, yes. It's intended for wrapping ducting, foil on one side adhesive on the other. It's about 1/8" thick, I believe. It's just what I used and it worked well. It seems to both dampen and adsorb sound. I doubt it's the ideal product but I could get it locally and quickly. I used frost king with near 100% coverage ( with 2 layers on doors, one on skin one under the panel) and dynamat cut into strips and placed strategically as a combo throughout the rest of the cab.

The underlayment also came from Lowe's, intended for use under wood floor installations. It's not at all flexible/malleable and you will definitely need some decent scissors/blade for cutting it up to form fit it. Maybe a bit of tape to help piece it together on the floor. It needs to be cut up for sure or you'd never get the carpet back down. Cheap, easy to get and works great. I used underlayment only on the floor