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Blown fuse for park lights

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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Default Blown fuse for park lights

I noticed that my right front park light was out, then someone told me the rear park light was out too. Took some digging to find out that the right and left side lights are fused separately. I checked the socket for the tail light and noticed alot of corrosion on the tabs. Cleaned it and tried a new fuse. It started smoking then blew the fuse, so I knew I was on the right track. Ordered a new socket and all is working fine. If anyone has run into this problem, and it's likely they have given the design of the socket and the rear quarter panel, then the new socket will work better, as it's designed differently. I think Chrysler knows that the original design was flawed. Asked the parts guy if they sell many of them and he replied, "tons", but said they aren't all for the same vehicle. I don't think that matters, as the original design allows water into the socket which leads to the corrosion, then the shorting of the tabs. This picture shows the original design. The new socket doesn't have this hole in it, which I believe is a breather hole. The box on these trucks doesn't have a guard to prevent road crap from coating the upper inside around the tail lights. I owned a Chevy truck before, and they at least used a rubber flap to prevent this junk from washing up that far. One long road trip through lots of salt and snow and it's swimming in it. So, if you find that your left, or right side park lights, or even turn signals are malfunctioning, don't just assume the fuse has blown, it probably has, but the problem could be the socket itself, and most likely the rear socket. It'll save you alot of wiring diagrams and troubleshooting grief.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 01:30 PM
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Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I wonder if a bit of silicone in that hole might be a good preventative measure.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Robk1971
Thanks for the tip. I wonder if a bit of silicone in that hole might be a good preventative measure.
I bet it either help or hurt it worse by keep the moisture longer...
 
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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Dielectric grease is what you need to use, first day I got my truck, I pulled all the lights and sensors that I could get to and put some in every connection
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 10:29 PM
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Wow love thread digging, I was having this problem fuse kept blowing for my driver rear parking light. I am going to dealer tomorrow. Keep em crossed
 
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Old May 29, 2012 | 11:34 PM
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I got a 4 Sockets (2xReverse and 2xBrake/Parking) with the Tails I bought for $30. Also got the bulbs lol
 
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Old May 30, 2012 | 01:32 AM
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I bought some cheap rubber sheets at Home Depot and stuck them in behind the rear lights when I pulled them to paint. I noticed the amount of mud and gunk back there I knew it couldn't be good. With the amout of off road driving I do, it was a good investment.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 11:16 AM
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Well, I am hosed, Before I even tried getting the new socket, I tried unplugging the old one, inserted a new fuse and turned on the lights. Pop fuse gone. Which means I have a bad ground somewhere in my driver side driving lights wiring. Yay... Oh wait,... Fuhk me :-( So now today my Mechanic gets to start the process of working thru my loom to find the short. Pray he can find the issue.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 10:36 AM
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Well it ends up it was the recently purchased t10 wedge LEDs I bought for my license plate lights were causing the short. Whew definitely saved me on having to spend alot of loot, but 3 hours of my life wasted figuring out where the issue was. good times.
 
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