Vinyl Carpeting
#1
04-27-2011, 11:04 AM
Vinyl Carpeting
So on my quest for bragging rights as the first twin turbo Raider 
i have ignored my interior quite a bit.
I live in a pretty rural area and my truck does a lot of work, therefore my carpet is begining to look like ****.
Maybe its time to upgrade to a vynil carpeting and I have found several sites that basically sell the mold ready to be installed with just a bit of trimming.
Anyone here with experience switching out their carpets? Seems pretty straighforward.
VinylFlooring.jpg
i have ignored my interior quite a bit.I live in a pretty rural area and my truck does a lot of work, therefore my carpet is begining to look like ****.
Maybe its time to upgrade to a vynil carpeting and I have found several sites that basically sell the mold ready to be installed with just a bit of trimming.
Anyone here with experience switching out their carpets? Seems pretty straighforward.
VinylFlooring.jpg
#4
04-27-2011, 03:19 PM
All Star
I stripped my interior completely a couple months ago when I was installing my stereo system. It was the first time I got that deep into her, but still only took about 45 min to get everything out and pull the carpet.
You're correct it is pretty straight forward, but a Haynes manual helped a little.
When it comes to re-installing new carpet or vinyl flooring the biggest thing to remember is what connectors get pulled up thru and where (but it's not hard). One thing that helps is once you get all the seats out take a picture of the bare carpet and what is pulled through and where. Also, take the time to lay out all the nuts, bolts and screws you remove neatly and if needed label which ones go where. Also, double check before you get started that you have all the right tools to remove everything (its a pain if you have half your truck torn apart and need to run to the hardware store). Most of the nuts and bolts will come out with some basic phillips screw drivers and a good socket set (if I remember correctly the seats use 2 different bolt sizes and I think one is an 18mm and the other is a 15mm, but double check and you might need a #45 Torx bit for the seat belts and a few others)
DON'T THROW AWAY THE OLD CARPETING JUST YET!!!
Take your old carpeting and lay it over the new and mark with a pen or marker where the holes are that you are going to have to cut for the cables that pull through and for the bolts that holds the seats in.
In regards to the airbag warning lights that Jkeaton mentioned, first make sure (AND DOUBLE CHECK) that you hook everything back up that you unplug. The best way to do this is to write down on a note pad anything you unplug as you unplug it and then cross it off as you hook it back up. I made that mistake and forgot to plug in the little airbag warning light on the dash behind the radio bezel and it took me forever to figure out that was the problem. As long as you hook everything back up correctly, you probably won't have to go to the dealership to have them recalibrate the load cell sensor in the passenger seat, but if you want to make sure go right ahead.
Almost forgot 2 things:
1. Before you unplug anything disconnect the battery and wait 30 minutes, this will allow any charge that is built up in your trucks electrical system to dissipate and help prevent the airbags from accidentally being set off (I heard it has been known to happen if a spark of surge goes through). Then when you are done hooking everything else back up, wait another few minutes before you reconnect the battery. Apparently, from what I have been told, by disconnecting the battery, if you have any warning lights that are on or would come on because you unplug something, this will reset the trucks computer and erase the codes.
2. When removing the center console (if you haven't before and your Raider is the same as ours), remove the rubber bottoms in the cup holders to reveal the screws and also the bottom plate inside lifts out as well. Once you remove all the screws, keep in mind that the cig adapter inside is plugged in underneath and you have to be careful tilting it over to unplug it without yanking on the cords too hard. Removing both front seats first, will make this a lot easier so you can just lay it on its side.
Well, thats about it. If you have any other questions lemme know. On a side note, I cleaned my carpet a bit before I put it back in and it took a lot of the smell out, but this summer I plan to dynamat my interior, so when I take it out then I will probably steam clean it. Overall, my carpet doesn't get too messed up cuz I have the Weathertech Digital matts and they are awesome! Not only do they protect well and cover everything very cleanly, when they are filthy its not hard to just use a little Westleys bleach white and they are like new. Just a thought, might be able clean your carpet and save it (maybe paint it with carpet spray paint) and be cheaper to get good matts.
Lemme know how it goes.
You're correct it is pretty straight forward, but a Haynes manual helped a little.
When it comes to re-installing new carpet or vinyl flooring the biggest thing to remember is what connectors get pulled up thru and where (but it's not hard). One thing that helps is once you get all the seats out take a picture of the bare carpet and what is pulled through and where. Also, take the time to lay out all the nuts, bolts and screws you remove neatly and if needed label which ones go where. Also, double check before you get started that you have all the right tools to remove everything (its a pain if you have half your truck torn apart and need to run to the hardware store). Most of the nuts and bolts will come out with some basic phillips screw drivers and a good socket set (if I remember correctly the seats use 2 different bolt sizes and I think one is an 18mm and the other is a 15mm, but double check and you might need a #45 Torx bit for the seat belts and a few others)
DON'T THROW AWAY THE OLD CARPETING JUST YET!!!
Take your old carpeting and lay it over the new and mark with a pen or marker where the holes are that you are going to have to cut for the cables that pull through and for the bolts that holds the seats in.
In regards to the airbag warning lights that Jkeaton mentioned, first make sure (AND DOUBLE CHECK) that you hook everything back up that you unplug. The best way to do this is to write down on a note pad anything you unplug as you unplug it and then cross it off as you hook it back up. I made that mistake and forgot to plug in the little airbag warning light on the dash behind the radio bezel and it took me forever to figure out that was the problem. As long as you hook everything back up correctly, you probably won't have to go to the dealership to have them recalibrate the load cell sensor in the passenger seat, but if you want to make sure go right ahead.
Almost forgot 2 things:
1. Before you unplug anything disconnect the battery and wait 30 minutes, this will allow any charge that is built up in your trucks electrical system to dissipate and help prevent the airbags from accidentally being set off (I heard it has been known to happen if a spark of surge goes through). Then when you are done hooking everything else back up, wait another few minutes before you reconnect the battery. Apparently, from what I have been told, by disconnecting the battery, if you have any warning lights that are on or would come on because you unplug something, this will reset the trucks computer and erase the codes.
2. When removing the center console (if you haven't before and your Raider is the same as ours), remove the rubber bottoms in the cup holders to reveal the screws and also the bottom plate inside lifts out as well. Once you remove all the screws, keep in mind that the cig adapter inside is plugged in underneath and you have to be careful tilting it over to unplug it without yanking on the cords too hard. Removing both front seats first, will make this a lot easier so you can just lay it on its side.
Well, thats about it. If you have any other questions lemme know. On a side note, I cleaned my carpet a bit before I put it back in and it took a lot of the smell out, but this summer I plan to dynamat my interior, so when I take it out then I will probably steam clean it. Overall, my carpet doesn't get too messed up cuz I have the Weathertech Digital matts and they are awesome! Not only do they protect well and cover everything very cleanly, when they are filthy its not hard to just use a little Westleys bleach white and they are like new. Just a thought, might be able clean your carpet and save it (maybe paint it with carpet spray paint) and be cheaper to get good matts.
Lemme know how it goes.
Last edited by italiandominator; 04-27-2011 at 03:25 PM.
#5
04-27-2011, 03:28 PM
All Star
#7
04-28-2011, 07:42 AM
A twin turbo set-up would actually be a lot easier to accomplish in our trucks than merging our pipes to a single turbo. Im not making any moves until i find all the necessary parts, including a stand alone comp system which runs about $1300 used.
If you don't want to get involved with a lot of custom work to make the turbos fit then a supercharger its your best bet since its essentially a bolt-on kit.
However unlike superchargers, turbo kits are know to improve hp by 100% +
But just remember that no matter which route you take, boosting will be really expensive. Wait let me emphasize… REALLY REALLY expensive.
Good thing I have no kids =)
here is a dancing bird
Trending Topics
#8
04-28-2011, 07:45 AM
I stripped my interior completely a couple months ago when I was installing my stereo system. It was the first time I got that deep into her, but still only took about 45 min to get everything out and pull the carpet.
You're correct it is pretty straight forward, but a Haynes manual helped a little.
When it comes to re-installing new carpet or vinyl flooring the biggest thing to remember is what connectors get pulled up thru and where (but it's not hard). One thing that helps is once you get all the seats out take a picture of the bare carpet and what is pulled through and where. Also, take the time to lay out all the nuts, bolts and screws you remove neatly and if needed label which ones go where. Also, double check before you get started that you have all the right tools to remove everything (its a pain if you have half your truck torn apart and need to run to the hardware store). Most of the nuts and bolts will come out with some basic phillips screw drivers and a good socket set (if I remember correctly the seats use 2 different bolt sizes and I think one is an 18mm and the other is a 15mm, but double check and you might need a #45 Torx bit for the seat belts and a few others)
DON'T THROW AWAY THE OLD CARPETING JUST YET!!!
Take your old carpeting and lay it over the new and mark with a pen or marker where the holes are that you are going to have to cut for the cables that pull through and for the bolts that holds the seats in.
In regards to the airbag warning lights that Jkeaton mentioned, first make sure (AND DOUBLE CHECK) that you hook everything back up that you unplug. The best way to do this is to write down on a note pad anything you unplug as you unplug it and then cross it off as you hook it back up. I made that mistake and forgot to plug in the little airbag warning light on the dash behind the radio bezel and it took me forever to figure out that was the problem. As long as you hook everything back up correctly, you probably won't have to go to the dealership to have them recalibrate the load cell sensor in the passenger seat, but if you want to make sure go right ahead.
Almost forgot 2 things:
1. Before you unplug anything disconnect the battery and wait 30 minutes, this will allow any charge that is built up in your trucks electrical system to dissipate and help prevent the airbags from accidentally being set off (I heard it has been known to happen if a spark of surge goes through). Then when you are done hooking everything else back up, wait another few minutes before you reconnect the battery. Apparently, from what I have been told, by disconnecting the battery, if you have any warning lights that are on or would come on because you unplug something, this will reset the trucks computer and erase the codes.
2. When removing the center console (if you haven't before and your Raider is the same as ours), remove the rubber bottoms in the cup holders to reveal the screws and also the bottom plate inside lifts out as well. Once you remove all the screws, keep in mind that the cig adapter inside is plugged in underneath and you have to be careful tilting it over to unplug it without yanking on the cords too hard. Removing both front seats first, will make this a lot easier so you can just lay it on its side.
Well, thats about it. If you have any other questions lemme know. On a side note, I cleaned my carpet a bit before I put it back in and it took a lot of the smell out, but this summer I plan to dynamat my interior, so when I take it out then I will probably steam clean it. Overall, my carpet doesn't get too messed up cuz I have the Weathertech Digital matts and they are awesome! Not only do they protect well and cover everything very cleanly, when they are filthy its not hard to just use a little Westleys bleach white and they are like new. Just a thought, might be able clean your carpet and save it (maybe paint it with carpet spray paint) and be cheaper to get good matts.
Lemme know how it goes.
You're correct it is pretty straight forward, but a Haynes manual helped a little.
When it comes to re-installing new carpet or vinyl flooring the biggest thing to remember is what connectors get pulled up thru and where (but it's not hard). One thing that helps is once you get all the seats out take a picture of the bare carpet and what is pulled through and where. Also, take the time to lay out all the nuts, bolts and screws you remove neatly and if needed label which ones go where. Also, double check before you get started that you have all the right tools to remove everything (its a pain if you have half your truck torn apart and need to run to the hardware store). Most of the nuts and bolts will come out with some basic phillips screw drivers and a good socket set (if I remember correctly the seats use 2 different bolt sizes and I think one is an 18mm and the other is a 15mm, but double check and you might need a #45 Torx bit for the seat belts and a few others)
DON'T THROW AWAY THE OLD CARPETING JUST YET!!!
Take your old carpeting and lay it over the new and mark with a pen or marker where the holes are that you are going to have to cut for the cables that pull through and for the bolts that holds the seats in.
In regards to the airbag warning lights that Jkeaton mentioned, first make sure (AND DOUBLE CHECK) that you hook everything back up that you unplug. The best way to do this is to write down on a note pad anything you unplug as you unplug it and then cross it off as you hook it back up. I made that mistake and forgot to plug in the little airbag warning light on the dash behind the radio bezel and it took me forever to figure out that was the problem. As long as you hook everything back up correctly, you probably won't have to go to the dealership to have them recalibrate the load cell sensor in the passenger seat, but if you want to make sure go right ahead.
Almost forgot 2 things:
1. Before you unplug anything disconnect the battery and wait 30 minutes, this will allow any charge that is built up in your trucks electrical system to dissipate and help prevent the airbags from accidentally being set off (I heard it has been known to happen if a spark of surge goes through). Then when you are done hooking everything else back up, wait another few minutes before you reconnect the battery. Apparently, from what I have been told, by disconnecting the battery, if you have any warning lights that are on or would come on because you unplug something, this will reset the trucks computer and erase the codes.
2. When removing the center console (if you haven't before and your Raider is the same as ours), remove the rubber bottoms in the cup holders to reveal the screws and also the bottom plate inside lifts out as well. Once you remove all the screws, keep in mind that the cig adapter inside is plugged in underneath and you have to be careful tilting it over to unplug it without yanking on the cords too hard. Removing both front seats first, will make this a lot easier so you can just lay it on its side.
Well, thats about it. If you have any other questions lemme know. On a side note, I cleaned my carpet a bit before I put it back in and it took a lot of the smell out, but this summer I plan to dynamat my interior, so when I take it out then I will probably steam clean it. Overall, my carpet doesn't get too messed up cuz I have the Weathertech Digital matts and they are awesome! Not only do they protect well and cover everything very cleanly, when they are filthy its not hard to just use a little Westleys bleach white and they are like new. Just a thought, might be able clean your carpet and save it (maybe paint it with carpet spray paint) and be cheaper to get good matts.
Lemme know how it goes.
#9
04-28-2011, 06:23 PM
All Star
No problem bro, happy to help. I know that the Raiders are exactly the same as our Daks in a lot of ways, but sometimes it's the little differences that are a pain when trying to do a projo or getting a part that "should" be compatible to fit.
I am not tryin to steal this thread and open a can of worms, so everyone else if you have a comment, maybe start a new thread. That being said....to MitsuRaider, in your opinion, having said that boosting is really expensive...which do you think gives you more bang for the buck: Turbo mods or Supercharger mods? When you say "a lot of custom work" with turbo's are you referring to just having to piece them together to install nicely or having to relocate some things under the hood to make space?
I am not tryin to steal this thread and open a can of worms, so everyone else if you have a comment, maybe start a new thread. That being said....to MitsuRaider, in your opinion, having said that boosting is really expensive...which do you think gives you more bang for the buck: Turbo mods or Supercharger mods? When you say "a lot of custom work" with turbo's are you referring to just having to piece them together to install nicely or having to relocate some things under the hood to make space?
#10
04-28-2011, 07:45 PM
Either set up will require a lot of dough and a lot of modifications to your stock engine.
The supercharger is usually a more direct fit but don't underestimate the labor.just look at some of Blowns threads so you can get an idea of all the work involved. I believe he is pushing 300 to the wheels on about 14lbs of boost. That should give an idea of what to expect from the supercharger.
I personally like the turbo set ups for one reason. More horsepower potential. Why? Because the supercharger needs power to make more power vs turbo which recycles your exhaust to make boost.
Keep in mind that if turbo will be your set up you might want to hold off on doing any exhaust work to ur truck because it will require u to merge it with ur turbo set up.
Cost wise they will both set u back around the same. Maybe a bit more labor from the turbo set up, MIG
What I recommend is that you make list of everything required and go from there. start shopping
around.
New
The supercharger is usually a more direct fit but don't underestimate the labor.just look at some of Blowns threads so you can get an idea of all the work involved. I believe he is pushing 300 to the wheels on about 14lbs of boost. That should give an idea of what to expect from the supercharger.
I personally like the turbo set ups for one reason. More horsepower potential. Why? Because the supercharger needs power to make more power vs turbo which recycles your exhaust to make boost.
Keep in mind that if turbo will be your set up you might want to hold off on doing any exhaust work to ur truck because it will require u to merge it with ur turbo set up.
Cost wise they will both set u back around the same. Maybe a bit more labor from the turbo set up, MIG
What I recommend is that you make list of everything required and go from there. start shopping
around.
New