Is There a Machinist in the House?
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Professional
Joined: May 2011
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From: New Milford, CT
Is There a Machinist in the House?
Preferably in western Connecticut?
I won't bore you with WHY I need it, but I need a trailer ball with a COARSE-THREADED 3/4 x 2.5" shank -- and this doesn't seem to exist. Everyone has gone to fine thread these days.
So, if I score an appropriate ball (or one of those adapta-ball, converta-ball or selecta-ball things) with a 1" shank, can you chuck it in a lathe for me, turn it down to 3/4", and then thread it 3/4-10?
That's what I need. None of the automotive machine shops I've checked are able or willing.
I won't bore you with WHY I need it, but I need a trailer ball with a COARSE-THREADED 3/4 x 2.5" shank -- and this doesn't seem to exist. Everyone has gone to fine thread these days.
So, if I score an appropriate ball (or one of those adapta-ball, converta-ball or selecta-ball things) with a 1" shank, can you chuck it in a lathe for me, turn it down to 3/4", and then thread it 3/4-10?
That's what I need. None of the automotive machine shops I've checked are able or willing.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 131
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From: New Milford, CT
I recently installed a Curt Mfg #13229 Class III receiver hitch on my newly-acquired 2005 Dakota.
As you can see, it's really only HALF of a conventional hitch design, as the cross-member is factory-installed. It bolts to the existing cross member, and it also bolts DOWN through the step bumper into that threaded boss.
Right now I have a 3/4 x 2.5" hex head bolt doing that job. But I thought it would be convenient to have a light-duty ball there -- for quick and dirty light-service towing.
Coarse-threaded trailer ***** are simply not to be found, however. Hence my desire to MAKE one. And if I'm going to do it (or hire it done), I figure I might as well make it one of those "convertible" styles, so as to have both 2" and 1-7/8" at my disposal.
As you can see, it's really only HALF of a conventional hitch design, as the cross-member is factory-installed. It bolts to the existing cross member, and it also bolts DOWN through the step bumper into that threaded boss.
Right now I have a 3/4 x 2.5" hex head bolt doing that job. But I thought it would be convenient to have a light-duty ball there -- for quick and dirty light-service towing.
Coarse-threaded trailer ***** are simply not to be found, however. Hence my desire to MAKE one. And if I'm going to do it (or hire it done), I figure I might as well make it one of those "convertible" styles, so as to have both 2" and 1-7/8" at my disposal.
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Professional
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 131
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From: New Milford, CT
I love this place.
Already done a deal with the cowboy, above, to replace THIS with THIS.
He'll turn the 1-inch Convert-a-Ball shank down to 3/4" and thread it for me (3/4-10 NC) in order to replace that ugly bolt that holds the Curt Mfg. receiver to the step bumper.
Not only will it be more attractive (IMHO), but also, it means I'll have both 1-7/8 and 2-inch trailer ***** instantly available for quick-and-dirty, light-duty towing (like taking the trash to the dump on a small 6x10 utility trailer). I'll stuff a proper ball adapter into the receiver for SERIOUS towing. But this will make the everyday, around-the-yard stuff way handier.
Yay DF!
Already done a deal with the cowboy, above, to replace THIS with THIS.
He'll turn the 1-inch Convert-a-Ball shank down to 3/4" and thread it for me (3/4-10 NC) in order to replace that ugly bolt that holds the Curt Mfg. receiver to the step bumper.
Not only will it be more attractive (IMHO), but also, it means I'll have both 1-7/8 and 2-inch trailer ***** instantly available for quick-and-dirty, light-duty towing (like taking the trash to the dump on a small 6x10 utility trailer). I'll stuff a proper ball adapter into the receiver for SERIOUS towing. But this will make the everyday, around-the-yard stuff way handier.
Yay DF!
