Hey guys, thinking of dynamatting my interior, curious if anyone has done it and about how much you think I'd need. Also, I hear that there are a lot of other brands that might be as good and cheaper. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

May I ask why?

 

Well for a couple reasons. 1. it will help my sound system sound better, 2. Even tho I love the sound of my exhaust, on long road trips it gets old after a while, and 3. I have a speaker phone blue tooth, and it doesn't work as well when I'm on the highway or accelerating because of all the backround noise.

 

I'm your guy. Will post pics & info when I can, maybe sometime later today.

 

Thanks bro I appreciate it. I had no issues stripping my interior and door panels when I installed my stereo, so Im hoping it wont be that hard. Just clean and prep surfaces and get the best deal I can on material without getting way too much.

 

It wasn't hard, just a little time-consuming (when you do it right). Price-wise, the best deal I found was through Amazon for the Xtreme Bulk Pack, $124.95 for 9x 18" x 32" sheets (Crutchfield was at $279.99 for the same damn thing!). This quantity worked out perfectly in my regular cab: Both front doors and both rear swing-out doors, covering inner and outer body panels on each. Would still have liked to do the rear cab panel, ceiling, and floorboard, but after doing the doors only, the improvement in sound attenuation was already greatly achieved: The wind noise now at 80mph sounds only at about what 55mph used to sound like, low and mid-range bass is much more clear and noticeable, average listening volume is reduced with less need to creep the volume up at speed, and you probably won't notice cars going by unless you see them. Also easier to have conversations at almost any speed, cell or in-cab. As for engine/exhaust noise, I didn't notice that much of a difference, but that's probably because I didn't do the floorboard/back panel or use their hoodliner.

Installation was fairly easy, but like I said, somewhat time-consuming...this coming from someone with manual windows and locks. If you have power, I can only imagine it'll take more to work around/take out the motors and wiring for the job. You have to really plan out the cuts on your sheets beforehand to make the best use of that you have...Do a whole lot of measuring on the inner door panels and outer, because you (almost) can't go back and make it right if you mess this up. I drew up a few pages worth of diagrams to show exactly how each sheet was going to be cut...Kinda like an upholstery diagram. If I still had them I'd post 'em, but they probably went out with the scraps.

Materials & Tools:

-Dynamatting
-Rubber or wooden hand roller
-Heat gun
-Putty knife
-Rubber/latex gloves
-Liquid wax/tar remover (I used Rustoleum's in a can)
-Clean rags for above (dozen-pack should do)
-Window crank removal tool (if manual)
-Band Aids

Installation:

Pretty straightforward. Lay upcoming Dynamat sheets for installation on the ground/under the sun to warm them up...this will begin to make them pliable for bending, and aid the exterior door panel sheet in squeezing it through the inner shell. Remove door panel and speaker. Remove plastic protective liner from the inner body panel (Dynamatting will replace this, but don't discard it just yet until you're done with the door..in case any issues come up). Glove up, scrape off all remaining gum from plastic liner still on the door shell with putty knife, then clean off remaining residue with wax/tar remover and a rag. Wipe down inside of exterior door panel with wax/tar remover and rag, then do the same with the interior door panel...This will get off all unseen surface dirt/residue for best Dynamat application.

Pull the exterior panel sheet through the inner shell with the backing still on it, and once roughly in place, slowly peel down a corner of the backing and press it into its appropriate place. With the hand roller, continue to pull the backing off while rolling the sheet against the body panel, pressing out all air bubbles as they form. Once the entire sheet is on, grab the heat gun and heat up the sheet (not super hot, don't want to start melting paint on the other side and keep rolling it down, pressing it firmly against the body panel. If there are still air bubbles that won't work out, take the tip of a utility knife and puncture it just enough to be able to roll the foil down.

Now do the same over the interior shell panel, making sure to allow cutouts for the speaker and plastic interior panel clips, bolt heads, and other misc parts including the door handle bar and door lock bar. Roll the dynamat tight against the shell panel openings, but make sure not to puncture it...It's this "sealed" chamber that isolates exterior noise from the cabin. If you do happen to puncture it, you can take a small piece of scrap Dynamat and double it up over the hole. Reinstall the speaker and door panel, repeat 3x other times. Patiently, it took me about 2-3 hours per door, and about half a box of Band Aids.















Good luck!