On Sunday I went on a 5 hour road trip for work and being that it was in the 80's and 90's most of the trip I had the A/C on and I had the blower set at the number 2 settings and the A/C set on the top vents only.

Somewhere around 3 to 3 1/2 hours into the trip the cabin started to get warm, so I turn the blower setting up to 4 and I can hear the blower motor spinning but little to nothing is being blown out of the vents.

Now the air that is coming out is cool air, it's just that the blower is blowing like it is set on the number 1 setting

So I turned the A/C off and cracked the windows for about an hour and then I stopped at Cabelas's just outside of Reno (Sweet Outdoorsman’s Store) for about a 1/2 hour. Get back in the truck turn on the A/C and the blower is working just like it should.

Next Day heading back home and the same thing happens.

To me it sounds like the blower motor is somehow overheating and turning itself down to the lowest setting

My question is how do I take it in to the shop without driving the truck for 3 to 3 1/2 hours for A/C blower to start acting up?

Sorry for the long post and thanks for any and all suggestions.

 

It should show up in a resistance test.

 

my a/c has a mind of it's own if I leave the **** in the "outside air" position, it gets warm and cold all by itself, sometimes to the point of I'm thinking the thing has died on me (the fan always runs at a constant speed, though) ...If I leave it on the "recirculation" position, it stays ice cold and constant. So I just leave it in that position.

 

That actually kinda makes since. If you have it on recirculation the air is drier and cooler in the truck and has to work less to keep you cool.

If you constantly leave it on and sucking in hot humid air the ac radiator might be freezing. The pump would shut its self off until it unfroze. Or overheats from trying to keep cool, that is has to shut itself off.

There is a reason why they say in the "How to use A/C" that you should first roll down windows and turn the AC to use outside air, and when you start to feel the temp drop turn it to recirculation. I am sure the windows down part has nothing to do but let the hot air escape.

 

Was it humid? Your evaporator was freezing over with ice and blocking air flow. Next time flip the heater on and burn off all the ice. My neon used to do that whenever it was humid

 

always crack the windows to get rid of the hot air, never frozen over anything, not low on freon.....I may have mispoken, it does it mostly under heavy acceleration or going uphill. I think these things have a compressor cut-out under heavy acceleration or heavy load, that may be what causes it.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Yeah i won't have another trip to try the heater switch until late July and it should be really warm then
Looks like the resistance test is the next step (thx Jaded)

 

Yep, your evaporator on the firewall was freezing over. That's from using recirculation too long. It happens regularly in any vehicle here in the deeeeeeep south when the temp is 90+ and the humidity is 90+. Switching to outside air will melt it but not as fast as heater. It will also happen if the freon is low.
Hey, keithhud, when's the garlic festival?

 

[Hey, keithhud, when's the garlic festival?[/quote]

Coming up the 29th, 30th and 31st of July. I'll just be getting back from Reno in time to work the festival. It's a good time if it's not to hot (100+).

Ever try the Garlic Ice Cream?

 

I was stationed at Ft. Ord in 1986 but I didn't make the garlic festival. I do eat plenty every opportunity, especially gyros, and I've never had a problem with vampires.