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Drill Into Oil Pan

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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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Default Drill Into Oil Pan

Hey guys,

What is the best way to tap an oil return line into the oil pan without removing it?

I know, it would be ideal to remove it, and clean all metal shaving right after drilling, but to remove the oil pan, the manual calls for an engine lift etc... sound like a PITA.

I have read about drilling into the pan SLOWLY while embalming your drill bit with oil to catch all metal shavings as the hole is being drilled.

Has anybody done this before, any tips?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 06:34 PM
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sounds risky
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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PM billy and see what he did.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by thunder98110
PM billy and see what he did.
Thanks! Billy is Blown right? 'm sorry I'm still kinda new here.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 07:03 PM
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http://airram.com/product.php?catego...productid=1481
This might work better but idk how much psi it in the oil filter. Just an idea.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 08:19 PM
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With all the time and money you're putting into this project, I wouldn't do that. One small chip could cause big problems. Remember the wisdom: there's never enough time or money to do it right, but there's always enough to do it all over again.

You may need a lift to remove the pan, but do you have to fully remove it to accomplish your goal?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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You could buy a new oil pan drill and tap it the right way then just swap it out.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MitsuRaider
Thanks! Billy is Blown right? 'm sorry I'm still kinda new here.
yes sir. Are you friends with him on fb?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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I've drilled and tapped several pans with no issues. (cast pans) Slow, careful and prepared was the norm. I had a method that was simple but not sure how easy it is going to be describing it. I tried this on a junk pan a few times that wasn't in a car to make sure it actually worked.

Drain the oil, leave the drain plug out.

I setup a shop-vac to suck the chips while drilling but didn't just stick it up there. I took the end of the shop vac hose and sealed it off. I then drilled sideways through the end of the hose and opened up the side facing the surface I was drilling an extra 1/2 inch. With the vac on this created good negative pressure right at the drill spot.

Basically drilled into the pan while the bit was through the vac hose and the vac was on. Making sure that once the drill bit was started and aligned the hose end was pressed up against the area being drilled.

Plenty of grease on the tap to catch shavings. Use the vac method during tapping also to make sure nothing falls into the pan.

As a precaustion when done I used a small circulating pump with solvent to flush out the pan throught the hole I just tapped. Catch it all in an oil drain pan. I've never noticed any rogue shavings in the pan after flushing it so the vac trick always seemed to work.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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There is only one way to insure that you don't have shavings in the pan...take it off. I'm sure a bajillion people have drilled and tapped pans while still mounted. The real question is, do you go the easier route, or safer route? I may take longer than most to assemble an engine, or go about my way of insuring that things are done properly. But, this mind set leads me to less failures or mistakes. Most of the time, being slow and methodical leads to better results.
 
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