I have always heard of it, but not exactly sure what it will accomplish. Thanks!

 

starts cycling the coolant earlier, to keep engine cooler. best thing to do is to get an efan paired with the 180 to get full effects.

 

I have heard, but have never investigated.. Every 10 degrees you drop your engine temp is a 1hp gain. Now your engine has to be to a certain temp to switch from open to closed so you are not running rich non stop.

Also remember that a 180 stat opens when the coolant reaches 180 at the t-stat which is located at as the coolant leaves the engine. The location that the engine reads the coolant temp is where it enters into the engine. So coolant temp will likely be around 190-195 with a 180 stat.

 

I installed the t stat and I noticed the difference right away. My temperature needle would usually stay dead on the halfway mark. It now stays almost a quarter under.

I bought the thermostat that doesn't have the notch and if worked fine without modifications. I didn't drill the notch and if works fine.

 

A cooler thermostat (besides allowing the coolant to flow a bit sooner, as stated) will cause the PCM to dump slightly more fuel into the mix, resulting in a small power gain at the expense of a slight loss in fuel economy.

For some, like me who run multiple mods that work to lean out the mix (headers, advanced timing, CAI, etc.) the resulting extra fuel dump when running a cooler thermostat will bring the A/F ratio back closer to stock spec.

There was always a saying that a cooler engine was a happier engine, but that's not really the case today with all the computer controlled sh*t going on. You need to be careful when running a cooler thermostat. Too cool and you have a hard time heating the cab in winter in northern climates. Also, if you are the type who takes frequent short trips, oil sludging may become an issue as the temp is not getting high enough to effectively burn normal condensation out of the oil...

 

I agree with Hammer...the under 2006 pcv design makes condensation an issue to begin with (pcv on oil filler neck).
For $50.00 I converted to the 2006-2007 pcv that screws into the driver side head.
This will make a HUGE difference in the 4.7l snot (which I proved to be the case with my catch can setup).

I can post part numbers if anyone is interested...

 

Post away, I'm interested.

 

x2 i wanna hear how to do this

 

Ok..will do as soon as I get home!

 

Here is the link to the TSB:

http://www.wkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk_2500208.pdf


I went with:


1 53032925AC PCV Valve Adaptor
HB/ND/WK/WH Bodies
1 53032617AF PCV Hose
HB/ND/WK/WH Bodies
1 53020891AE Oil Fill Housing
HB/ND/WK/WH Bodies
1 (AR) 53032090AF CCV Hose
(ND)


Easy to do!