Differential gear change (with pics)
Good for you, it is nerve racking for me to tear into the Dak. I don't know much about gear changes, but I am definately looking forward to this write up.
I do have a few questions for you though:
I though I saw wheel spacers in one of the photos, is this to clear the tires or cosmetic?
What size tires are you running? They look like the Hankook Dynapro M/T's.
I do have a few questions for you though:
I though I saw wheel spacers in one of the photos, is this to clear the tires or cosmetic?
What size tires are you running? They look like the Hankook Dynapro M/T's.
Nice man, I subscribed... I want to see the end results of this project. I would love to put in an LSD in the rear, but... I have to many other things going on to jump into that on my DD.
Have you had any issues with the spacers? I have always heard that wheel spacers are fine, yet so many people advise against them. School me on the spacing-manship.
I think just about everybody makes gears for our diffs. Yukon, Standard, Sierra gear, Motive, etc. I went with a company called Quality gear, but that is what my parts store carries and the price they gave me was very competetive to ordering it out of the States. You just need to state what your front diff is, which is the Dodge 8.0 IFS front differential and whether you have the 8 1/4 or the 9 1/4 rear end. With that info they should be able to get you whatever gears you want. Your options are 3.92, 4.10 or 4.56. 4.10 would probably be the best allround gear ratio, but I personally went 4.56 because of my plans for my truck. You can call Randy's Ring and Pinion for Standard or Yukon, Westcoastdifferentials for Sierra gears (they were the best price of all the inquiries that I made as well as a quality product) or several people for Motive's. Ask for the ring and pinion and a bearing rebuild kit.
Pics of my spacers on.
IMG_0454.jpg
IMG_0441.jpg
There are two kinds of spacers. The kind that I have that are adapter wheel spacers, or the kind that just bolt in behind your wheel (they come in 1/4" or 3/8" increments or something like that) Never get that kind. Your wheel lugnuts loosen off, people sheer their lugs off etc. The kind like I have actually bolt onto your current lugs, then provide new lugs that your wheel bolts onto. There is nothing at all to worry about with these. You just have to retorque them after X number of miles just like retorqueing your wheels. I went with 1.25" spacers, but could have gotten away with 1" and with 1" then your stock wheel is like a 0 offset as 25.4mm = 1".
O.k. I didn't have a whole lot of time today to work on the differential as I put the soffits up on my shop today, but what I do have I will show you.
This is the complete dissassembly of the differential itself.
Step 1; take off the pinion nut. I used a 1 1/4" socket.
IMG_7263.jpg
Step 2; use a puller and pull off the flange
IMG_7265.jpg
Step 3; I seem to have missed a picture somehow, but the axle pin in the center of the spyder gear assembly is held in with a roll pin, or shear pin. It only comes out one way, so use a small punch (I used a finishing nail and punch as my punch was not long enough) and punch it out. Now your pin will begin to move.
IMG_7267.jpg
Step 4; remove the axle pin. When you do this two of the inner gears (top and bottom) will want to come out. Mark what gear went where and remove them.
IMG_7268.jpg
Step 5; now push your axles inward a bit and remove the axle clips that are in there and pull out your axles. Now note what gear and what spacer come out of what location. These spacers determine the amount of backlash that you will end up with.
IMG_7269.jpg
Step 6; Take the bolts off of the bearing caps. Then remove the bearing caps, I used a 15mm socket.
IMG_7270.jpg
Step 7; Now pull out your ring gear assembly by wiggling back and forth. Keep track of parts.
IMG_7272.jpg
IMG_7274.jpg
Step 8; Remove the Pinion from the housing. Press or tap out the pinion from the nut end into the housing. Before and after.
IMG_7273.jpg
IMG_7276.jpg
Step 9; press off your old pinion bearing for fitment on the new pinion (optional) or wreck it to get it off - you need the shim(s) for the new pinion.
old crush seal
IMG_7277.jpg
Old pinion, shims under the bearing
IMG_7279.jpg
Step 10; take off the old ring gear - Not what you want to happen, maybe that is why it is recommended to not use the old bolts on the new ring gear
EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT - JUST IN CASE ANYONE ELSE DOES THIS, THE RING GEAR BOLTS ARE REVERSE THREAD. SO DON'T LOOSEN THEM NORMALLY OR YOU WILL BE TIGHTENING THEM AND SNAP!!
IMG_7283.jpg
Step 11; Press off the old bearings from the ring gear housing. Not an easy task on mine. One came off o.k., the other one I had to heat the crap out of the bearing.
IMG_7286.jpg
Step 12; Remove the old pinion seal, inner bearing now will come out.
IMG_7287.jpg
Step 13; Remove the old bearing races from the housing. You need a Long thick punch to do this easily if you don't have the proper puller. I punched mine out.
Inner
IMG_7290.jpg
Outer
IMG_7293.jpg
Now that is all for now. The only thing I didn't do yet is to remove the outer axle seals as I also have new ones to put in. I will be working on it a bit at nights next week.
This is the complete dissassembly of the differential itself.
Step 1; take off the pinion nut. I used a 1 1/4" socket.
IMG_7263.jpg
Step 2; use a puller and pull off the flange
IMG_7265.jpg
Step 3; I seem to have missed a picture somehow, but the axle pin in the center of the spyder gear assembly is held in with a roll pin, or shear pin. It only comes out one way, so use a small punch (I used a finishing nail and punch as my punch was not long enough) and punch it out. Now your pin will begin to move.
IMG_7267.jpg
Step 4; remove the axle pin. When you do this two of the inner gears (top and bottom) will want to come out. Mark what gear went where and remove them.
IMG_7268.jpg
Step 5; now push your axles inward a bit and remove the axle clips that are in there and pull out your axles. Now note what gear and what spacer come out of what location. These spacers determine the amount of backlash that you will end up with.
IMG_7269.jpg
Step 6; Take the bolts off of the bearing caps. Then remove the bearing caps, I used a 15mm socket.
IMG_7270.jpg
Step 7; Now pull out your ring gear assembly by wiggling back and forth. Keep track of parts.
IMG_7272.jpg
IMG_7274.jpg
Step 8; Remove the Pinion from the housing. Press or tap out the pinion from the nut end into the housing. Before and after.
IMG_7273.jpg
IMG_7276.jpg
Step 9; press off your old pinion bearing for fitment on the new pinion (optional) or wreck it to get it off - you need the shim(s) for the new pinion.
old crush seal
IMG_7277.jpg
Old pinion, shims under the bearing
IMG_7279.jpg
Step 10; take off the old ring gear - Not what you want to happen, maybe that is why it is recommended to not use the old bolts on the new ring gear
EDIT EDIT EDIT EDIT - JUST IN CASE ANYONE ELSE DOES THIS, THE RING GEAR BOLTS ARE REVERSE THREAD. SO DON'T LOOSEN THEM NORMALLY OR YOU WILL BE TIGHTENING THEM AND SNAP!!
IMG_7283.jpg
Step 11; Press off the old bearings from the ring gear housing. Not an easy task on mine. One came off o.k., the other one I had to heat the crap out of the bearing.
IMG_7286.jpg
Step 12; Remove the old pinion seal, inner bearing now will come out.
IMG_7287.jpg
Step 13; Remove the old bearing races from the housing. You need a Long thick punch to do this easily if you don't have the proper puller. I punched mine out.
Inner
IMG_7290.jpg
Outer
IMG_7293.jpg
Now that is all for now. The only thing I didn't do yet is to remove the outer axle seals as I also have new ones to put in. I will be working on it a bit at nights next week.
Last edited by sleds; Oct 10, 2011 at 01:26 AM. Reason: adding some info


