Differential gear change (with pics)
Ditto....if I cant get it done in a weekend, it aint happening....she's my daily driver....
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Veteran
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 403
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From: British Columbia
Been a bit busy the last couple of weeks. I have been working on getting the shop to this point.
IMG_7327.jpg
IMG_7327.jpg
Thread Starter
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Veteran
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 403
Likes: 0
From: British Columbia
front reassembly
O.k. So here goes the reassembly of the front diff. These steps are in no particular must do order, just the way I put mine together.
#1 Press on the new bearings onto the diff housing. I used my press, and used the old bearing inner race to help set it as the bearing sits below the edge of the housing. Here it is in my vice. THIS IS WHERE I ALSO PUT THE RING GEAR ON. RING GEAR BOLTS ARE REVERSE THREAD AND ARE TORQUED TO 80 ft/lbs. Use blue loctite.
IMG_7294.jpg
#2, punch out the old bearing outer races for the pinion gear from the housing.
IMG_7295.jpg
IMG_7298.jpg
#3, put in the new bearing outer races. I used a tool for this for the outer and inner bearing.
IMG_7299.jpg
IMG_7300.jpg
IMG_7305.jpg
IMG_7301.jpg
#4, prep the new pinion bearing for checking the gear mesh pattern. To do this, I used my die grinder with a grinding wheel, ground out the inside of the old bearings so they could slide on and off the new pinion without resorting to the puller and assembled the pinion gear with the stock shim spacer. This is optional, but if you need to pull your new gears off to add shims, or take shims away, it is more time consumming and may wreck your new bearings.
IMG_7308.jpg
IMG_7307.jpg
IMG_7309.jpg
#5, install the new pinion gear with the original shim, old bearings and old crush spacer into the housing with the pinion companion flange and torque it snuggly
IMG_7312.jpg
IMG_7313.jpg
#6, next put in the ring gear assembly and bolt it in place.
IMG_7314.jpg
#7, put the marking compound on the ring gear teeth and rotate the assembly several times one way and then the other way. This will give you your mesh on your drive and coast side of the ring gear and you want it to match what the manual tells you is right. THIS IS THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN THE WHOLE PROCEDURE. THIS WILL MAKE YOUR DIFF TO RUN PROPERLY, OR CAUSE IT TO OVERHEAT AND FAIL PREMATURELY OR HOWL ALL THE TIME.
IMG_7319.jpg
This is what I ended up with, with the original stock shims.
IMG_7316.jpg
IMG_7317.jpg
IMG_7320.jpg
This is a good mesh pattern, so if the backlash measures within spec, all is good.
To measure your backlash, you push (rotate) your ring gear completely one way, and with a dial indicator at 0, rotate the ring gear as far the other way as it will go without moving the pinion gear. This gives you your amount of "play" you have between the ring gear and pinion gear. I don't have any photos of this, but recommended is between 0.005(5 thou) and 0.008(8 thou).
If this is all o.k., take the ring gear assembly out and dissassemble the pinion gear.
#8, next put your shim on the ring gear, place the new inner bearing on the shaft and press it on.
you can see the new crush spacer in this pic
IMG_7323.jpg
IMG_7325.jpg
#9, put your new outer bearing in the race and install the new pinion seal.
IMG_7322.jpg
IMG_7321.jpg
#10, slide the pinion gear up from the inside first putting the new crush spacer in place on the shaft and put the pinion companion flange and nut on. Start to install the nut until the flange hits the new crush spacer.
IMG_7326.jpg
#11, now this next part is probably the second most important step of the whole ordeal. This takes considerable force to start compressing the crush spacer, so this is the holder that I made and my cousin is a heavy duty mechanic so I borrowed his 3/4" torque wrench. Set the torque to 200 or 250 ft/lbs and torque it until there is no free play left in the pinion gear (front to back play). You will have approx 1/4" free play to begin with. Once again I used a 1 1/4" socket for my pinion nut.
IMG_7328.jpg
IMG_7329.jpg
IMG_7330.jpg
Now once you have the free play taken out, start torqueing the nut down in 5 ft/lb increments until you have between 15 and 22 inch pounds of rotating torque needed to rotate the pinion with no load on it. I once again don't have a picture of this, but put a 1-1/4 socket on an inch pound torque wrench and stood the housing up on it's face to see how much rotating torque was needed to turn it. If not enough, torque it another 5 ft/lbs and check rotating torque again. Do not over torque it, or they recommend using another crush spacer and starting over again. so go slow and all will work out.
#12, now put the diff housing in place with your new bearings on and the shims in the right place and install your bearing caps on. Torque these to 45 ft/lbs.
IMG_7333.jpg
#13, now put in your new shaft seals.
IMG_7334.jpg
IMG_7335.jpg
#14, install your shafts, i did the long one first and put on your retaining clips.
First pic is of the short shaft just to remind you how it goes.
IMG_7337.jpg
clip
IMG_7338.jpg
#15, once both shafts are in, install the two other gears. I installed the bottom one first, set it in place, turn the shaft until it slides in, let it go past the place where it needs to sit until it just about falls out the back, place the top one in the teeth (these need to be lined up 180* from one another and slowly turn the shaft back the other way. The two (top and bottom gears) will then move towards where they need to sit.
no top and bottom gears
IMG_7340.jpg
top and bottom gears in place.
IMG_7345.jpg
remember the top and bottom gears have spacers behind them
IMG_7343.jpg
#16, put the shaft in place to slide it into the gears.
IMG_7345.jpg
You want to line up the holes in the housing and the pin
IMG_7347.jpg
#17, get the pin ready to put into place and push into place with a punch and set it in until it bottoms out.
IMG_7348.jpg
IMG_7349.jpg
#18, I filled the housing up with diff fluid before putting the cover on. Alot easier to do that now. 56 fluid oz, or 1.66 liters of 75w90 synthetic gear oil.
#19, install the new sealant and install the diff cover. Torque bolts to 30 ft/lb of torque.
IMG_7350.jpg
IMG_7351.jpg
It is now ready to put back into the truck
IMG_7352.jpg
#1 Press on the new bearings onto the diff housing. I used my press, and used the old bearing inner race to help set it as the bearing sits below the edge of the housing. Here it is in my vice. THIS IS WHERE I ALSO PUT THE RING GEAR ON. RING GEAR BOLTS ARE REVERSE THREAD AND ARE TORQUED TO 80 ft/lbs. Use blue loctite.
IMG_7294.jpg
#2, punch out the old bearing outer races for the pinion gear from the housing.
IMG_7295.jpg
IMG_7298.jpg
#3, put in the new bearing outer races. I used a tool for this for the outer and inner bearing.
IMG_7299.jpg
IMG_7300.jpg
IMG_7305.jpg
IMG_7301.jpg
#4, prep the new pinion bearing for checking the gear mesh pattern. To do this, I used my die grinder with a grinding wheel, ground out the inside of the old bearings so they could slide on and off the new pinion without resorting to the puller and assembled the pinion gear with the stock shim spacer. This is optional, but if you need to pull your new gears off to add shims, or take shims away, it is more time consumming and may wreck your new bearings.
IMG_7308.jpg
IMG_7307.jpg
IMG_7309.jpg
#5, install the new pinion gear with the original shim, old bearings and old crush spacer into the housing with the pinion companion flange and torque it snuggly
IMG_7312.jpg
IMG_7313.jpg
#6, next put in the ring gear assembly and bolt it in place.
IMG_7314.jpg
#7, put the marking compound on the ring gear teeth and rotate the assembly several times one way and then the other way. This will give you your mesh on your drive and coast side of the ring gear and you want it to match what the manual tells you is right. THIS IS THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN THE WHOLE PROCEDURE. THIS WILL MAKE YOUR DIFF TO RUN PROPERLY, OR CAUSE IT TO OVERHEAT AND FAIL PREMATURELY OR HOWL ALL THE TIME.
IMG_7319.jpg
This is what I ended up with, with the original stock shims.
IMG_7316.jpg
IMG_7317.jpg
IMG_7320.jpg
This is a good mesh pattern, so if the backlash measures within spec, all is good.
To measure your backlash, you push (rotate) your ring gear completely one way, and with a dial indicator at 0, rotate the ring gear as far the other way as it will go without moving the pinion gear. This gives you your amount of "play" you have between the ring gear and pinion gear. I don't have any photos of this, but recommended is between 0.005(5 thou) and 0.008(8 thou).
If this is all o.k., take the ring gear assembly out and dissassemble the pinion gear.
#8, next put your shim on the ring gear, place the new inner bearing on the shaft and press it on.
you can see the new crush spacer in this pic
IMG_7323.jpg
IMG_7325.jpg
#9, put your new outer bearing in the race and install the new pinion seal.
IMG_7322.jpg
IMG_7321.jpg
#10, slide the pinion gear up from the inside first putting the new crush spacer in place on the shaft and put the pinion companion flange and nut on. Start to install the nut until the flange hits the new crush spacer.
IMG_7326.jpg
#11, now this next part is probably the second most important step of the whole ordeal. This takes considerable force to start compressing the crush spacer, so this is the holder that I made and my cousin is a heavy duty mechanic so I borrowed his 3/4" torque wrench. Set the torque to 200 or 250 ft/lbs and torque it until there is no free play left in the pinion gear (front to back play). You will have approx 1/4" free play to begin with. Once again I used a 1 1/4" socket for my pinion nut.
IMG_7328.jpg
IMG_7329.jpg
IMG_7330.jpg
Now once you have the free play taken out, start torqueing the nut down in 5 ft/lb increments until you have between 15 and 22 inch pounds of rotating torque needed to rotate the pinion with no load on it. I once again don't have a picture of this, but put a 1-1/4 socket on an inch pound torque wrench and stood the housing up on it's face to see how much rotating torque was needed to turn it. If not enough, torque it another 5 ft/lbs and check rotating torque again. Do not over torque it, or they recommend using another crush spacer and starting over again. so go slow and all will work out.
#12, now put the diff housing in place with your new bearings on and the shims in the right place and install your bearing caps on. Torque these to 45 ft/lbs.
IMG_7333.jpg
#13, now put in your new shaft seals.
IMG_7334.jpg
IMG_7335.jpg
#14, install your shafts, i did the long one first and put on your retaining clips.
First pic is of the short shaft just to remind you how it goes.
IMG_7337.jpg
clip
IMG_7338.jpg
#15, once both shafts are in, install the two other gears. I installed the bottom one first, set it in place, turn the shaft until it slides in, let it go past the place where it needs to sit until it just about falls out the back, place the top one in the teeth (these need to be lined up 180* from one another and slowly turn the shaft back the other way. The two (top and bottom gears) will then move towards where they need to sit.
no top and bottom gears
IMG_7340.jpg
top and bottom gears in place.
IMG_7345.jpg
remember the top and bottom gears have spacers behind them
IMG_7343.jpg
#16, put the shaft in place to slide it into the gears.
IMG_7345.jpg
You want to line up the holes in the housing and the pin
IMG_7347.jpg
#17, get the pin ready to put into place and push into place with a punch and set it in until it bottoms out.
IMG_7348.jpg
IMG_7349.jpg
#18, I filled the housing up with diff fluid before putting the cover on. Alot easier to do that now. 56 fluid oz, or 1.66 liters of 75w90 synthetic gear oil.
#19, install the new sealant and install the diff cover. Torque bolts to 30 ft/lb of torque.
IMG_7350.jpg
IMG_7351.jpg
It is now ready to put back into the truck
IMG_7352.jpg
Last edited by sleds; Oct 10, 2011 at 01:19 AM. Reason: spelling
