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Wiring a new Stereo.. oh god, need a hand

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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 11:40 PM
  #31  
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Connect it to the cig outlet. Very simple. I even added a spade terminal on it so I don't have to de-solder anything. I already knew this but a audio shop guy told me I had to tap into it anyways.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 11:51 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jkeaton
that is switchable via fuse position in the fuse box. One position it is always on, other position it is switched.
That's interesting, good to know.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 11:53 PM
  #33  
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In doing so your stereo always has power correct? and did you just cut red and ground from the outlet making it useless, or is it ok to just tap into the red and run that up to behind the radio, insulate and there you can keep power to the outlet also right?
As for the ignition.. is there any downfall to tapping into that wire? This guy swears up n down he can solder it and have it done in 20 minutes, wont be a problem.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 07:27 AM
  #34  
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"Tapping" or "splicing" into the cig power wires means you will still have power to the outlet. Your basically cutting the wire in two, stripping the ends of insulation and putting it back together with the extra wire for the radio. I use butt crimps, never had a problem with them in the 20 some odd vehicles I have modified the stereos in. Others swear by soldering all connections. You do what is comfortable for you. If paying someone $20 to have it over and done with is what you are comfortable with then by all means do that. There are just some good suggestions being thrown out on how you can avoid paying the $20 for something you can do yourself.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:05 PM
  #35  
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I think he's canceling on me because of work, so if thats the case ill pretend its fate and go right off the cig lighter. I do agree that a stereos memory isn't going to kill my trucks battery. I mean I bought the Gold premium stuff Son! Im sure that means it cannot die ever. My crutchfield speaker adapters came, as well as the dynamat for the doors. So im gonna make sure this radio works today, and tomorrow that transmission flush is in order. Ill post pics of the doors whenever I can do that project.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #36  
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i want to do that dynomat in mine. you get it from crutchfield, too?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by SmackGoneWild
In doing so your stereo always has power correct?
Going through the cigarette lighter is what gives you the ability to switch the radio on and off with the key just like any other accessory, HOWEVER:

Originally Posted by SmackGoneWild
both my front and in the center console outlets are powered without the key in ignition
This is apparently where it will get tricky for you, because:

Originally Posted by jkeaton
that is switchable via fuse position in the fuse box. One position it is always on, other position it is switched.
Apparently your fuse position in the fuse box is set so that your cigarette lighter is always hot. So therefore, unless you change your fuse position to the one that allows the cigarette lighter to be switched on and off, connecting your radio to it will keep the radio on all the time because the cigarette lighter is on all the time. (But again, as noted before, you will already have an "always on" connection via the yellow wire coming right through the factory harness. The main purpose of connecting the red wire to the cigarette lighter hot is so the radio shuts off when the key is shut off...which will only happen after you deal with the above fuse position concern.)

Originally Posted by SmackGoneWild
And did you just cut red and ground from the outlet making it useless, or is it ok to just tap into the red and run that up to behind the radio, insulate and there you can keep power to the outlet also right?
You do *not* need to do anything with the cigarette lighter ground. Just the hot wire (dark blue with pink stripe). Splice into it using one of the various methods posted before, still keeping the cigarette lighter connected in the circuit as it was. So yes, you can still keep power to the outlet.

Originally Posted by SmackGoneWild
As for the ignition.. is there any downfall to tapping into that wire? This guy swears up n down he can solder it and have it done in 20 minutes, wont be a problem.
That's between you and him. But if you can get your fuse position to the one that allows the cigarette lighter to be switched on and off with the key, you won't need to tap into your ignition. Personally, since you're already going to have the cigarette lighter out when the dash trim comes out, you really wouldn't need anyone tearing into the column and messing with ignition wires...The connection you need to make will be right there.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #38  
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erau, I think you nailed it man, that was the route ive been thinking is best. Ill just have to check fast here to see how changing that fuse would be.

jkeaton- I was going to buy it with them but I got more for a better price on amazon.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #39  
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Stereo in.. with the dash kit looks great, and I love having that small pocket thats perfect for the mp3 player, thinkin ill run an Aux cable back and under the console into my handrest for a clean look.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 09:46 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SmackGoneWild
Stereo in.. with the dash kit looks great, and I love having that small pocket thats perfect for the mp3 player, thinkin ill run an Aux cable back and under the console into my handrest for a clean look.

come on man, where's the pics???? lol
 
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