It certainly looks like oil, if it was my truck, I'd start planning on changing the seal. How fast are you loosing the oil?

When you get around to installing the new seal, use cleaners that won't react with oil seals - brake cleaners are pretty harsh and can damage the rubber on an oil seal.

 

Pulling the timing cover isn't that bad, you are not removing the timing chains. Here are some Mopar part numbers and you will need a tube of the silicone thats used on the rear diff or ask about the 3 bond sealer that Mopar uses. crankshaft seal 53021313AA, Gasket cover 53021226AA and O-ring seal You will need (2) 53021239AA.

 

According to the shop manual, these engines have that seal removed and installed externally - the timing cover doesn't come off, that's why they have that special tool. Pulling the timing cover on older engines was more wrenching, but, in my opinion a simpler job to changing the oil seal.

 

But if you look at the picture, Looks more like the timing cover. Which i have also seen on the 2.7 engines. Before doing any repairs, add engine dye to the engine and recheck with a black light.

 

ok ill check it with dye. its hard to tell where its comin from but it seems like its starting north of the oil pan. ya the service manual dont say any thing about the timing cover being removed. it is a slow leak so it barley registers on the dip stick. thanks for the part numbers that was useful.

 

You might want to check with a dealership (the parts counter staff should be able to tell you). I'm fairly sure that the 4.7 had it's front crank seal changed sometime in the early 2000, so this may have been done to allow you to change the seal without removing the timing cover, but if you choose to take everything apart, you can probably do the change without the special tool, in other words, you could probably dig/pry out the old seal and tap in a new one. The tool would put the seal in square and smooth and if the timing cover is made of cast aluminum, the tapping/hammering may be enough to crack or break it - I'm only guessing on this, but it is something to keep in mind. With thin cast material, you really need to make sure you have support around the seal area where you'd be tapping to make sure you don't break it.

 

Mine's got the same problem. Thanks for the numbers!

 

if you do yours before i do mine let me know how it goes. mine is such a slow leak ive decided to put it on the back burner and knock out the broken manifold bolt at the same time. that will be a fun day

 

I realize this thread is a year old now, but did either of you do the replacement, and as for the shop manual on this forum, where can I find that. Mine just started leaking and takes about 3 months to go down 1/2 qt of oil. Would like to look at the manual and decide from there which way to go. Any help is appreciated.

 

The manual is here: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen...s-manuals.html

In the sticky that says "service and parts manuals" at the top of the page.