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Got Grease-able Suspension parts now, soooo

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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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Default Got Grease-able Suspension parts now, soooo

In the past 6 months I've pretty much upgraded all of my front suspension (ball joints, upper/lower arms, etc) with Moog Grease-able parts.

Soooooo, how now that I'm able to, how often should I grease em'?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 11:58 AM
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Check them every six months or 6000 miles. If they look empty, pump the back up.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 01:39 PM
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Yeah, check em when you service the truck.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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So are they bladder style or the kind that you push the old grease out?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 09:33 AM
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If you are not sure how to properly fill these parts with grease, I would check out some videos on how to. So many people think you just fill with grease until it starts pouring out or the boot pops out of housing. You need to learn how to fill the bladder by feel.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 02:58 AM
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Well, the tie rod ends I just ordered have a rubber disc on the back of them, so I am going to assume that they are "Bladder" filled. I'm pretty sure all the other Moog suspension parts I've used have "Grease-able Fittings" which makes me think that they are the other kind.

If you get a grease gun and have never really used one before, to make life easier, I would get a paper towel or something and experiment doing a few pumps on it to see about how much grease comes out with each full pump and then take a close look at the part you're doing and try to visulaize about how much actual space you think is on the inside and how about how many pumps it's take to fill it.


Jkeation: Yeah, I know that there is a lot of product garbage out there, and I try to avoid it. bigggest thing now at my trucks age I really wanna treat her right and if there are some good or at least decent products out there I can use to help maintain or at least somewhat restore internal parts and systems that are either way out of my league to dismantle/replace or are just really expensive; I'd be at least somewhat inclined to give it a shot.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 09:57 AM
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The bladder type, you can either feel or see the end results. You should be able to see the walls of the bladder bloat up. You just want them to puff a little to ensure you have enough in the joint area. You don't want to put so much in they are practically busting at the seams or like eimer said, popping the bladder out. The other style, you clean off the old and pump till you see new grease. I wouldn't worry to much about testing out your grease gun. It's not going to be the same when you are latched on to a zerk fitting.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by italiandominator
Jkeaton: Yeah, I know that there is a lot of product garbage out there, and I try to avoid it. bigggest thing now at my trucks age I really wanna treat her right and if there are some good or at least decent products out there I can use to help maintain or at least somewhat restore internal parts and systems that are either way out of my league to dismantle/replace or are just really expensive; I'd be at least somewhat inclined to give it a shot.
Just do your regular maintenance per the owners manual. Your truck will last forever. You can add those things if you want, but they really dont do anything for you except for, like I said, lucas fuel injector cleaner or seafoam. Those actually seem to help. (I have personally not tried seafoam yet).
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 02:29 PM
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Just got my tie rod ends dropped off. I stand corrected they have the zerk fitting. Could have sworn the ones in the pic had the bladder, but hey as long as it's the right part, does it really matter? I mean is there any real difference between the the two?

3BFA4393-F88F-4864-9C7A-2FC779600116-11862-00000824E5DE8869.jpg



I guess these are the "problem solvers" I have no idea if all Moog Products say that, I just know that they are what I shoud use lol

FDA3EC31-C53C-4420-A8C1-37B9F263A740-11862-00000824EB74E359.jpg
 
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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Oh and one other thing (for the moment lol). I did get these off Amazon and they were listed as new, and I understand that hey it's a car part, it's not always gonna be spotless or what ever, but here is my thing.

When I got my control arms I could barely if at all move the stem coming out of the ball joint and these have a bit more play in them ( still completely solid, just easier to move) Common sense is telling me that the reason is because the control arms are supporting the weight of the vehicle, where these are simply to turn the wheels left and right. Is my gut rookie instinct correct in this assumption?
 
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