Yep...I'm a DumbA**...too many ft lbs
You should buy the absolutely correct sized 6 point impact socket (even if you don't get an air impact for a while) and put your lug nuts on with anti-sieze compound. Properly fitting sockets don't round the heads on the lugnuts as easily. A torque wrench to go with the new socket might be a good idea as well. Torque your wheels on in steps and recheck after a day or so.
Thanks for the info on impacts!
Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
From: Wichita, KS
You should buy the absolutely correct sized 6 point impact socket (even if you don't get an air impact for a while) and put your lug nuts on with anti-sieze compound. Properly fitting sockets don't round the heads on the lugnuts as easily. A torque wrench to go with the new socket might be a good idea as well. Torque your wheels on in steps and recheck after a day or so.
When it comes time to get an air impact, you can go with Snap-on or Ingersol Rand; if you can afford the high priced brand they're good investments. I got tired of the cheap underpowered entry level air impacts and tried Harbor Freight's 'Earthquake' 1/2 in drive air impact. It works well and will work the lugnuts off my motorhome (torqued on to about 190 ft lb) after a couple of years of driving. The torque for the impact is listed as about 600 ft lb, it's overstated, but still pretty good I think.
When it comes time to get an air impact, you can go with Snap-on or Ingersol Rand; if you can afford the high priced brand they're good investments. I got tired of the cheap underpowered entry level air impacts and tried Harbor Freight's 'Earthquake' 1/2 in drive air impact. It works well and will work the lugnuts off my motorhome (torqued on to about 190 ft lb) after a couple of years of driving. The torque for the impact is listed as about 600 ft lb, it's overstated, but still pretty good I think.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 2
From: Ontario, Canada
I use an impact wrench to remove the nuts, but when I put the wheels on, I snug the nuts on with an air ratchet (only 50 ft.lb.) and then I pull them tight using a torque wrench so that each nut gives the same pressure. Depending on the rims, I use anywhere between 110 and 135 ft. lb. on the Dakota.
Anti seize is a great recommendation - besides the nut threads, I also use it on the mating surface between the rim and hub to keep the steel rims from attaching themselves & to reduce any corrosion on aluminum rims. There are a couple of varieties of this, the silver compound is good for general purpose applications, and the copper, for higher heat - I use this on the wheels where the brakes can heat things up a fair bit.
All Star
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 783
Likes: 0
From: Eastside Tucson AZ
Yeah, 150 ft. lb. won't account for damaged lug nuts or broken studs. The reason I torque my alloy wheels on is that horsing them on (over torquing or uneven torque) can crack them. On steel wheels, it can account for warping the wheel.
I used to live in the rust zone, and broken studs were fairly common. I was a kid back then, but I suspect that nothing could have saved them. And if they're rusted, that may account for rounded lugnuts. (Anti seize would have helped, I think.)
Most of us in the non rust areas (ie desert SW) are so clueless about what the rust belters go thru. And guys like me, who grew up with rust, are just plain spoiled.
I used to live in the rust zone, and broken studs were fairly common. I was a kid back then, but I suspect that nothing could have saved them. And if they're rusted, that may account for rounded lugnuts. (Anti seize would have helped, I think.)
Most of us in the non rust areas (ie desert SW) are so clueless about what the rust belters go thru. And guys like me, who grew up with rust, are just plain spoiled.