Yep...I'm a DumbA**...too many ft lbs
So my weeks has been super crappy...
I went to do a routine brake job...
bought nice shiny new rotors and ceramic brake pads...
did my passenger side with no problem...
went to take my driver side wheel off and realized my error...
I believe I torqued my wheels way too tight!
I have stripped studs and rounded nuts on too of the lugs...
I did research, ive tried gator grips, Everything short of sawing or drilling the dang thing off...
Used a few cuss words that don't come out of my mouth very often and that didn't help either...
so today I'm taking it to my buddy's shop to see if they can do anything with it...
the depression is starting to sink in...I haven't drove my truck in days...and I'm toolin around in a GD Rav4! Talk about uncool...My swag is gone for the moment...
Hopefully I'll have good news later today...
I went to do a routine brake job...
bought nice shiny new rotors and ceramic brake pads...
did my passenger side with no problem...
went to take my driver side wheel off and realized my error...
I believe I torqued my wheels way too tight!
I have stripped studs and rounded nuts on too of the lugs...
I did research, ive tried gator grips, Everything short of sawing or drilling the dang thing off...
Used a few cuss words that don't come out of my mouth very often and that didn't help either...
so today I'm taking it to my buddy's shop to see if they can do anything with it...
the depression is starting to sink in...I haven't drove my truck in days...and I'm toolin around in a GD Rav4! Talk about uncool...My swag is gone for the moment...
Hopefully I'll have good news later today...
The studs are usually pressed into the hub. If the garage doesn't have access to a shop press, look for one that does and you usually need a bit of a setup to hold the plate on the hub steady while pressing out the studs.
DO NOT USE HEAT.
Get a quote on pressing out the stripped studs and pressing in the new ones - it may be just as cheap to replace the whole hub, you could do this yourself.
DO NOT USE HEAT.
Get a quote on pressing out the stripped studs and pressing in the new ones - it may be just as cheap to replace the whole hub, you could do this yourself.
well i got it sorted out...
it wasn't as bad as i thought it was...
my buddy hammered a socket on and used an impact and BAM they both came off like nothing...
needless to say, an air compressor and an impact wrench are the next items on my tool lists...
no stripped lug studs...just had to replace the lug nuts...
it wasn't as bad as i thought it was...
my buddy hammered a socket on and used an impact and BAM they both came off like nothing...
needless to say, an air compressor and an impact wrench are the next items on my tool lists...
no stripped lug studs...just had to replace the lug nuts...
well i got it sorted out...
it wasn't as bad as i thought it was...
my buddy hammered a socket on and used an impact and BAM they both came off like nothing...
needless to say, an air compressor and an impact wrench are the next items on my tool lists...
no stripped lug studs...just had to replace the lug nuts...
it wasn't as bad as i thought it was...
my buddy hammered a socket on and used an impact and BAM they both came off like nothing...
needless to say, an air compressor and an impact wrench are the next items on my tool lists...
no stripped lug studs...just had to replace the lug nuts...
Is your lug wrench the correct size? Only time I've rounded off a lug nut was trying to use the wrong size wrench. Can happen easily if you have metric size lugs and SAE size lug wrench, or vice-versa. Been there, done that.
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I've done that with the nuts that have the chrome steel cladding, instead of chrome plating. The cladding will come loose after a number of uses and will eventually rotate over the real nut (the lug nut removal sockets won't help either since the cladding will rotate both ways) - these are real easy to round off as well, especially when using an impact wrench. If you run across this situation, you can use a cold chisel to remove the cladding and then find a socket that will fit what's left - this will normally look something like a standard steel lug nut.
You should buy the absolutely correct sized 6 point impact socket (even if you don't get an air impact for a while) and put your lug nuts on with anti-sieze compound. Properly fitting sockets don't round the heads on the lugnuts as easily. A torque wrench to go with the new socket might be a good idea as well. Torque your wheels on in steps and recheck after a day or so.
When it comes time to get an air impact, you can go with Snap-on or Ingersol Rand; if you can afford the high priced brand they're good investments. I got tired of the cheap underpowered entry level air impacts and tried Harbor Freight's 'Earthquake' 1/2 in drive air impact. It works well and will work the lugnuts off my motorhome (torqued on to about 190 ft lb) after a couple of years of driving. The torque for the impact is listed as about 600 ft lb, it's overstated, but still pretty good I think.
When it comes time to get an air impact, you can go with Snap-on or Ingersol Rand; if you can afford the high priced brand they're good investments. I got tired of the cheap underpowered entry level air impacts and tried Harbor Freight's 'Earthquake' 1/2 in drive air impact. It works well and will work the lugnuts off my motorhome (torqued on to about 190 ft lb) after a couple of years of driving. The torque for the impact is listed as about 600 ft lb, it's overstated, but still pretty good I think.






