Ok, so I came across an extra radio bezel from a junker. Guy gave it to me with the 4x4 control ****. I don't have 4x4, but I wanted to add a few interior accessories (ie lights etc). For you electronic wizards out there, any idea if I could use it as a switch to turn led accent lights or extra fog lights on and off?

 

Find out what kind of switch it is. SPST? SPDT? DPDT? Momentary? IIRC, it's a spring loaded switch that returns to center, but I don't know if it latches. A wiring diagram showing the switch would help.

 

In my opinion, there are a lot of options for consideration - too many to list and explain. To recommend solutions, we would need to know if you're adding a new device or you just want to move the control of a current device to a new location. Keep in mind that the OEM approach is to have many of these devices (such as fog lights etc.) controlled by the PCM (the switch sends a signal to the PCM and the PCM then activates the function selected). If the device isn't currently programmed for use in the PCM, I would recommend creating a separate circuit/harness that would bypass the PCM and control the device the "old way". If you're designing new circuits, remember to include fuses and relays in your diagram, and if the device you're controlling is digital, I'd also recommend using some "debounce" components to give you a one-shot on/off signal.

As for that 4x4 switch, personally, I wouldn't use it. I'd certainly use the position, but there are so many multi-position rotary switches available, that I would just buy what I needed to support my design. Unless you can open that 4x4 switch to confirm it's only a switch and has no electronic components imbedded, you could end up with unexpected issues. That switch position is almost out of sight, so it would be very easy to use some Krylon spray paint to cover the 4x4 position selection stencil and then use an off-the-shelf **** to control a standard rotary switch - there are lots of choices in **** design, so you can easily get something that will blend in or stand out and make a statement. If you have problems finding electronic components like switches, *****, relays, fuses, etc., go to the Mouser site, they have a huge variety for good prices & reasonable shipping fees. I use them for a lot of my electronic components, I find that some of the "locals" like Radio Shack have a very limited selection and inflated prices (my opinion).

 

Yeah I'm gonna investigate what kind of switch it is: whether double or single pole or whatever. Basically all I'm looking to do is have a simple way to turn some interior LEDs on and off when they are already wired into a separate fuse.

I will check about the wiring and dissect the switch as it is. I'll try my best to document what I find and let you all know what I find.

Tha me for the input

 

Well, you know that it's at least a 3 position (the term poles is used for things like toggle switches, from the traditional copper "poles" that were used for the switching) rotary switch to cover the 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. What you don't know if there are any built-in electronic components for things like signal debounce. They may do all that smoothing in the PCM, but that's not guaranteed. A rotary switch can be purchased very inexpensively and then you know what you're using, they come with various number of positions and gangs or banks. You probably don't need anything more than a 1 bank rotary with as many positions as you want for functions. Keep in mind that on a 4 position rotary switch with position 1 being OFF, to get to the third function, you need to go through function 1 and function 2, and to get to OFF, you will go through function 2 and 1 - this will momentarily activate functions 1 & 2. If you want to go directly from an OFF condition to a specific function, then you can use a group of toggles, push button switches, or if you do want to use a rotary, you'd need a time-delay on each function to stop it's activation when you're just rotating through. If the momentary activation doesn't matter, rotary switches are good and occupy relatively little space for a lot of switching.

 

i just had an idea...would using a stock fog light switch be easier...it has a "push in" function that could mean "ON or OFF" and three different positions for what ever you want...

(I know thats not what you have but i am curious after reading what alfons said)

 

Wow! Thanks for the info! I have found a new love lol. I am starting to dabble in electronics and that site, along with tiger direct and a few others will be awesome for getting supplies to build cool stuff.

One question tho: Any idea where I could get a good deal on Linear Actuators? For example, like the ones you see on rear hatches that automatically open and close?

 

The push could be the same way, It simple tells the PCM to "turn on" the fogs well the switch is a momentary one. Then when pushed again it tells it to "turn off" the lights. It doesnt make a full circuit well they are on, just a quick one to tell me PCM.

I would think the 4x4 would be a better idea, Simple because you dont have to cut into any OEM Wiring, Just go get the Connector and a foot of cable out of a wreck and splice into that. Once you find out how it works.

 

You're right, push buttons that feed a signal to a computer generally are "momentary on" switches and the computer decides on what to do with each button push (similar to the start/stop button you see in vehicles these days). With the PCM involved in almost all functionality of today's vehicles, to avoid surprises with "add-on" electrical components, I strongly recommend making your own add-on circuits. To avoid the splice-in clutter that often invades a vehicles wiring harness after an owner decides to add stuff, I'd recommend adding a junk-yard or after market power distribution center. These come with a lot of wiring, fuse slots, relay sockets, etc. and can easily be connected to both ground and +12 from the battery (this would become your only splice and you can get a battery connector that has connectability for at least 2 cables. I used to do quite a bit of work with older jeeps and ended up with a bunch of YJ and XJ distribution boxes, so that's normally what I use. You can then lay out your additional harnesses neatly and bug free. For some add-ons, especially those that suck up a lot of power like e-fans, don't forget to add some back emf protection (you're protecting existing electronics like the PCM etc. against the current generated by electric motors after the power has been turned off to power them as a motor).