2008 Dakota Electrical Issue
Ok, so the problems are: lights flickering, radio randomly has no power, there is a quiet thumping/knocking noise in the passenger side floor board area, and when key is turned all indicator lights on dash light up but doesn't start up. There might be a few others I am forgetting, but you get the point, hopefully. I can only find these symptoms related to a bad CTM-BCM, but the dealer I took it to said that the CTM was no longer used in this year model. If the CTM is no longer used what replaced it and took over the functions of the CTM? I have absolutely no clue about Dodge stuff, this is my girlfriend's truck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Garrett
Garrett
This may sound pretty basic, but have you had the battery checked? If it is factory original, 2008 is about five years old. Chrysler products start to do all sorts of funky electrical things when the battery isn't up to par.
As far as the thumping in the floorboard, that usually means something is loose in the suspension in that area. In the older trucks, a thumping there meant that one of the shock bolts was loose. Perhaps it needs new struts, since the newer Dakotas use those instead of shocks in the front. It could also be some other defective part in the front suspension besides the strut. I'd advise getting a trusted-mechanic/shop to take a quick look at the front suspension.
As far as the thumping in the floorboard, that usually means something is loose in the suspension in that area. In the older trucks, a thumping there meant that one of the shock bolts was loose. Perhaps it needs new struts, since the newer Dakotas use those instead of shocks in the front. It could also be some other defective part in the front suspension besides the strut. I'd advise getting a trusted-mechanic/shop to take a quick look at the front suspension.
Well, the battery is only a couple of months old. Also, the thumping is more like a relay click in and out. You know what I mean? That electrical "click" as the contacts close. It is more like behind the glove box really.
*Edit* - Just had the battery checked it was good, but only 68% charge. I am charging it tonight to full, then will have alternator tested tomorrow.
*Edit* - Just had the battery checked it was good, but only 68% charge. I am charging it tonight to full, then will have alternator tested tomorrow.
Last edited by gegentry04; Apr 13, 2013 at 09:03 PM.
Well, the battery is only a couple of months old. Also, the thumping is more like a relay click in and out. You know what I mean? That electrical "click" as the contacts close. It is more like behind the glove box really.
*Edit* - Just had the battery checked it was good, but only 68% charge. I am charging it tonight to full, then will have alternator tested tomorrow.
*Edit* - Just had the battery checked it was good, but only 68% charge. I am charging it tonight to full, then will have alternator tested tomorrow.
- Bad connection to the battery
- Bad battery ground
- Positive or negative cable in poor condition
- Poor connection at the Power Distribution Box
Alright, I charged the battery up and found the voltage regulator to be bad. I ordered the new alternator and will install tomorrow when it comes in. Hopefully it will resolve all issues. I will keep updating.
In regards to the thumping, it had nothing to do with the starter. My fault for not describing it properly. The truck would be running fine and the sound would be coming from the glove compartment area.
In regards to the thumping, it had nothing to do with the starter. My fault for not describing it properly. The truck would be running fine and the sound would be coming from the glove compartment area.
I'm pretty sure it is in the PCM, unless Chrysler has changed design recently. He may be referring to the Diode pack that converts the Alternator's AC power into DC.
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Have you checked the fuses by any chance? I have seen something similar and it turned out to be the 2A fuse for the ignition circuit that was blown. It has the same effect, full lights/power/everything but won't even try to start.
Side note: This has always happened after messing with the radio wiring.
Side note: This has always happened after messing with the radio wiring.
Last edited by Tygarys; Apr 16, 2013 at 11:24 AM.
Well, I changed the alternator due to the voltage regulator in it being bad (tested at Autozone). The problems persist though, the starter now at times stays engaged and truck doesn't start like it isn't getting fuel. However, turn the keep off and right back on and starts just fine. Can anyone tell me what the Module P/N: P05187089AI what part is this and what does it do? It is located on the passenger side of the truck all the way up against the firewall almost with a few large cluster plugs running to it. I checked a few of the fuses that seemed logically connected to the problems, but they were all intact. Also, the large black relay/fuses are in the fuse box.
Garrett
**edit** I think the module in question is the Engine Control Module.
**edit** Checked all fuses, none were blown. The relays seem to not be getting the right signals, unless all relays went bad all at once..unlikely.
Garrett
**edit** I think the module in question is the Engine Control Module.
**edit** Checked all fuses, none were blown. The relays seem to not be getting the right signals, unless all relays went bad all at once..unlikely.
Last edited by gegentry04; Apr 16, 2013 at 07:21 PM.
When you say that the starter stays engaged, do you mean that when you let the key go from START to ON, the starter still turns? If this is the case, I'd be concerned about the starter switch (there are often 2 parts to the switch - the mechanical piece with the switch contacts in it can sometimes become faulty. Contacts can burn or fuse). I had such a problem once on a GM pickup and got the mechanical portion at a salvage yard.
The big module is the Powertrain control Module (PCM).
The big module is the Powertrain control Module (PCM).


