2005 Dakota Water Pump - my time has come
#1
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I've have small amounts of antifreeze puddling up under my truck since last fall. It seems to be leaking from around the water pump.
I've had to add radiator fluid twice so far to replenish the lost amount.
Now, the fluid no longer leaks, but the truck is starting push the temp gauge to the max.
I can only assume the water pump is now failing.
So, that being said, tomorrow morning I will make my way to Autozone and buy a new pump, along with the 180 thermostat and replace both.
I've researched this site as well as many other sites for tips and instruction ion how to replace.
As for the water pump, it seems I'm looking at basically:
- draining the radiator fluid - any specific point to drain from?
- loosen belt at tensioner
- remove all bolts in wtare pump taking note of longer and shorter bolt locations
- clean old gasket material off
- replace new gasket (possibly using new gasket material)
- replace and tighten belt
Now some have said I need to remove/replace fan clutch to do this, others have said I don't. Not too sure what to make of that, haven't looked under the truck yet.
Any tips or ideas on how to proceed?
Thanks in advance
I've had to add radiator fluid twice so far to replenish the lost amount.
Now, the fluid no longer leaks, but the truck is starting push the temp gauge to the max.
I can only assume the water pump is now failing.
So, that being said, tomorrow morning I will make my way to Autozone and buy a new pump, along with the 180 thermostat and replace both.
I've researched this site as well as many other sites for tips and instruction ion how to replace.
As for the water pump, it seems I'm looking at basically:
- draining the radiator fluid - any specific point to drain from?
- loosen belt at tensioner
- remove all bolts in wtare pump taking note of longer and shorter bolt locations
- clean old gasket material off
- replace new gasket (possibly using new gasket material)
- replace and tighten belt
Now some have said I need to remove/replace fan clutch to do this, others have said I don't. Not too sure what to make of that, haven't looked under the truck yet.
Any tips or ideas on how to proceed?
Thanks in advance
#2
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One of the easier jobs you can do. Drain as much out of the radiator as you can from the drain. More will come out when you pop the pump off so have something under there to catch it. Go ahead and take the belt off, that way it wont be in your way. Cant remember about the fan clutch as I had an efan, take a look and see if the pump can come out without removing it. It's not that big a deal the take the fan off if it's in the way. My water pump took me literally 20 mins to change. Spent more time filling and bleeding the cooling system afterwards.
Last edited by jkeaton; 05-13-2013 at 04:03 PM.
#3
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Looks like you have the plan. I had to replace the pump on my 3.7l '06 last month. Mine utilizes an rubber O-ring type gasket. Yours should be the same. Made the job a bit easy. Pull the old clean up the mating surface and install the new. (I did coat the new "gasket" with engine oil prior to assembly to help ensure a good seal).
Idler pulley just left of the pump needed to be removed. I pulled the pump, clutch fan and for some reason the ONE PIECE fan shroud together as I couldn't get the fan off with it in place. (Be mindful of the fan and radiator.) Fans LOVE to bite radiators. Simple protective measure? Place a piece of cardboard between the two. Lacking a proper spanner tool, I had a heck of a time getting the clutch off the old pump. Let's just say it's a good thing the new one I got didn't have a core deposit. LOL! bit of lock-tight on the threads prior to installing the fan clutch on the new pump.
Specific point to drain from? Drain **** on the bottom tank of the radiator. Just take the cap off, open the valve and go grab some coffee. (It takes a lil bit to drain) OR you can make a nice mess by pulling the lower hose loose. Drains a LOT quicker doing that. But good luck catching the flow in a bucket. LoL
Idler pulley just left of the pump needed to be removed. I pulled the pump, clutch fan and for some reason the ONE PIECE fan shroud together as I couldn't get the fan off with it in place. (Be mindful of the fan and radiator.) Fans LOVE to bite radiators. Simple protective measure? Place a piece of cardboard between the two. Lacking a proper spanner tool, I had a heck of a time getting the clutch off the old pump. Let's just say it's a good thing the new one I got didn't have a core deposit. LOL! bit of lock-tight on the threads prior to installing the fan clutch on the new pump.
Specific point to drain from? Drain **** on the bottom tank of the radiator. Just take the cap off, open the valve and go grab some coffee. (It takes a lil bit to drain) OR you can make a nice mess by pulling the lower hose loose. Drains a LOT quicker doing that. But good luck catching the flow in a bucket. LoL
#4
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OK. not gonna lie. that was a bitch.
Although only the part of separating the fan clutch from the water pump was hell. WOW.
I had to Sawzall right thru the giant nut that holds it all together. Although i was only able to make it half way through, all around, it was enough to finally get that freakin thing loosened.
Other than that, the thermostat replacement was easy as was the install of the new clutch and water pump.
Question - I did not go with the 180 tstat, instead stayed with the "stock" 195 with failsafe.
Now the temp gauge on my truck reads right in the middle, pretty much right on the middle line. It used to read about an 1/8" below that line, now it stays in the middle.
I don't think it's a problem, - BUT - i wanted to know if anyone (with the standard 195 degree) else has that same reading on their temp gauge as a normal warm point?
Although only the part of separating the fan clutch from the water pump was hell. WOW.
I had to Sawzall right thru the giant nut that holds it all together. Although i was only able to make it half way through, all around, it was enough to finally get that freakin thing loosened.
Other than that, the thermostat replacement was easy as was the install of the new clutch and water pump.
Question - I did not go with the 180 tstat, instead stayed with the "stock" 195 with failsafe.
Now the temp gauge on my truck reads right in the middle, pretty much right on the middle line. It used to read about an 1/8" below that line, now it stays in the middle.
I don't think it's a problem, - BUT - i wanted to know if anyone (with the standard 195 degree) else has that same reading on their temp gauge as a normal warm point?
#5
#6
#7
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One of the easier jobs you can do. Drain as much out of the radiator as you can from the drain. More will come out when you pop the pump off so have something under there to catch it. Go ahead and take the belt off, that way it wont be in your way. Cant remember about the fan clutch as I had an efan, take a look and see if the pump can come out without removing it. It's not that big a deal the take the fan off if it's in the way. My water pump took me literally 20 mins to change. Spent more time filling and bleeding the cooling system afterwards.