Prep Ex. Manifold for Re-Install ???
About to Re-Install my exhaust manifold now that I have it repainted. I know I need to clean off all the old gasket, and I know I'm supposed to be real careful not to gouge or scratch it (so it makes a good seal)... But mine is already pitted and rough as hell... That being the case using the old "Sand Paper on Glass" trick to smooth it as much as I can, would using a high temp gasket sealer work to fill any possible gaps that might be left over?
Any other ideas?
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Any other ideas?
E0F08059-6739-4C04-B75E-1AD909BA31AC-2134-000000EB8844FBB8.jpg
I would go to Advance, or your local auto parts store, and pick up a 3M paint stripper and light rust remover wheel for your drill. It should be brick-red in color. Don't get the black one. Lightly hit up your areas, don't dig into them. If you have a standard 90 degree air tool, you can get the smaller 3M pads. These are a lot easier to control than the drill and wheel combo. But, I figure I would list it incase you didn't have air tools. Also, pick up a can of Permatex Copper Spray and coat both sides of your new exhaust manifold gaskets. This will help create an excellent seal.
Thanks! Worked out real good so far, still want to do a little more sanding on glass to make it as flat as possible, but the results are far better than what I started with.
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9D647D92-629E-4C64-98CD-CE81E116BDCD-3158-0000016CD43F7547.jpg
Looks good. I will probably be in the same boat this weekend. If I clean mine up and use a special header paint to make them look good you think I will be good without running the heat shields? I could use that foil-looking wrap from the parts stores around any rubber hoses. Stealership quote me $87 for all the hardware including the nuts/bolts for the flange. Not too bad and they have them in stock so I wouldn't have to wait for shipping. He was honest with me about WHY they are in stock
Last edited by 06Dak4.7Silver; Jul 2, 2013 at 05:42 PM.
If you shop around you can find better prices. I was lucky that this guy was local. But he would still ship.
The bolts and nuts for the flange are more expensive, but still $87 seems like a lot.
I would be careful running without heat shields. If you don't, you really have to make sure that anything sensitive is covered up. I'm painting my heat shields to look better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-4-7L-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-BOLT-SET-2003-2011-RAM-1500-CHEROKEE-DAKOTA-/380561010282?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge&hash=item589b342e6a&vxp=mtr
The bolts and nuts for the flange are more expensive, but still $87 seems like a lot.
I would be careful running without heat shields. If you don't, you really have to make sure that anything sensitive is covered up. I'm painting my heat shields to look better.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-4-7L-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-BOLT-SET-2003-2011-RAM-1500-CHEROKEE-DAKOTA-/380561010282?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge&hash=item589b342e6a&vxp=mtr
Looks good. I will probably be in the same boat this weekend. If I clean mine up and use a special header paint to make them look good you think I will be good without running the heat shields? I could use that foil-looking wrap from the parts stores around any rubber hoses. Stealership quote me $87 for all the hardware including the nuts/bolts for the flange. Not too bad and they have them in stock so I wouldn't have to wait for shipping. He was honest with me about WHY they are in stock 

Check out my last post on the Discussion page under "Memorial Day Project"
I just posted how I painted my heat shield and I think it came out pretty good.


