After i was on the road with 4wd in the snow, my truck started clicking. The clicking only happens after 35mph. But if i put it in 4wd, its an immediate clunking from a dead stop. The clunking is the same clunking i had when i had a bad cv shaft on the driveshaft from the diff to the transfer case. But im confused cuz it clicks? Dont really notice a difference if im turning or not. Need help... Thanks!

 

Did you happen to replace the bad CV joint with another CV joint or, did you go with a double U-joint shaft? I had this same problem and I replaced the whole shaft with a double u-joint shaft. Those CV joints aren't the best things in the world and tend to break if you put them under a lot of stress. If this is the problem, the clicking is from the shaft rotating despite being in 2WD and, the clunk is from putting power to the front end in 4WD. When you get a chance crawl up under there and take a look around. Snap some pictures of that CV joint.

Another way to make sure this is the problem; jack the front end up, and climb under the truck, have a buddy turn the front wheels in 2WD and try to find where the sound is coming from. It could be the transfer case also, seeing as the the gears in there are always spinning as well.

Get back with us with what you find.

 

Well, the cv I replaced was from the transfer case to the diff. I kept the shaft, and rebuilt just the cv with a new one and also replaced the ujoint on the other end for the hell of it since I already had it out. It won't click till I hit 35mph so that would be impossible to spin the wheel by hand that fast. I had a friend listen and he thinks its more coming from the left side. I don't think its the transfer case, I've put like 100-200 miles on it since the noise started. It isn't loud either, I can barly hear it with my windows up. I usually turned on the stereo a notch and then I couldn't hear it. The clunking is the same clunk that I had with the cv connected to transfer case

 

Well, the cv at the transfer case seems to have a little play even tho I replaced it within the last 10,000 miles. The clicking is from that or the transfer case. I know its not from the front. (I had someone drive it by my as I listened and walked with it in 4wd.)

 

Thanks for all of the replies! (Sarcasm) this site seems dead since I was last on it.

It turned out to be the cv on the front drivelinethat connects to transfer case and diff. I eliminated that out originally since I replaced it a while back and I barely have drove it over the last year since I got adifferent car for mileage (a crown victoria)

 

It appears to me that you got the correct diagnosis & advise from the first person to offer it. Personally, I'd thank dimesismoneytoo for saving me a whole bunch of time eliminating incorrect suggestions.

New things break too.

 

YEah I know new things break. I got my car over a year ago and barely used the truck since. I used it last time it snowed last year and then the noise occurrd. And it hasn't snowed since, so I didn't really use my truck. With winter coming ahead, I wanna fix it so I can be ready. My car is horrible on ice and snow. Rwd for the win!

 

I would highly recommend a double u-joint front drive shaft. Throw to CV joint in the trash. The u-joint offers much more strength and also has grease fittings. Just my 2 cents.

 

Yes, but I'm real tight on money. I am currently not employed. Im gonna see if that cv's warranty is still good. IDk what the warranty was to be honest when I replaced it a year ago. I just didn't Wanna drive the truck around not knowing what the noise was. YOu know?

 

If you decide to change to a U-joint configuration, first have a look at the angle that you have between the drive shaft & the front differential. If you have an almost straight in configuration, you can go with a standard U-joint there, but if the angle is more than a couple of degrees (about 4 at max), go with a double cardan joint (this has 2 U-joints connected by a centering piece to keep the angle between the 2 joints identical). This configuration will give you an "almost" constant velocity output. U-joints (cardan joints) never do, it's a sinusoidal output from singles & close to constant from the double.