Changing NVLD Valve on Quad Cab Dakota 4X4
#1
Changing NVLD Valve on Quad Cab Dakota 4X4
Everything I have read says this is very easy. FSM describes it as:
The EVAP canister (2) is mounted to the top of the fuel tank (6). Both the EVAP canister (2) and NVLD pump (3)
can be removed without removing the fuel tank.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove left-rear tire.
3. Remove plastic shield in front of left-rear tire. Access to both the EVAP canister (2) and NVLD pump (3) from the
area in front of the removed tire.
I have removed the left rear tire and the plastic shield. I can barely see what I think is the evaporative canister, but the extended body on the Quad Cab leaves no room for changing any of these components. Has anyone changed the NVLD pump on a quad cab without dropping the tank? Wondering, if I should just create a trap door with Mr. Sawzall. Any ideas?
The EVAP canister (2) is mounted to the top of the fuel tank (6). Both the EVAP canister (2) and NVLD pump (3)
can be removed without removing the fuel tank.
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove left-rear tire.
3. Remove plastic shield in front of left-rear tire. Access to both the EVAP canister (2) and NVLD pump (3) from the
area in front of the removed tire.
I have removed the left rear tire and the plastic shield. I can barely see what I think is the evaporative canister, but the extended body on the Quad Cab leaves no room for changing any of these components. Has anyone changed the NVLD pump on a quad cab without dropping the tank? Wondering, if I should just create a trap door with Mr. Sawzall. Any ideas?
#2
You might just drop one end of the tank, not a bad job as long as the tank is almost empty.
Remember, Mr Sawzall likes to eat plastic. ;>)
#4
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Sandy, UT. (SLC Suburbs)
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Much easier than my 92 ranger. That was hell, but it had a real skid plate and thick driveshaft shield, instead of no plate and a simple heat shield. Once the skid plate was off, 3 bands held the tank up, 6 rusted bolts destroyed and finally got it down, only to realize the filler hose didn't give any play for the tank to drop, so I had to get to the band-clamp with the agility of a ninja. It never did work right after that, took 25 minutes to fill the tank each time lol. Aftermarket chinese filler hose.
#6
Being unimpressed with the lack of storage capacity in the Dak, I have often considered sawing out a section on both sides under the rear seat. A stainless steel half pan will fit in that space easily, and would give some extra storage room for tools, etc.. The pans are not deep enough to interfere with anything underneath the truck.
#7
Being unimpressed with the lack of storage capacity in the Dak, I have often considered sawing out a section on both sides under the rear seat. A stainless steel half pan will fit in that space easily, and would give some extra storage room for tools, etc.. The pans are not deep enough to interfere with anything underneath the truck.
underseat box finnished by evguy, on Flickr
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#9
Sawfish you should be able to get to that pump without dropping the tank. I mean it maybe just as easy to do so. Atleast my dealership didnt have to and it didnt look like I had to when I pulled the plastic fender shield to look at all the hoses and such for this same issue. The only reason I didnt change the nvld pump is solely because of the timing and my son was born the day it went in for a diagnostic. Its definitely tight in there, but maybe the extra cab space takes up all the room.
#10
Sawfish you should be able to get to that pump without dropping the tank. I mean it maybe just as easy to do so. Atleast my dealership didnt have to and it didnt look like I had to when I pulled the plastic fender shield to look at all the hoses and such for this same issue. The only reason I didnt change the nvld pump is solely because of the timing and my son was born the day it went in for a diagnostic. Its definitely tight in there, but maybe the extra cab space takes up all the room.