Have a P0302 code and it is audibly misfiring. Had the truck since spring and don't know the service history. With the assumption that it's probably copper spark plugs in there and it's probably dead I'm trying to pull the spark plug for a look see....


It's also -30 outside.

Cylinder 2 is the front passenger side if my reading is correct. This of means it's under the air intake to the the throttle body and a couple of other hoses with pressure fittings that are clipped in on both side of the intake manifold

I had hoped that after moving the intake aside, unscrewing the 10mm bolt and wiggling off the wiring that I could pull the spark plug coil pack out without removing any more hoses.... Apparently not.

Checked the service manual...

(1) Remove necessary air filter tubing at throttle
body.

Nice... In a heated garage with nice lighting these may be great directions. At -30 when I get about a minute before my hands freeze up each time and anything rubber or plastic is rock hard and ready to snap.. not so much.

What is the minimum that I have to disconnect to get the spark plug pack out so that I can access the spark plug?

Do I have to remove the intake manifold and the 2 pressure hoses underneath to access the spark plug for cylinder 2?

I'm hoping there is a wiggle trick that I don't know as this just seems like **** poor engineering if I have to pull pressure hoses to change a spark plug.

Thanks,
Robert

 

... found a video...


Apparently it is this poorly designed. Replace spark plugs every 30k and you have to pull everything apart to do it. By the looks of it they haven't been done for a long time or the number 2 spark plug has been passed over as too much work as the plastic housing on the the throttle body has one of those stupid single use hose clamps on it. Makes me think that it hasn't been touched since it came off warranty.

 

Your angry ramblings usually won't get you very far... anyways, you need to remove the intake tubing as said, and remove the mounting bolts that hold the AC lines. Cylinder 2 coil will be accessible afterwards. You may be able to access them without removing the intake tubing, but its most likely a pain; though the AC line mounts definitely need loosened; however you can pull them to the side with a bit of strength. A full disconnect is not need.The coils are quite long and require unbolting too. The 30k maintenance is solely based on an efficiency factor. The spark plugs are cheap and easy to replace and usually eliminate most everyday ignition issues.

The clamp you are talking about isnt a single use, its a tensioned clamp that's been heated and tempered to be a constant clamp. They can be reused unless its lost all of its strength which is usually pretty apparent or I have yet to find one thats lost some strength unless it was overly stretched.

 

It might be the coil itself. I had a random misfire on cyl 5 a while ago. i checked the plug, and it looked cracked. The boot on the coil seemed "strange" but didn't look too bad. i replaced the plug and swapped the cyl 3 and cyl 5 coil just incase. worked great for 3 weeks then the misfire came back, this time on cyl 3, so it was the coil that caused my plug to crack and my misfire.

I've changed my plugs when i bought the truck at around 30000 KM with the e3 plugs and just love them. They've been in for about 15000 KM now. They do make the truck peppier and i do get better gas mileage if i watch my right foot. Cyl 2 was a bitch to do, but it's not bad once you get the intake tube and intake muffler thing out of the way, and as Bolt says, the AC lines need to be loostened. Good thing the E3 plugs come in packs of 2 as i needed the second one when i replaced the coil.

Good luck

 

Will try swapping coils if spark plug isn't the problem. Spark plug socket is warming up as I type. The misfire isn't random at this point. At anything other than idle it is regular and audible.

Will have to do a compression test later this week and hope I didn't pop the head gasket. No overheating or low coolant occurring so I haven't obviously hurt the engine but I will be checking. Ran the engine at city speeds, low load for an hour or two with this going on Saturday.

With it only being 1 cylinder I am suspecting that either the plug or the coil pack are done. If it was fuel filter or vacuum leak I would expect the problem to run across more cylinders and/or occur at idle as well as load. Misfire reduces on a warm engine vs a cold one, as well, so I expect spark is the problem here. I've read that these are copper plugs so maintenance on these is not particualarily optional. Previous owner likely thought it was. I know my last set of platinum plugs ran well for 10 years and about 70k miles without needing needing replacement (and yes I pulled them and checked them occasionally).

 

Loosen AC line mounts perfect got it. Will make it easier going back in. I drive 30k every 6 months. Cheap to replace but not easy at -30 when done outside. At above freezing temperatures the hoses in the way would not be a significant issue but for a truck that can require work out on a site this is poor design. If you have the luxury of a heated shop and a tidy row of warm tools to do your repairs then it seems quite straight forward. Outside you have about a minute between having to warm up your hands from getting numb and anything plastic or rubber is prone to snap off in your hands if you lean on it.

In california all vehicles are well designed.

 

Just back outside to put in the spark plug socket. No room without loosening off the a/c lines....

A/C Lines are held by a plastic bracket that is integrated with the plastic piece sitting in front of the throttle body with the single use hose clamp to the throttle body. No nice bolts to loosen off here.

Climbed up on the top of the engine to see what holds this piece on after I removed the **** clamp with a flat head screw driver. The are 2 plastic rivet looking things. Not ready to pull on it till it snaps in my hands till I do some reading. I'm guessing mounting bolts for a/c lines are found on the v8. They aren't on the v6.

 

... naming of names ... I need to remove the "air cleaner resonator" to be known in future as "useless plastic crap" in front of the throttle body.

 

The bolts for the AC are under the Intake Hat, I removed mine (replaced it with Aluminum pipe from the TB to the Airbox) awhile ago, Better airflow this way, and easier access to stuff.

I was going to say I didnt have to remove anything todo my plugs, But I already had the Hat taken off. The bolts for it also hold hte AC lines.

 

Thanks... How is the intake hat bolted on? Looking for a picture of the assembly but haven't found one yet.