In order for your CAs to lift the truck at all, the suspension will have to have less droop than up-travel, correct? That's a good go fast/big hit set up.

Does 3" more tire mean diameter or radius (29"--35" or 30"--33"). Not knocking your set-up, just curious. I have no desire to lift other than for clearance issues. I could live with a 33, but in the end I think a 35 will be what I want. When my tires were new they were as tall as some 33s.

 

Control arms dont provide any lift. Lift comes from springs, spindles, tires, or moving everything down via xmembers. My control arms will be close to parallel to the ground which would actually lower the truck. But I have 33s and will get 3 inches from spindles and a couple inches from coilovers. So ill have travel all day long but my lift will be static from the spindles and tires.

ideally you want a little more droop then bump travel. So when your in the air your tires are drooped and theyre the first things to touch the ground and you let the progressive springs and shocks ease the truck back down for that Cadillac feel haha

 

Well if you push your CAs down to an angle and then lengthen them you can get a little extra lift but it depends all on the angle and how much you lengthen them so it usually isn't much especially since lengthening the CAs increases leverage on the springs causing them to compress easier.

 

But in a perfect world you don't want to push your control arms down at all. Parallel to the ground is perfect. Look at trophy trucks. They actually sit lower then most stock trucks. But when theyre in the air they droop down about 2 feet.

For the smoothest suspension for high speed desert. You want all your lift to be in tires and spindles. You want to squat low to the ground but allow your tires enough travel to soak up a landing. Robby gordons testing vid shows how important droop is and how low those trucks actually sit


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnSaziUkByU&sns=em

 

Since I cant use drop spindles and I have to have a little lift for stuf***e, the JMR brackets are ideal(besides the price). I talked to them last night and the brackets are about 4.5" drops, which is an ideal lift. Just enough room to stuff a long CA at a 30 degree angle with a 35" tire on it. With the level kit removed and the drop brackets on the truck should only be 3" higher max (tires not included).

 

You could use drop spindles and a diff drop so long as the suspension cycles without CV axles contacting anything. Not plunging or anything in that scenario.

 

I am sure there is a way, but... it seems very far from ideal. is there any room to even drop the 4x4 hub? I am going to have clearance issues as it is with dirtfab's lower BJ/uni getting into my cv boot. I will, however, need taller knuckles with the x-member drop brackets. Cha ching. I just have to nail down a bare minimum for phase 1 of my project.

 

4x hubs and 2x hubs are the same it's a matter of whether you can get the CV axle to go in from behind the knuckle without hitting the joints and with the larger joints that is probably not possible but is still look just to see if it it were because it would be awesome if it were.

 

Not happening. I want the axels and CAs to be parallel anyways.

 

Jmr uses taller ram knuckles to keep the arm's angles in check when dropping the cross members. There is no possible way my long travel spindles would work with 4wd because the lower uniball is centered on the hub so there is 0 room for axles. But if your using Jmr stuff with my arms you wouldnt really be changing the geometry too far from factory anyway. And guys with lift kits almost always sacrifice travel for height...no way around it.