3rd Gen Dakota 2005 - 2011 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 3rd Gen Dakota.

2.5" 4x4 Leveling kit install guide

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 05-09-2014, 08:05 AM
jkeaton's Avatar
jkeaton
jkeaton is offline
DF Admin
Dodge Forum Administrator
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Winston Salem, NC
Posts: 27,777
Received 340 Likes on 303 Posts
Default

Wrong post.
 
  #12  
Old 05-10-2014, 10:26 AM
Ronius_MAXimus's Avatar
Ronius_MAXimus
Ronius_MAXimus is offline
Professional
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bchapin05
I figured it out. Took about 7 hours minus a few breaks for dinner and to take a break from getting annoyed at the install. Honestly now that I've done it I could do it again in 2 hrs. Just took a lot of trial and error. The key was the pry bar. Instead of racheting to the jack I went from the upper arm to the lower control arm. Pulled it as tight as I could, then used my pry bar to pull the upper bar down further. I was pulling about as hard as I could. Then I'd tighten the strap to hold it there. Put the jack on the bolt below the rotor. If u have a helper they are very useful at this point. I had my girlfriend crank the jack while I guided the bolt up to the arm. Once it was close I cranked as hard as I could again on the pry bar until I could feel thread and get the nut on. At that point the hard stuff is done.

The only issue I had is when taking off the calipers the pads fall off. I either didn't get something right putting them back. Or I accidently turned the wrong bolt once and bled out some fluid. So now my brakes are softer. I'll mess with them this weekend.
Thanks, it sounds like such a pain to do myself. My mechanic tried the pry bar and strap trick and couldn't get it done. Man if you were in Portland I would pay you buy you a drink to help me. I really need the kit on my truck because with the 265-70-17 tires i'm running, the right side rubs the inner fender liner and i've trimmed it a good too many times and still rubs.
 
  #13  
Old 05-12-2014, 11:50 AM
bchapin05's Avatar
bchapin05
bchapin05 is offline
Professional
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That's weird your mechanic can't get it. I was struggling for a bit and almost gave up at one point and figured I was going to have to pay someone. But once I realized how far I could move the upper arm with the pry bar it wasn't too bad.

Now I just need tires and wheels. Mine came with 245/70/16 tires and one was almost bald so I'm rocking three small tires and a spare which looks bad.
 
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
truck.jpg (38.6 KB, 34 views)
  #14  
Old 05-13-2014, 03:14 PM
bchapin05's Avatar
bchapin05
bchapin05 is offline
Professional
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I'm an idiot and installed the rear spring block on top of the spring. I realized yesterday that wouldn't actually lift the truck. So I redid it last night and got the block under the spring. So now the back sits a touch higher again. But here is the RC 2.5/1.5
 
  #15  
Old 05-16-2014, 06:40 AM
Wis Bighorn's Avatar
Wis Bighorn
Wis Bighorn is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Is it necesary to pull the whole stut out or can you just use a spring compressor to get the spacer in?
 
  #16  
Old 05-16-2014, 12:40 PM
bchapin05's Avatar
bchapin05
bchapin05 is offline
Professional
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You pull the strut out which is really easy as long as the nuts come lose. Mine weren't bad probably took me 2 minutes to pull it out once the rest of it was undone.

The spacer goes on top of the strut so you don't actually undo the strut. Which is nice because when I did my ex's Liberty back in the day the spacer went in the spring and you had to compress it. Was a huge pain in the ***.

So pull the strut and then spin it 180 degrees and put it back in. The directions I used didn't say to spin it 180 so I was confused for a bit on how to get the bolt holes to line up. That part is really easy. The only difficult part is getting the upper and lower arms to get close enough together to reattach the upper arm bolt.
 
  #17  
Old 05-17-2014, 04:56 PM
Wis Bighorn's Avatar
Wis Bighorn
Wis Bighorn is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by bchapin05
You pull the strut out which is really easy as long as the nuts come lose. Mine weren't bad probably took me 2 minutes to pull it out once the rest of it was undone.

The spacer goes on top of the strut so you don't actually undo the strut. Which is nice because when I did my ex's Liberty back in the day the spacer went in the spring and you had to compress it. Was a huge pain in the ***.

So pull the strut and then spin it 180 degrees and put it back in. The directions I used didn't say to spin it 180 so I was confused for a bit on how to get the bolt holes to line up. That part is really easy. The only difficult part is getting the upper and lower arms to get close enough together to reattach the upper arm bolt.
So you have turn the strut 180* . That blows my idea. I was thinking just remove the three nuts on top of the strut, compress the strut with the suspension at full droop and slip the spacer in on top of the strut.
But if the strut needs to be turned that won't work.
 



Quick Reply: 2.5" 4x4 Leveling kit install guide



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:20 PM.