Okay so I have a 2005 dakota that I put a 2 inch leveling kit on which was just the spacer above the strut and the rear spacer plus the longer struts. Then I put a 6 inch performance accessories body lift on it so I could fit 33". I know it's not from the body lift but I have put 3 cv axles in the front end since the lift was on and a control arm and upper ball joint and also tierod ends both sides. Upper ball joint is bad again and my cv axles are both ripped open. I called the guys at Jack My Ride and they said either buy our suspension lift with all the parts for 6 grand or take out the spacers. Well I can't turn back and can't afford the other lift so does anybody know a affordable solution to fix the angles in my front end? I can afford a grand or two but not 6. Thanks



This is my truck

 

Buy the differential drop kit from JMR.

 

Yup. You go that high, with those big of tires, unless you drop the diff, there is nothing else you can do except put those heim(sp?) joints on instead of cv axles.

 

But I should be able to properly have a leveling kit on? It's only high because of the body lift but that doesn't affect my front end. I see so many trucks on here who have successfully had a leveling kit with no problems. Did I buy the wrong one? Or what? JMR said if I do the diff drop then my cv axles will be too long.

 

I reread. You only have a 2" leveling kit. That shold be ok UNLESS you are driving hard, off roading, articulating.....I had a 2" on mine, but mine was a pavement queen. Never had an issue.

 

my guess is that you flex out the truck more than most guys with level kits and stress the cvs and whatnot more. I ran a level kit for 40k miles and flexed em good. I could feel them bind at full droop, however, they never failed-- they are very worn-- but not broken.

so: the diff drop brackets from jmr would remedy, but i dont like the idea of dropping the diff/axles and not the CAs--i think they should be parallel to eachother along with the tie rods, but the plunge of the CVs will probably compensate for it.

i think a 6" body lift (zoinks!) should clear your 33s without the level kit. there are guys running 33s with a 1.5-2" level kit and a 3" body lift. no probs from them.

what is failing on the cvs? the inner i presume. you could upgrade them with kore cvs for rams; they are compatible; then you could keep your 2". they are about 700$ i believe, and require fitment to your existing axles.

if you have to have that extra 2" (dont we all?) then you'll have to shell out. either the full jmr kit or replace cvs all the time or once with Kores. consider that the cvs are cheap and easy to replace. you can buy lots of them before paying 6k$ for jmr. the tie rods and bjs start to add up though. i was looking at replacing all the BJs/CAs, TREs, struts, and probably CVs soon with the same crap that failed already, so I opted to drop coin on a long travel kit that replaced it all with quality stuff and alleviated the steep angles.

so diff drop brackets (250$) actually seem the most fesible, but wont help you with BJs or TREs.

 

Heims (rose joints/spherical bearings/uniballs) are used in rod end/ball joint/link/suspension aplications They are unrelated to CV joints in my experience. Hope you dont mind me clarifying.

 

No problem. I though someone did that on here once.....maybe it was for tie rod ends...probably..lol

 

I think this is the key - if you have 2" leveling kit, plus longer struts, you are over 2", which is more than 'sperience on here recommends.

 

"And the rear spacer?"

My guess is blocks and he confused "strut" for "shock"

Being that there is no longer struts in existence for our trucks. Im assuming he meant rear shocks.

Either way. Your cvs will almost always be the limiting factor. If you got 2 grand to splurge i would beef those up.

And was your bumper made prior to the body lift?