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Rear main

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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 08:44 PM
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Default Rear main

So the shop who I don't trust told me my rear main was leaking. I'd prefer to confirm it first since they have told me wrong things multiple times.

It's very recent as I used to go 4K miles without adding any oil. Now at 4000 I'm on the add line. I also found oil on the driveway, but it seems to leak when parked on an incline but not level or a decline.

Based on the pic location any other things to check besides just assuming the shop is right and it's the rear seal? Truck has 120k 3.7
 

Last edited by bchapin05; Jan 26, 2016 at 08:46 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 05:30 PM
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That's the right place for a rear seal.

Which motor is that? 3.7, 3.9, 4.7, 5.2, 5.9?

Some other choices would be the rear of the valve cover gaskets leaking down, the rear of the intake leaking (if the 3.7/4.7 pipe oil through it - the 3.9/5.2/5.9 don't), a leaking oil pressure sending unit on the 3.9/5.2/5.9, or the front seal on the transmission. For all but the front seal on the transmission, you'll see marks for the other leaks. For that, it'll be transmission fluid (and usually a LOT redder than this!).

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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 05:47 PM
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3.7 and yeah it definitely looks like engine oil. I had seen it in that location for awhile but it was so slow it never concerned me. Like I said I could go 4k miles without even dropping on the oil stick, but this time it was down to the add line after 4k and I did notice oil on the garage floor for the first time.

If it is the real main I'd prefer to change it myself since the part is super cheap, but unfortunately there isn't much info or any how to guides out there on a Dakota rear main that I've been able to find. And I've searched quite a bit
 
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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 11:31 PM
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Not that big of a job if you don't mind removing the transmission flywheel/driveplate. Then pry out seal check to make sure crankshaft is not worn or damaged if it is it will leak lube new seal lip with engine oil and install
 
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 07:58 AM
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Like djibara described. Changing it is no big deal, getting to it is.

The FSM that is in the links in the sticky will tell you how to do it. Any video on rear seal on the Use Toob will give you the basics, but you are going to be under the truck for a long time getting to the seal.

On a positive note, all that oil should help to move things along . . . .
 
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Old Jan 28, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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Not to mention, it'll help fight the Rust Worms!

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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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Thanks yeah I might wait a bit until it is worse..But I'm one of those than any small thing bugs me on my truck and I feel the whole truck is a POS until I fix it. So I normally end up fixing everything quickly.

I'll check the sticky out. The shop that originally told me it was leaking wanted 700 to do it. I'm sure I could probably get around 500 if I shopped around. If I decided to be lazy
 
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by northgator8
Like djibara described. Changing it is no big deal, getting to it is.

The FSM that is in the links in the sticky will tell you how to do it. Any video on rear seal on the Use Toob will give you the basics, but you are going to be under the truck for a long time getting to the seal.

On a positive note, all that oil should help to move things along . . . .

I've actually tried to download the FSM multiple times and either got a virus or malicious download blocked everytime.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bchapin05
I've actually tried to download the FSM multiple times and either got a virus or malicious download blocked everytime.
Click on the thread link below my signature picture.

The FSM link works fine there.
 
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