I suspect the issue is not completely resolved (misfiring on multiple cylinders, not enough to trigger anything yet). Failing the EVAP Monitor (Cap Off) test. I’ll update more later. Ideas of where to start checking?

 

Heres a thought, run the tank very low and put 93 or higher octane and rip the crap out of it on the highway, might be some type of crude causing these slight issues. And start truck and put your hand tail pipe wrapped in a towel and see if you van chocke the engine, if not a converter may be plugged.

 

Check engine light flashed again on the way to work this morning. Same P0300 code thrown.

On my last tank of gas I added a bottle of STP fuel injector cleaner. I thought of doing it immediately after filling the tank up so unfortunately I did not put it in prior to filling which would have been a better way to use. A colleague in the office told a story about someone who had bad gas in their tank to the point where there was so much water that they had to use a gas-line antifreeze & water remover like HEET. I also know some people who swear by Seafoam and have suggested that I try that. I am getting close to needing an oil change so if putting seafoam into the crankcase were a good idea, now would be a pretty good time to do it.
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Should I combine any of the additives that I mentioned with the higher octane on my next fill up? Should I try one without the other? Should I try drowning out the engine by putting a vaccuum line into a container of seaform and letting the engine suck up the seafoam until it dies? Or it could go into the crankcase or fuel tank as well? Or try the water remover?

 

I just looked around a little at others that had this code. Saw one guy had a spring inside one of his coils missing. Saw another guy had a bad injector. Like was said earlier, a lot of possibilities.

 

I bought a can of Seafoam and a bottle of STP's water remover. I removed the Hypertech tune and warmed to operating temperature. Split the seafoam can 1/3 into each: gas tank, crankcase, vaccum hose (from brake booster). Let it sit for 10 mins then rev'd it up and drove it around not being shy with the accelerator. Fuel became low enough to turn on light so I went to gas station. Put the water remover into fuel tank and put 94 octane in. Then I installed the Hypertech tune, this time selecting the premium tune, and I took it for another drive. So good so far, but not enough time has passed to really tell. Will keep updating as I go.

 

Over the past few days I've experienced some weird behavior while idling. I would be driving the truck and at a red light while sitting and idling my RPMs will drop down to around 500 and then shoot back up. I am not out of the woods yet.

On Sunday I decided to eliminate the possibility of a vaccuum leak so I took apart my K&N intake tube, the breather tube, the PCV to intake tube, the throttle body, and the MAP sensor. I gave everything a good clean, being cautious to make sure all gaskets and seals sit properly. Bolts were torqued to spec and everything put back together nicely. Start the truck up and immediately check engine light goes on and the idle is really rough. Threw a P0129 Barometric Pressure Too Low code.... great, I broke the MAP sensor. Next day I went to dealership in morning and ordered a new MAP sensor and a new air temperature sensor (the one I had worked but the top plastic piece that protects the tip of the sensor was broken and sensor diode's wires were slightly bent). Picked parts up in afternoon and installed onto truck. I also ended up soldering a couple 6" pieces of wire inline with the IAT sensor connector wiring just to give a bit more slack on the wire when it is connected to the sensor. With the extra slack I can now fully insert the IAT into the intake tube (before it was 1/4" out of fully seated). With the new MAP sensor and correctly installed IAT sensor I was hoping all would be good now.

Truck started up without issue and was running well. But then just yesterday I had the MIL light flash again indicating P0300. When home from work I changed the oil (Mobile 1 full synthetic and filter) and also decided to inspect the coils and spark plugs. When I took the spark plugs out I noticed pretty much all of them had a black ring right near the electrode, where the first set of threads begin. I do not know for sure, but I suspect that this is melted/burnt anti-seize. I used Permatex Silver Grade. Did I make a mistake for using anti-seize on the spark plug threads? I tried to use as minimal as possible but I could see how the anti-seize could have melted from the high heat and drip down towards the spark. This interference could definitely cause misfires, right? As for the plugs, the tips were okay, a couple seemed to be gapped slightly off and I fixed them before reinstalling. I also bought a product called Wire Dryer and sprayed this right up and into the coil where the spring is, this is supposed to remove wetness from electrical connectors. I moved the coils around to new cylinders and put everything back together. This was only last night but I did take it for a short drive late last night and it has gotten me into the office today.

Here are pictures of the coils. What do you guys think in terms of condition? There is some browning on the outside and inside of coil, I tried to capture in the pictures. My neighbour (class A mechanic) keeps telling me that any misfire issues are causing by bad plugs or bad coils, so I just wanted to see what you guys think?

 

I continue investigating for the cause of the misfires. Right now I am focused on the results from the Mode 6 information pulled from vehicle using BlueDriver.

Copy pasting the results here will look like trash. Instead I am going to host the results in a PDF format on my dropbox account. CLICK HERE to view the Mode 6 results.

As you can see, I am unable to complete my EVAP Monitor tests (small leak, large leak, and cap off), I am hitting purge flow errors, and the O2 heater temperature is giving me an error in-control time.


Can anyone make sense of what the car is telling me? I removed rear wheel and trim piece to gain access to pump and evap hoses. Based on what I could see, there were no cracks present. Any suggestions on what I can do here?

 

Might check around, and see if a local shop can smoke test the vapor recovery system.......

Looks like you are having issues with the O2 heater circuit as well...... I think there is actually a fuse for that.

 

Any idea what fuse number this would be? I thought ASD Fuad controls both ignition coils and oxygen heaters. If my car runs that means the coils are receiving power and ASD fuse is working?

 

I don't know.... no documentation for these..... Some have a separate relay for the heater circuit..... PDC under the hood?