2005 dodge Dakota problems. NEED HELP!!!
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2005 dodge Dakota problems. NEED HELP!!!
A few months ago the truck threw a check engine light and went into limp mode so I turned it off and drove to the local parts store to have the code ran and I had 2 codes p0700 and P0750. So I went and replaced the valve body and changed all fluids and filters and about a week later [yesterday} the truck would try to die as I was coming to a stop and it started shifting awkwardly and now it only goes in 1,2,3 gear and when I try to turn overdrive on and off it doesn’t do anything ( usually upshifts or downshifts) so I ran the codes and I got a few and I have no idea where to start and I need help. If anyone has seen or had these similar problems please comment any info will help.
DTC-1 of 5
DTC-1 of 5
- EATX Ctrller DTC/ p0700
- Trans fluid press low / P0868
- Gear 2 incorrect ratio/ P0732
- Lost comm with Tcm/ U0101
- Lost comm with ECM/PCM A/ U0100
Last edited by Bdddawson; Mar 6, 2018 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Forgot to enter a few things.
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Was going to ask the same thing. A weak battery causes all kings of weird fits with the TCM/PCM. There is a high probability that your problems are voltage phantoms. First suggestion; Ensure the battery is fully charged and in good condition. If your battery is more than 4 years old or unknown, replace it with a new one of good quality brand. Verify the alternator is working properly and charging.
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I have already replaced the battery like a week ago. When it tries to die it seems like it’s actually not downshifting when it should so it tries to stall until it downshifts back to 1st about 2 seconds after I come to a complete stop.
Last edited by Bdddawson; Mar 6, 2018 at 08:53 PM. Reason: Misspelled a few things.
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I had a cracked battery terminal shortly after I got my truck a couple years ago that caused a bunch of weird problems and it was reasonably snug too.After I replaced it and cleared the codes all has been fine since.
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I’m going to my parents this week.where I had left the truck and I’m going to test all the connections I have replaced the terminals also but maybe the cables need replaced. I will be going through everything I can think of. I really hope somewhere in the charging system is causing the stink.
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Do not panic and run off to the transmission shop, hold onto your wallet. Check a few simple things first.
Example story: A few months ago son comes back from hockey game and says the transmission in the truck is toast. I am shocked. A few days earlier we had just completed a full service on it, new filters, complete oil flush, refill. There were no indications in the pan or the oil of any problems. I asked some questions. He said: when he started the truck it idled really low and really rough. The lights were dim and flickering. Once he revved it a bit then everything went to normal, except for alarm bells and lights in the dash. His friend had a tuner and read the codes. Indicated a bunch of TCM codes, similar to what you have listed. I looked him straight in the eye and said: "you left the lights on while you were at the game didn't you?" He sheepishly said maybe - probably. So while the truck did start, the battery was drawn down and it caused the truck to throw a hissy fit. I disconnected the negative battery terminal from the truck and put the charger on it overnight. The next morning load tested the battery then reconnected the fully charged battery to the truck. Started the truck, everything normal. That was 6 months ago. Never any issues since. Truck runs fine, been towing trailers around with it too.
The quality and health of the battery in these trucks is alot more critical than people first think. The battery does alot more than spin the engine starter. The first thing to check whenever you get codes is ensure that all of the computer modules in your truck are getting stable clean power ... which all comes from the battery. If you ever have a low battery or had to boost the truck or have a weak one, you can expect to start getting weird codes and issues (computer glitches). Whenever this happens, first thing to do is to fully charge the battery then load test it then replace if necessary with a good quality one.
So there is some background as to why we are pointing you to the battery when your codes are for the transmission. Seems like a superficial recommendation, but it is not.
Hope that helps!
PS: if you are ever leaving the truck parked for more than a couple days. Just take a few moment to lift the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. I keep a single small wrench in the drivers door pocket for this purpose. Takes just moments to disconnect and then reconnect when you get back to it. That saves the slow drain, which over time eventually sulphates and kills batteries, and ... you will never need a boost!
Example story: A few months ago son comes back from hockey game and says the transmission in the truck is toast. I am shocked. A few days earlier we had just completed a full service on it, new filters, complete oil flush, refill. There were no indications in the pan or the oil of any problems. I asked some questions. He said: when he started the truck it idled really low and really rough. The lights were dim and flickering. Once he revved it a bit then everything went to normal, except for alarm bells and lights in the dash. His friend had a tuner and read the codes. Indicated a bunch of TCM codes, similar to what you have listed. I looked him straight in the eye and said: "you left the lights on while you were at the game didn't you?" He sheepishly said maybe - probably. So while the truck did start, the battery was drawn down and it caused the truck to throw a hissy fit. I disconnected the negative battery terminal from the truck and put the charger on it overnight. The next morning load tested the battery then reconnected the fully charged battery to the truck. Started the truck, everything normal. That was 6 months ago. Never any issues since. Truck runs fine, been towing trailers around with it too.
The quality and health of the battery in these trucks is alot more critical than people first think. The battery does alot more than spin the engine starter. The first thing to check whenever you get codes is ensure that all of the computer modules in your truck are getting stable clean power ... which all comes from the battery. If you ever have a low battery or had to boost the truck or have a weak one, you can expect to start getting weird codes and issues (computer glitches). Whenever this happens, first thing to do is to fully charge the battery then load test it then replace if necessary with a good quality one.
So there is some background as to why we are pointing you to the battery when your codes are for the transmission. Seems like a superficial recommendation, but it is not.
Hope that helps!
PS: if you are ever leaving the truck parked for more than a couple days. Just take a few moment to lift the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. I keep a single small wrench in the drivers door pocket for this purpose. Takes just moments to disconnect and then reconnect when you get back to it. That saves the slow drain, which over time eventually sulphates and kills batteries, and ... you will never need a boost!
Last edited by FaceDeAce; Mar 7, 2018 at 12:30 PM.
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My 05 Dakota is throwing P0700 which says Transmission control System malfunction
P0891 TCM power relay sense circuit high
the PCM has been replaced, it has a new battery - how difficult is it to replace the TCM? (it hard shifts while driving, it sometimes acts as if starting in high gear, sometimes have to manually shift to get to drive speed, sometimes works fine...the tranny has lost its mind
P0891 TCM power relay sense circuit high
the PCM has been replaced, it has a new battery - how difficult is it to replace the TCM? (it hard shifts while driving, it sometimes acts as if starting in high gear, sometimes have to manually shift to get to drive speed, sometimes works fine...the tranny has lost its mind
